Trigger and Modifiers for Einstein

I shoot barrel racing indoors with my Einsteins, I consistently stop action shooting manual with a shutter speed of 1/200th in the Einsteins Action mode. They work very well for me.

If you use a good leaf shutter P&S like the Panasonic LX7, Canon G12, X-100s, etc. you can sync up to 1/1000sec to control ambient so the Einstein is more useful.

For PW's Hypersync outdoors w/ a DSLR (you can't control ambient), you're better off w/ slower strobes like the AB1600 or even old warhorses like Speedotron pack/head systems.

butterfly2937 wrote in post #16212673
The best option using studio strobes seems to be ND and a short flash duration within the cameras sync speed. The Einsteins excel in this situation because of the short flash durations they can achieve.

If sync speed is fast enough, want faster shutter speed

DamianOz wrote in post #16213000
If sync speed is fast enough, want faster shutter speed

Huh? People have stopped bullets in flight with flash duration, it doesnt just have to be about shutter speed. If you want ambient control via shutter speed consider an ND filter. It might help if you explained the goal you want to accomplish, not your proposed means of getting there.

Exactly, we should know, what are you trying to shoot when you get camera and subject blur using ambient plus fill flash at 1/180th and 1/200th?

I want to shoot moving subjects, shallow DOF, exposed for bright sky and late afternoon to sunset.
ND will allow me to expose ambient for wider aperatures and slower shutter speeds, but 1/180 and 1/200 (6D and 5D3 sync speeds) is often not fast enough. The flash is used for fill, a fast flash will help but abient still contributes to exposure time, which can only be controlled by shutter speed.
An example: a long hair girl with flowing dress, skipping and twirling, on a open grass field with the afternoon sun adding colour to a lightly scattered cloud sky. I would shoot this hand held with 135mm wide aperature (which it self really needs faster than 1/200 to ensure I elliminate camera shake).

DamianOz wrote in post #16214545
I want to shoot moving subjects, shallow DOF, exposed for bright sky and late afternoon to sunset.
ND will allow me to expose ambient for wider aperatures and slower shutter speeds, but 1/180 and 1/200 (6D and 5D3 sync speeds) is often not fast enough. The flash is used for fill, a fast flash will help but abient still contributes to exposure time, which can only be controlled by shutter speed.
An example: a long hair girl with flowing dress, skipping and twirling, on a open grass field with the afternoon sun adding colour to a lightly scattered cloud sky. I would shoot this hand held with 135mm wide aperature (which it self really needs faster than 1/200 to ensure I elliminate camera shake).

If you want to eliminate camera shake, you can always put it on a tripod or get a lens with IS.

If you need to use flash work shutter speeds faster than x-sync, I'm thinking maybe a camera with an electronic shutter. The Canon 1D and Nikon D70 go to 1/500s I believe. Slower than the options kenyee offered, but better cameras.

I have pocket wizards and the einstein, definitely not optimal for hypersync. During outdoor shoots you could frame from the black band but it's still not ideal. I have tried and tried the different settings and on my 60D I can only hit 400 without banding. I mean that is an extra stop but I plan on simply buying an ND filter for what I do instead of messing around with HS.

edit: you know I haven't tried since the latest firmware update, I will give that a go and post results but it may be a couple days.

edit 2: never mind, here is some test that were already done.

5dMiii +Einstein HS tests

and tests for a crop (7D)

7D + Einstein HS tests

DamianOz wrote in post #16214545
I want to shoot moving subjects, shallow DOF, exposed for bright sky and late afternoon to sunset.
ND will allow me to expose ambient for wider aperatures and slower shutter speeds, but 1/180 and 1/200 (6D and 5D3 sync speeds) is often not fast enough. The flash is used for fill, a fast flash will help but abient still contributes to exposure time, which can only be controlled by shutter speed.
An example: a long hair girl with flowing dress, skipping and twirling, on a open grass field with the afternoon sun adding colour to a lightly scattered cloud sky. I would shoot this hand held with 135mm wide aperature (which it self really needs faster than 1/200 to ensure I elliminate camera shake).

Probably about 6 or more Canon speedlites. Syl Arena has a book where he make images of his son swinging a bat and busting up pumpkins. He used quite a few canon speedlites mounted together on a rod or something.

Here's the Canon Speedliters Handbook. It has the photo on the cover. Check it out.

I went through and reset everything and configured for HS on my flex5 and mc2. I am surprised (and happy to say) that my results were extremely consistent with those demonstrated in my link above. A slight gradient at 1000 (vs black bar eating 1/4 the frame) is not too bad. At 500 it is perfectly usable, not a lot of gain but anything is better than nothing.

DamianOz wrote in post #16214545
I want to shoot moving subjects, shallow DOF, exposed for bright sky and late afternoon to sunset.
ND will allow me to expose ambient for wider aperatures and slower shutter speeds, but 1/180 and 1/200 (6D and 5D3 sync speeds) is often not fast enough. The flash is used for fill, a fast flash will help but abient still contributes to exposure time, which can only be controlled by shutter speed.
An example: a long hair girl with flowing dress, skipping and twirling, on a open grass field with the afternoon sun adding colour to a lightly scattered cloud sky. I would shoot this hand held with 135mm wide aperature (which it self really needs faster than 1/200 to ensure I elliminate camera shake).

The key here is "flash is used for fill" in that situation there is no way that you can expect the flash to stop action. It is completely reliant on the shutter speed since the ambient light is the primary light source. You will have to figure out how to get a shutter speed up in the thousands for ambient exposure then get a strobe or speedlite for fill. If you can get them close enough one or two speedlites in HSS may be enough. Another option is an FP-sync capable hybrid strobe like the Cheetah Light CL-300. The Einstein can only play in this game at full power. Other monolights with voltage control power circuits may work in hyper sync, again its the shutter that is doing all the action stopping.

The short duration of a strobe will have no impact on stopping the action until it becomes the primary light source and ambient is under exposed sufficiently to become a non-factor.

Are you talking about something like this?

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aliengin wrote in post #16217485
Are you talking about something like this?

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Great example.
One consideration with that shot is that it looks like the camera was on a vehicle moving at about the same speed as the cyclists. thus, the relative motion is very slight and a slower shutter speed would still render them sharp with a blurred background since it is moving faster relative to the camera.

David has the right idea, I was actually reading about the CL-300, looks promising, shame the HSS and remote aren't in the same package and no ETTL.

Allen, your shot is well executed for that scene, but its not what I'm wanting. I'm wanting faster shutter speed.

Damian,
The remote power control makes getting the power setting a snap. The FP-sync capability (H mode) along with the relatively long flash duration at full power provide a wide range of power available at any shutter speed up to the camera max.

The IGBT power control provides shorter flash durations as power is reduced with shutter below x-sync so you have both options available.

When using the Cells-IIc trigger I use the CL-Tx as a remote power controller. Actually easier than having the CL-Tx on the camera.

Here is an outtake from a test shoot. The shutter speed was 1/4000, F1.4, ISO100. Might be hard to see for sure here, but her hair, feet, and arms are not motion blurred. The shallow DoF with the 85mm lens offered its own challenge. I think this is the kind of lighting scheme you are looking to achieve. This was shot about noon on a sunny day. As you can see, the CL-300 was filling in the shadows while some sun was hitting the subject as well. My recollection is that the CL-300 was in an umbrella soft box and less than full power.