GKPE: General Ramblings thread

akiwi wrote in post #3054415
I agree that it can help to know. Particularly for action shots.

I like the star trails shot, particularly as there is just sufficient detail to give the foreground interest. But aren't the arcs wrong?!

CliveyBoy wrote in post #3054467
I like the star trails shot, particularly as there is just sufficient detail to give the foreground interest. But aren't the arcs wrong?!

He probably used 1st curtain sync instead of 2nd curtain sync on the flash.

somethingsimple wrote in post #3052169
LOL only my modest 350d, kit 18-55mm zoom and auto P mode, backlit with daylight (have to be quick with her cos shes a feral kitten we have tamed, and shes not too sure about anything yet)

Kit lens? Makes sense...... kit....cat.....

klippe wrote in post #3054453
Peter, I've never shot in the snow before. How difficult is it to get the balance right between the snow/trees/sky? Any particular tricks (ND grad filters etc), or do you just keep changing exposures (or through bracketing) to get the shot you want?

By the way I love the creek winding away from you in that shot, neat composition. The fact that it starts at the corner of the frame works for me.

Cliff

Yes, snow can cause problems, but I tend to over expose by between 2/3 and 1 stop. The problem is that if you don't over expose snow, the camera exposes it to a lovely neutral grey.

I took the shot along with many others that I am very happy with, one evening. I borrowed a set of snow shows (Never used them before). And went off walking and photographing for about 2 hours after the ski area had closed.

CliveyBoy wrote in post #3054467
I like the star trails shot, particularly as there is just sufficient detail to give the foreground interest. But aren't the arcs wrong?!

??

NordieBoy wrote in post #3054526
He probably used 1st curtain sync instead of 2nd curtain sync on the flash.

Noooo. it was second curtain. I guess the 580 is pretty powerfull isn't it.

akiwi wrote in post #3054555
Yes, snow can cause problems, but I tend to over expose by between 2/3 and 1 stop. The problem is that if you don't over expose snow, the camera exposes it to a lovely neutral grey.

I took the shot along with many others that I am very happy with, one evening. I borrowed a set of snow shows (Never used them before). And went off walking and photographing for about 2 hours after the ski area had closed.


??

Noooo. it was second curtain. I guess the 580 is pretty powerfull isn't it.

Thanks for the info Peter.

By the way, I just can't figure out how to keep my 580 going for 15 mins - - you must be using those new titanium batteries from energizer......No wonder my fireworks images come out crap - my flash didn't fire for long enough. Tee Hehe. (that's my not quite over-the-top laugh).

Cliff

klippe wrote in post #3054570
Thanks for the info Peter.

By the way, I just can't figure out how to keep my 580 going for 15 mins - - you must be using those new titanium batteries from energizer......No wonder my fireworks images come out crap - my flash didn't fire for long enough. Tee Hehe. (that's my not quite over-the-top laugh).

Cliff

Actually it was over 30 minutes.

Great shots Peter - I'm a sucker for star trails. You must have a decent tripod?

Any tips for that sort of shot? Mirror lock-up?

CliveyBoy wrote in post #3054467
I like the star trails shot, particularly as there is just sufficient detail to give the foreground interest. But aren't the arcs wrong?!

HOW can star arcs be WRONG?

klippe wrote in post #3054570
Thanks for the info Peter.

By the way, I just can't figure out how to keep my 580 going for 15 mins - - you must be using those new titanium batteries from energizer......No wonder my fireworks images come out crap - my flash didn't fire for long enough. Tee Hehe. (that's my not quite over-the-top laugh).

Cliff

i can give you some tips for shooting fireworks with a flash
first of all, use a really long off-camera shoe cord, or long-range remote sensor
then, set your camera up on a tripod, on a timer, and run into the middle distance holding the flash
when the shutter fires (you can watch the little red flashing light on the body) immediately leap into the air just as the flash goes off and disintegrate yourself into thousands of little glowing pieces. MAKE SURE the flash head is pointing at the camera! otherwise the shot will be wasted

repeat for every shot.

nb: slave flashes can be used for multiple bursts in a single frame, you will either need long sticks to hold them, or some assistants

hope this helps! i know it made my fireworks shots memorable...

DiscoLizard wrote in post #3054617
Great shots Peter - I'm a sucker for star trails. You must have a decent tripod?

Any tips for that sort of shot? Mirror lock-up?

Tripod is a Manfrotto 190 Pro with a ball head.
I used a cable release and used mirror lockup.
Also important is to use a fresh battery, as long exposures drain your battery fast. The cold doesn't help either.

[QUOTE=akiwi;3054555]Y​es, snow can cause problems, but I tend to over expose by between 2/3 and 1 stop. The problem is that if you don't over expose snow, the camera exposes it to a lovely neutral grey.

I took the shot along with many others that I am very happy with, one evening. I borrowed a set of snow shows (Never used them before). And went off walking and photographing for about 2 hours after the ski area had closed.
[QUOTE]

heres a really useful tip for shooting snow so that you get that lovely cold icy blue but dont lose any scene detail:

http://www.corporatefi​neart.com …ineart/article.​asp?ID=238

not to criticise your snow shot: i think you did very nicely

[QUOTE=somethingsimple​;3054652][QUOTE=akiwi;​3054555]Yes, snow can cause problems, but I tend to over expose by between 2/3 and 1 stop. The problem is that if you don't over expose snow, the camera exposes it to a lovely neutral grey.

I took the shot along with many others that I am very happy with, one evening. I borrowed a set of snow shows (Never used them before). And went off walking and photographing for about 2 hours after the ski area had closed.

heres a really useful tip for shooting snow so that you get that lovely cold icy blue but dont lose any scene detail:

http://www.corporatefi​neart.com …ineart/article.​asp?ID=238

not to criticise your snow shot: i think you did very nicely

Good tips. I use that trick with the sky sometimes, but tend to end up with over exposed snow.
I have a grey card in my camera bag, But am too lazy or stoopid to use it

somethingsimple wrote in post #3054641
i can give you some tips for shooting fireworks with a flash
first of all, use a really long off-camera shoe cord, or long-range remote sensor
then, set your camera up on a tripod, on a timer, and run into the middle distance holding the flash
when the shutter fires (you can watch the little red flashing light on the body) immediately leap into the air just as the flash goes off and disintegrate yourself into thousands of little glowing pieces. MAKE SURE the flash head is pointing at the camera! otherwise the shot will be wasted

repeat for every shot.

nb: slave flashes can be used for multiple bursts in a single frame, you will either need long sticks to hold them, or some assistants

hope this helps! i know it made my fireworks shots memorable...

Damn it! Now why didn't I think of that?

It's funny, I was speaking to an astronomer the other day, he says that on their open night, they constantly get people shooting star constellations with flashes. I knew I had to be missing something.....it is clear to me after reading your post that they obviously have several mates positioned all over Auckland with slave flashes..... Or they've borrowed Peter's super-grunty 30 min 580ex with super-duper long range capability.

My night photography has just hit the peak I was attempting to reach! Armed with this new knowledge, nothing will be impossible.

Cliff

akiwi wrote in post #3054555
??

Noooo. it was second curtain. I guess the 580 is pretty powerfull isn't it.

I am accustomed to seeing star arcs as convex, not concave, but i have probably only tried one aspect. I am intrigued by the circumstances required to obtain a convex path relative to the camera.

CliveyBoy wrote in post #3054892
I am accustomed to seeing star arcs as convex, not concave, but i have probably only tried one aspect. I am intrigued by the circumstances required to obtain a convex path relative to the camera.

Remember I am on the other side of the world.
Look at the picture upside down!

To the right of me was the north star, but there isn't such a nice mountain range below that, and I was photographing out my door, so I didn't have that in the picture.
Anyway If I had that in the picture, the stars would be rotating around it.

CliveyBoy wrote in post #3054892
I am accustomed to seeing star arcs as convex, not concave, but i have probably only tried one aspect. I am intrigued by the circumstances required to obtain a convex path relative to the camera.

now ya got me trying to figure out which one is which again