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Thread started 23 Jan 2006 (Monday) 23:12
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Paint Shop Pro users - Help me with this USM thing.

 
Curtis ­ N
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Jan 23, 2006 23:12 |  #1

Sharpening tutorials are easy enough to find, but they all seem to be written for Photoshop. Paint Shop Pro has a similar, but somehow different set of unsharp mask parameters, and I'm having trouble with the translation.

I'm trying to figure out the best USM settings for sharpening images after resizing for my web galleries.

Here is the resized image, unsharpened. Paint Shop Pro users, feel free to apply USM and repost, but please tell me what settings you used.

IMAGE: http://performancephoto.us/images/POTN/DS18.jpg

Here is my attempt with Paint Shop Pro. Radius 0.5, Strength 250, Clipping 3. I think it's a definite improvement, but I don't like the jagged edges I get with diagonal lines.
IMAGE: http://performancephoto.us/images/POTN/DS18sharp.jpg

I appreciate the input of anyone who can take a stab at it.

"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
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pxl8
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Jan 24, 2006 04:36 |  #2

Try radius 1, strength 50, clipping 5 as a starting point in luminance only mode.


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Curtis ­ N
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Jan 24, 2006 08:21 |  #3

Thanks, PXL8. I'll give it a shot tonight.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
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Scottes
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Jan 24, 2006 09:24 |  #4

From what I remember, PSP -> PS translation is:
Radius = Radius
Strength = Amount
Clipping = Threshold

USM is USM, it's not just PS-only. Almost all of the PS Sharpening Tutorials should apply to PSP after performing the translation, but only is PSP supports the tutorial features. For instance, I don't know if PSP supports the LAB color space - it may now, but now when I used it - so LAB Sharpening would not be possible.

Some stuff just needs to be translated to PSP terms.


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Gord ­ G.
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Jan 24, 2006 16:15 |  #5

Hi Curtis

Hope you don't mind, this is what I came up with. Used Radius 1, Strength 195 & Clipping 6


Canon 20D
Lenses: 24-105mm f4 L, 70–210mm USM f3.5–4.5, Sigma: 18–50 f2.8 EX
Flash: Speedlite 550EX & Speedlite 420EX Tripod: Manfrotto
A few of my photos at PBase: http://www.pbase.com/g​orsha (external link)

  
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Curtis ­ N
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Jan 24, 2006 16:30 |  #6

Thanks, Gord.
No, I don't mind, that's exactly what I asked for!
Whether your version is better than mine, I don't know. Maybe depends on the monitor. The jagged diagonals seem more noticeable on my LCD at work than on my CRT at home.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
Chicago area POTN events (external link)
Flash Photography 101 | The EOS Flash Bible  (external link)| Techniques for Better On-Camera Flash (external link) | How to Use Flash Outdoors| Excel-based DOF Calculator (external link)

  
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Gord ­ G.
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Jan 24, 2006 17:14 as a reply to  @ Curtis N's post |  #7

Hi Curtis

I am sorry, forgot to say that I INCREASE DEFINITION with the presets inthe program, and then cut back to the 1, 195 &6. Do not know for sure but I think LCD are not as good as a CRT for photos. Hope this helped.


Canon 20D
Lenses: 24-105mm f4 L, 70–210mm USM f3.5–4.5, Sigma: 18–50 f2.8 EX
Flash: Speedlite 550EX & Speedlite 420EX Tripod: Manfrotto
A few of my photos at PBase: http://www.pbase.com/g​orsha (external link)

  
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Curtis ­ N
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Jan 24, 2006 18:28 as a reply to  @ Scottes's post |  #8

Scottes wrote:
From what I remember, PSP -> PS translation is:
Radius = Radius
Strength = Amount
Clipping = Threshold

I would like to make sure the scales are the same, though. With PSP, radius has a range of 0.01-100, strength goes from 1-500, and clipping goes from 0-100.

I want to have this clarified, because in your tutorial, you use a radius of 0.3 and amount of 400. In the image, it looks like the amount slider is nearly all the way to the right at 400. Also, when I use a radius of 0.3 with PSP, I can't seem to see any difference at all. At 0.4 it's barely visible, and at 0.5 it's noticeable.

Gord G. wrote:
I INCREASE DEFINITION with the presets inthe program

I can't find that option with PSP 8. Maybe you have a newer version, or maybe I'm just missing it.

I think LCD are not as good as a CRT for photos.

In general, you're correct. But I'm creating web galleries which will be viewed on all kinds of monitors, and LCDs are becoming more popular. It's hard to find many CRTs in the stores nowadays.


"If you're not having fun, your pictures will reflect that." - Joe McNally
Chicago area POTN events (external link)
Flash Photography 101 | The EOS Flash Bible  (external link)| Techniques for Better On-Camera Flash (external link) | How to Use Flash Outdoors| Excel-based DOF Calculator (external link)

  
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Gord ­ G.
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Jan 25, 2006 11:38 as a reply to  @ Curtis N's post |  #9

Curtis-- I use Paint Shop Pro 10. Guess they added an extra bell to #10. The preset ajustment is in the drop down ajustment folder. I click the sharpness and then down to unsharp mask, drop down the presets and pick one. Just looked at my PSP 8 your right, it does not have the extra bell. You are also correct, hard to find CRT's in stores mostly thin flat monitors.


Canon 20D
Lenses: 24-105mm f4 L, 70–210mm USM f3.5–4.5, Sigma: 18–50 f2.8 EX
Flash: Speedlite 550EX & Speedlite 420EX Tripod: Manfrotto
A few of my photos at PBase: http://www.pbase.com/g​orsha (external link)

  
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Paint Shop Pro users - Help me with this USM thing.
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