The longer the focal length of the lens, the more tubes you could add and still focus (manually). However, you'd better have very strong, rigid tubes or risk having the camera or lens (depending on where the tripod mount is) fall when that long stack of tubes snaps from the weight at the end of it.
Your main problem will be the decreasing aperture; if you add tubes equal to the focal length to any lens it'll cost you two stops, and get pretty dim. Where it gets tricky is where the lens is internal-focusing (like the 100 macro), which actually changes effective focal length as you focus closer. IIRC, at 1:1, it's really about a 70 mm lens (and at around f/5.6).
I've used my full stack of Kenko tubes (12, 20 and 36 mm) on my 300 f/2.8 and 500 f/4 with no particular problem, although adding a TC to the stack does make AF problematic. The 100-400 would probably handle 40-50 mm of tubes with no AF problems.
If you want to figure the numbers, figure the physical aperture is fl (focal length)/f-stop. Take that number and divide the (fl+tube length) by that physical aperture value to get the effective f-stop. If it gets much past f/6.3 (f/9.6 if you've got the latest firmware on your Mk III), you'll lose AF.