Wireless Flash help.

Tiberius wrote in post #16068668
It's to correct for colour balance.

Yes t is for correcting colour balance but under what colour situation would blue coloured stofen be needed?

Sometimes it's not about matching, but creating a color contrast. Use CTB if you want to warm the background wrt your subject, CTO if you want to cool the background wrt your subject.

See:
http://www.metrodcphot​ography.com/tutorials/​gels-flashstrobe/

Van Gogh wrote in post #16072628
Yes t is for correcting colour balance but under what colour situation would blue coloured stofen be needed?

If the ambient light was predominately blue (open shade, for example), then you can set your WB to shade and it will come out looking peachy. The camera will be increasing the orangeness of the light a little to correct for the overall blue tint (or you will if you shoot raw).

However, if you add a flash inm there as well, then the WB adjustment will also have its ornageness increased. But because it wasn't blueish to begin with, your flash will look quite orange, making it obviously artificial. So whacking a blue dome on the flash will help to correct that. Keep all the light, both ambient and flash, at the same colour temperature so it all looks natural.

Tiberius wrote in post #16074048
If the ambient light was predominately blue (open shade, for example), then you can set your WB to shade and it will come out looking peachy. The camera will be increasing the orangeness of the light a little to correct for the overall blue tint (or you will if you shoot raw).

However, if you add a flash inm there as well, then the WB adjustment will also have its ornageness increased. But because it wasn't blueish to begin with, your flash will look quite orange, making it obviously artificial. So whacking a blue dome on the flash will help to correct that. Keep all the light, both ambient and flash, at the same colour temperature so it all looks natural.

Ok makes sense, thanks

Tiberius wrote in post #16074048
If the ambient light was predominately blue (open shade, for example), then you can set your WB to shade and it will come out looking peachy. The camera will be increasing the orangeness of the light a little to correct for the overall blue tint (or you will if you shoot raw).

However, if you add a flash inm there as well, then the WB adjustment will also have its ornageness increased. But because it wasn't blueish to begin with, your flash will look quite orange, making it obviously artificial. So whacking a blue dome on the flash will help to correct that. Keep all the light, both ambient and flash, at the same colour temperature so it all looks natural.

Thanks for the article, nice read.

BTW guys I bought some gels recently and understand what CTO gels do perfectly.

But 1 of them is 1/2CTB, goes from 3,200-4,200k.
The other ones are Plus Green (cc30) and Heavy Frost Diffusion.
I don't quiet understand what these gels are for.

The green ones can be used for correcting fluorescent lights.