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Thread started 06 Sep 2013 (Friday) 04:10
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Extension tubes on a 500 f4

 
NeilB0147
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Sep 06, 2013 04:10 |  #1

Anyone tried this to reduce the MFD ?
I like to get the odd dragonfly/butterfly when i'm out shooting birds but sometimes they are just a little to close.




  
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Larry ­ Weinman
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Sep 06, 2013 08:15 |  #2

It depends on how much reduction you want. They work on a long lens but keep in mind that there will be light loss and the reduction in MFD won't be huge.


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mkkaczy
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Sep 06, 2013 10:30 |  #3

Canon EF12 II Extension Tube let me decrease the MFL on 400mm f/5.6 from 3.5m to around 3m.


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amfoto1
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Sep 06, 2013 10:49 |  #4

Yes, you can use extension tubes on the 500mm. I did for this shot...

IMAGE: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6073/6144666248_5659d5c44d_o.jpg

This was done with a 36mm extension tube (Kenko), to get a little shorter MFD and fill the viewfinder with the thumb-sized Bush Tit.

Due to the long focal length of the lens it takes a lot of extension to make very much difference. The Kenko set comes with three tubes (12mm, 20mm and 36mm).... You can stack two or all of them and get a wee bit closer focus. But I always try to use as few tubes as possible. Each additional tube slows AF or can increase chances of AF hunting, due to the additional electronic connections.

For a heavy lens and heavy camera, I'd stick with either the Canon or Kenko tubes, both of which are pretty solidly made of metal. Most other extension tubes that support AF and aperture control are at least partically plastic and don't have as sturdy latching mechanisms.

There is a longer macro helicoid that's recently become available. I haven't used it yet. This is a variable extension tube that can be adjusted from 43mm to 68mm. Just based on the price, I suspect it's largely plastic, too. It was available several places in the US until recently, but I no longer see it on those websites. Here's an auction for it, from China: http://www.ebay.com …mm-fr-Canon-/220641990459 (external link)

Alan Myers (external link) "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
5DII, 7DII, 7D, M5 & others. 10-22mm, Meike 12/2.8,Tokina 12-24/4, 20/2.8, EF-M 22/2, TS 24/3.5L, 24-70/2.8L, 28/1.8, 28-135 IS (x2), TS 45/2.8, 50/1.4, Sigma 56/1.4, Tamron 60/2.0, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8 IS, 85/1.8, Tamron 90/2.5, 100/2.8 USM, 100-400L II, 135/2L, 180/3.5L, 300/4L IS, 300/2.8L IS, 500/4L IS, EF 1.4X II, EF 2X II. Flashes, strobes & various access. - FLICKR (external link)

  
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NeilB0147
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Sep 06, 2013 10:54 as a reply to  @ mkkaczy's post |  #5

I picked a set up cheap so will give them a go, thanks for the help.




  
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amfoto1
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Sep 06, 2013 12:05 |  #6

NeilB0147 wrote in post #16273211 (external link)
I picked a set up cheap so will give them a go, thanks for the help.

I just hope they aren't too cheap...

A lot of the cheap ones are plastic and I wouldn't trust them on a big, heavy and expensive lens. Examples: Zeikos, Rokinon, Samyang, Polaroid, Vivitar, Bower, Rainbowstudio, Cowboystudio, Meike, Fotodiox, PLR, Xit, etc. The same ones show up under a bunch of different brand names and they sell for about $50 US (really plasticky, even the bayonet mounts) to under $75-100 US (plastic tubes with metal bayonet mounts). All those sets have rather odd size tubes: 13mm, 21mm, 31mm. Opteka now sell a similar quality set for a bit less than $100 US, that has more traditional length tubes, same as the Kenko: 12mm, 20mm, 36mm.

The ridiculously cheap ones ($25 to under $10 US) show up under some ot the same brand names and more, in various combinations of lengths, but don't have any electronic contacts so you lose both autofocus and the ability to control the aperture directly from the camera. Loss of autofocus isn't too big a deal, IMO. OTOH, inability to control aperture is a big problem.

With the really cheap ones that lack electronic contacts there's a work-around to change the aperture setting, but it's a real pain in the arse: 1. Put lens on camera without the extension tube. 2. Set the aperture. 3. Use depth of field preview to stop down lens. 4. While holding DOF button engaged, remove the lens, and it should stay stopped down. 5. Install extension tube and then the lens. 6. Focus manually (sorry, the viewfinder will be dimmer since the lens is stopped down) and take the shot. Ooops! Wrong aperture or need to change aperture? Remove lens and extension tube and follow steps 1 through 6 all over again. Repeat any time you want to change the aperture.

Frankly, with a heavy super tele that's worth some thousands of dollars I wouldn't trust any less than the Kenko. Those are available new for $200 US for the set... Or track down a used set for less. The older version marked "CA/AF" is be "EF only", won't work with EF-S lenses but are fine with all EF lenses and should sell at a significant discount now. The current version marked "CA/AFs" is usable with both EF and EF-S lenses.

The Canon tubes are also fine, but are only available individually in 12mm and 25mm lengths, and work out to be rather pricey (around $95 for the 12mm, and about $150 US for the 25mm). If you buy used, Canon tubes "II" are usable with both EF and EF-S lenses. The older version not marked "II" are EF only, which of course would be fine with your 500mm.

I haven't calculated how much effect the various lengths of tubes would have with the 500mm. However, to give you some idea, the lens on it's own will do 0.15X magnification and focus to about 12 feet MFD. With a 25mm extension, it will do about 0.22X and should have an MFD of roughly 8 feet.

Extension tubes are very versatile. After discovering them a few decades ago I've made a point of always having a set handy and over the years have used them with lenses ranging from 20mm to 500mm. The following was done with a 25mm tube on a 70-200/2.8 IS...

IMAGE: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6201/6143768203_0c2819c423_o.jpg

Incidentally, you can do much the same with a teleconverter, or an Extender (as Canon calls them, a bit confusingly). The MFD doesn't change when you add a TC, but the lens' magnification does. The 500/4 works very well with a quality 1.4X TC. Both of these used the 500mm plus Canon 1.4X II, which makes possible 0.21X magnification at 12 feet, though neither of the shots below were anywhere near MFD...

IMAGE: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6084/6143927405_605ee6ba58_b.jpg

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7116/6865952788_9c73545992_b.jpg

The image of the fence lizard below uses both a 1.4X TC and an extension tube (25mm or 20mm, if memory serves) on 300/2.8 IS lens...

IMAGE: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6065/6144318664_46074b2231_b.jpg

One of my favorite lenses for near macro and such is the Canon 300/4 IS... It's both very handholdable and the closest focusing of all of Canon's longer teles. All on its own, it can do 0.24X magnification and has an MFD of about 5 feet. This is slightly cropped, but was shot without any extension tube...

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8180/8004813561_3049812755_b.jpg

In the past one of my favorite near macro lenses was the Tamron SP 500mm f8 "mirror" lens. All on its own, it's capable of focusing to an amazing 5 feet...

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7093/7312425118_06a1b7f84f_c.jpg


I don't have the Tamron any longer, unfortunately. It's discontinued but shows up used fairly often and can easily be adapted for use on Canon. The Tamron is manual focus, though, so probably not nearly as useful with faster moving subjects such as butterflies. The aperture is fixed at f8, though can be "stopped down" with neutral density filters.

Alan Myers (external link) "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
5DII, 7DII, 7D, M5 & others. 10-22mm, Meike 12/2.8,Tokina 12-24/4, 20/2.8, EF-M 22/2, TS 24/3.5L, 24-70/2.8L, 28/1.8, 28-135 IS (x2), TS 45/2.8, 50/1.4, Sigma 56/1.4, Tamron 60/2.0, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8 IS, 85/1.8, Tamron 90/2.5, 100/2.8 USM, 100-400L II, 135/2L, 180/3.5L, 300/4L IS, 300/2.8L IS, 500/4L IS, EF 1.4X II, EF 2X II. Flashes, strobes & various access. - FLICKR (external link)

  
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Extension tubes on a 500 f4
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