MUSEUM ART

I got this job photographing art at a museum. Some of the art pieces are framed and cannot be taken out of the glass frame. They bought 2 of the Adorama Monolight Budget Flash 100 Watt. I have never used sync flash before. So my question is this ... What would be the best way to photograph glass framed photos and art?

Google "angle of incidence" - you want to avoid light bouncing back at the lens. Also look at polarizing filters as they cut reflection.

Saw an article recently about cross-polarizing: putting polarizers in front of your light sources, and then a CPL on the lens at a right-angle to the light polarizers. That seemed to cut down basically any and all reflections or glare.

So you got a job doing something you've never done before? How'd you do that? Hiring without experience, interesting.

Good luck with the photo gig Michael - I hope it works out for you.

Another thing you will have to contend with is reflections of yourself/clothing and other objects in the glass of the art being photographed. We are doing this right now at a local arts archives, setting up procedures for our interns. Wear dark clothing as lighter fabric may show in the framed glass. You may also want to consider putting a black backdrop behind you. This will eliminate hard reflections. Our observant photographer also taped out the white camera name and wrapped the metal tripod legs in black cloth.

We decided not to go with electronic flashes due to simplicity, but instead are using daylight balanced fluorescent bulbs in our reflectors with a custom white balance. And with artwork, you want the WB to be as accurate as possible.

Interesting gig. There are some good ideas and thoughts here. I don't think I've ever successfully overpowered the reflective quality of framed glass. I'd be interested in seeing the finished product.

Polarizers and a TS lens.

Fernando wrote in post #16087790
Polarizers and a TS lens.

The polarizers could be beneficial in certain environments - why would you need a Tilt and Shift lens? So far we have not had a glare problem with our current project by angling the two hot lights in a pattern to avoid it.

sapearl wrote in post #16089330
The polarizers could be beneficial in certain environments - why would you need a Tilt and Shift lens? So far we have not had a glare problem with our current project by angling the two hot lights in a pattern to avoid it.

A T/S can come in handy if the art piece is hanging slightly higher than the height of the tripod permits......it will eliminate having to angle the camera upwards and induce perspective distortion.

jra wrote in post #16089572
A T/S can come in handy if the art piece is hanging slightly higher than the height of the tripod permits......it will eliminate having to angle the camera upwards and induce perspective distortion.

True - although in the case of most museums the pieces are usually at "viewing" height. With the art inventory we're currently performing we use an adjustable easel in conjunction with the tripod so we accomplish our adjustments in that fashion.