using a 135L, getting it really sharp

I just picked up an 135L, while i love the look, im having trouble getting it really sharp.

Now i now i need to keep my shutters up and i i know shoot at 2.0 is very hard. but it just seemed that even shooting my subjects, full body shots at shutters of 200-250, they still weren't crisp. Even when shooting closeup i found it tough to shoot crisp shots when wide open. I dont usually have this issue with my 50 or 85 so i was shocked at the amount of throwaways i had with the 135.

I know it isn't a MA issue or a lens problem as i nailed it perfectly on some and the are tack sharp, so its me.

I guess im looking for tips as the full body shots at f/2 have that dreamy feel and look and the subject pops off the background, but when i didn't expect to see it so soft, maybe my expectation are too high for a full body shot and i should not pixel peep. but even the 3/4 and 1/2 body shots were a bit soft.

Having trouble getting 135L shots sharp? wha? Maybe you are expecting a bit too much, the 135 is a seriously sharp lens at f/2, and downright scary from 2.8 on.

I'm not entirely sure what your criteria of sharpness is (maybe show a 100% compare between this shot and another that you do think is sharp?), but if you want a full-body shot like that to also hold anywhere as much detail as a torso portrait, you may want to look into medium format instead; Try out a Pentax 645D with some nice lenses perhaps...

Then again it may be something with your lens since I don't believe that it could have problems where your 50 & 85 do not.

the lens is sharp, i have some head shots they clearly prove this point. Its clearly my technique, its the time using such a long telephoto for portraits and i was wildy inconsistent with it.

these prove its sharp, if you can tell at 800pixels

Are you using focus and recompose?

Well, considering the narrow DOF, even swaying back and forth is enough to knock the focus off. You might want to try using servo AF even when shooting "still" subjects, because the focus might change at the moment of exposure.

no focus and recompose, i compose and then pick my focus point.

AI servo is an interesting idea. i wonder if i should start using my monopod more, im not as young and stable as i used to be.

Check out this thread to "evaluate" overall sharpness:

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=857871

mike_311 wrote in post #16166405
no focus and recompose, i compose and then pick my focus point.

There is some angst over using the non-center points on a 5D2...

https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1055389

mike_311 wrote in post #16166405
no focus and recompose, i compose and then pick my focus point.

AI servo is an interesting idea. i wonder if i should start using my monopod more, im not as young and stable as i used to be.

Using wide apertures is definitely a challenge, since the focal plane and depth of field can shift with just a little movement. Using a monopod or tripod and keeping your eye glued to the viewfinder and adjusting for little changes can make a real difference.

Additionally, I use back button focus, which puts focus duties on the AF-on button, this makes it much easier to manage focus and hold the camera steady.

To turn it on go to custom function menu -> C.FnIV:Operation/Other​s -> and set the first tab (shutter button/AF-ON to #3 (Metering start/Meter + AF start)

This makes the shutter half-press only do metering.

Good advice above. Try it with your monopod or, even better, with a tripod (if available) and see whether that makes a significant difference. If it does, you know the lens is not at fault.

Try using microadjust after checking with dot-tune... Do this method outdoors though, as doing in inside can skew the results a bit depending on type of lighting. My 135L needs -4 and is very sharp.