cololeo wrote in post #16139167
See my post on the first page. The camera is pointed directly into the light. 90 degrees is the optimal for getting rid of the primary reflections.
If you take one of the sheets and turn it backwards, the effect is gone. I have all of mine marked top and bottom. I have one mounted on an 8x10 frame for convenience. It makes it easy to hang on a light source. Couple of screws and rubber bands.
It is actually possible to light a subject with absolutely no reflections from the original light source. I don't have any handy but I'll put a few together. Give me a week as we are heading out on a camping trip.
Thanks for the input and effort!
PacAce wrote in post #16139406
Sorry for being late to the party, Ralph. I've used polirizing filters on lights & cemera and it works really well....on art work. But you're not going to like using them for portraits to get rid of eye glasses glare. Why? Because they get rid of speculate highlights as well, as you fear!!! And the image will look very unnatural.
Your best bet for getting rid of eye glasses glare is to position the subject's head to minimize or eliminate glare.
Hi Leo
I pretty much ruled out the idea for using the polarizing with the main, but thought maybe it could work with the fill because the fill shouldn't have speculars anyway. Problem is the light needs to be to far off axis, making the fill to directional.
Whortleberry wrote in post #16139450
It's certainly possible to avoid reflections by careful light positioning, but it kinda kills any spontaneity in the session. One thing which I've done in the past is to raise the earpiece of the frames about ¼ inch off the top of the ear, effectively tilting the spectacles down just enough to minimise reflections. Still totally dependant on the subject's head movements though.
Thanks for your thoughts.
I think any image/session/pose/composition is going to be a compromise. I've been able to come up with no glass glare light scenarios with regard to key light. The closer to on axis, the smaller the modifier needs to be to allow the light to be low enough for less drama.
The problem with the fill, if needed, is that a small fill source can be kept low, therefore minimizing the neck shadow, but it also casts sharper shadows from the rim and arms of the glasses.
I've come up with a solution that should work for me. I use fill over camera that is only large enough to keep the frame shadow knocked down and high enough to keep the glare off the glasses.
The last thing depends on whether I want to shoot a low, medium or high key image. Medium to high key may want the neck shadow filled, for that I have the subject a wear light, neutral colored top.
I've found that with the lighting I've come up with, the glass glare isn't an issue as long as the subject keeps the nose and chin below a certain point. If the they lift up higher, you get an up the nose shot anyway. We'll see how this works in the field.
Anyways, you guys are pro's, I'm just a guy enjoying trying to solve lighting problems. Thank God I have my trusty Mannequin, Ann Margret, to help
The first image has no fill. The second two have a gridded 27" Eli SB over camera. I raised the fill source after the second image was taken.
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