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Thread started 08 Jul 2013 (Monday) 07:22
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Canon 6D unbalance color problem.....

 
FotoFocus
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Jul 08, 2013 07:22 |  #1

Anyone of facing this problem when taking photo with Canon 6D like below..??
The colors are not balance... anyone know what's wrong? :(

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6D---35mm 2.0---85mm1.8

  
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Fernando
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Jul 08, 2013 07:37 |  #2

Fluorescent lighting if I had to guess.


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NinetyEight
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Jul 08, 2013 07:42 |  #3

Fernando wrote in post #16101177 (external link)
Fluorescent lighting if I had to guess.

^^^^ my guess as well


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sandpiper
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Jul 08, 2013 07:48 as a reply to  @ NinetyEight's post |  #4

Yeah, shooting at 1/320th second the lighting won't have completed a full cycle during the exposure, so colour balance will vary depending on the part of the cycle you capture. You need to use slower speeds to catch the whole cycle to reduce such problems.




  
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PGD
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Jul 08, 2013 08:06 |  #5

Lighting cycle - every day's a school day :)


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FotoFocus
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Jul 08, 2013 08:34 |  #6

sandpiper wrote in post #16101199 (external link)
Yeah, shooting at 1/320th second the lighting won't have completed a full cycle during the exposure, so colour balance will vary depending on the part of the cycle you capture. You need to use slower speeds to catch the whole cycle to reduce such problems.

any other ways to over come this? :cry:


6D---35mm 2.0---85mm1.8

  
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sandpiper
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Jul 08, 2013 08:44 |  #7

FotoFocus wrote in post #16101310 (external link)
any other ways to over come this? :cry:

Only by using some other form of lighting. You can't alter the laws of physics.




  
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SkipD
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Jul 08, 2013 08:44 |  #8

FotoFocus wrote in post #16101310 (external link)
any other ways to over come this? :cry:

Other than using your own lighting to completely overpower the fluorescent lighting, shutter speed control is the only solution.

There are very specific shutter speeds that will provide reliable exposures and colors with fluorescent lighting (which is operated at power-line frequency) and these depend on the power line frequency (50Hz or 60Hz normally).


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FotoFocus
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Jul 08, 2013 09:19 |  #9

SkipD wrote in post #16101334 (external link)
Other than using your own lighting to completely overpower the fluorescent lighting, shutter speed control is the only solution.

There are very specific shutter speeds that will provide reliable exposures and colors with fluorescent lighting (which is operated at power-line frequency) and these depend on the power line frequency (50Hz or 60Hz normally).

ic...anyway, thanks for the feedback! appreciate that. ;)


6D---35mm 2.0---85mm1.8

  
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John ­ from ­ PA
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Jul 08, 2013 14:22 |  #10

Check the thread at https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?p=790596, especially the initial post which clearly outlines the limitations for FL photography.




  
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ElectronGuru
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Jul 09, 2013 11:57 |  #11

This reminds me of when I first got into digital. With film you had to shoot outdoors or with a flash. Film was calibrated for these two environments and everything else was impossible so you rarely even bothered. Then along comes the ability to shoot anywhere with available light and suddenly a whole new set of problems comes with it. All part of the fun of photography!


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sandpiper
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Jul 09, 2013 18:29 |  #12

ElectronGuru wrote in post #16105013 (external link)
This reminds me of when I first got into digital. With film you had to shoot outdoors or with a flash. Film was calibrated for these two environments and everything else was impossible so you rarely even bothered. Then along comes the ability to shoot anywhere with available light and suddenly a whole new set of problems comes with it. All part of the fun of photography!

What ??

You could easily buy tungsten balanced film for shooting in artificial light (i.e. regular household lightbulbs etc.), and conversion filters were available for dealing with other oddball lighting situations such as fluorescents.

And, of course, there was always black and white film where colour balance has little relevance.

You certainly didn't have to restrict yourself to shooting outdoors or with flash. Heck, even in daylight you often needed to select a film to balance with the light at the time, or adjust with a colour filter. For instance Ektachrome / Kodachrome was neutral in good sunlight, but had a blue cast in overcast conditions, while Fujichromes were neutral in overcast light and had a warm cast in good sunlight.

As neutral or warm is often a better option than neutral or cold, in changing conditions, Kodak brought out the "gold" range of films that had a warmer tone to match that of Fuji films.

Having to white balance is nothing new, it is much easier now though, and doesn't involve slapping coloured filters on the lens or changing film each time the light changes, you now just need to push a button or two, or do it in editing.

Shooting in artificial light was far from "impossible" as you claim.




  
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Canon 6D unbalance color problem.....
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