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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Motorsports Talk 
Thread started 09 Sep 2013 (Monday) 06:45
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How do I get a sharp FULL image

 
foxbodychris
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Sep 09, 2013 06:45 |  #1

I was looking through the panning photo section and have to ask how do some of you that pan really good able to get the WHOLE car, boat, bike, etc all in focus? I tried shooting go carts this past weekend as well as at the drag strip and had a terrible time getting the whole image I was shooting sharp. So can some of you give me some setup tips on my 7d? Thanks


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Jan ­ Jasinski
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Sep 09, 2013 06:47 |  #2

Practice practice and practice ;)
IS helps a ton as well but it's totally doable without as well.


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Rushmore
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Sep 09, 2013 06:54 |  #3

play with the shutter speeds.. I use around 200th or a second...

for anything slower i'd use a flash set to sync on the 2nd curtain...


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Sep 09, 2013 14:55 as a reply to  @ Rushmore's post |  #4

Don't pan at an angle: if the car is coming towards you or moving away, parts of it will always be blurred, since they're not moving at the same speed. Full on side pan will allow you to get the full car sharp.

Angled pan:

IMAGE: http://www.rallifotod.eu/album426/superkross143.jpg

Sideways pan:
IMAGE: http://www.rallifotod.eu/album414/rinka460.jpg



  
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gonzogolf
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Sep 09, 2013 14:57 |  #5

Tessa wrote in post #16282359 (external link)
Don't pan at an angle: if the car is coming towards you or moving away, parts of it will always be blurred, since they're not moving at the same speed. Full on side pan will allow you to get the full car sharp.

Angled pan:


Sideways pan:

This. Too many people try to pan on a curve so that the vehicle's position changes during the pan on two axis. you can pan sideways, but not if the vehicle is moving away from you, or toward you at the same time.




  
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Sep 09, 2013 15:01 |  #6

foxbodychris wrote in post #16280993 (external link)
I was looking through the panning photo section and have to ask how do some of you that pan really good able to get the WHOLE car, boat, bike, etc all in focus? I tried shooting go carts this past weekend as well as at the drag strip and had a terrible time getting the whole image I was shooting sharp. So can some of you give me some setup tips on my 7d? Thanks

You need to take a large number of panning shots in order to get a few good ones. The slow shutter speeds needed to generate motion blur produce unpredictable results. Only a handful of your images will have motion blur and an acceptably sharp subject. By chance and luck you will have a few decent images. The panning technique is not for those who expect high efficiency from photography,

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Camera Maker: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 5D
Lens: EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM
Image Date: 2013-08-02 17:49:54 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 160.0mm
Aperture: f/13.0
Exposure Time: 0.010 s (1/100)
ISO equiv: 320
Exposure Bias: +0.33 EV
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Camera Maker: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 60D
Lens: 70-300mm
Image Date: 2012-09-07 15:04:30 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 300.0mm
Aperture: f/7.1
Exposure Time: 0.010 s (1/100)
ISO equiv: 100
Exposure Bias: none
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Camera Maker: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 5D
Lens: EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM
Image Date: 2013-08-17 18:13:14 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 100.0mm
Aperture: f/11.0
Exposure Time: 0.017 s (1/60)
ISO equiv: 100
Exposure Bias: +1.00 EV
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
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Also, the slower the shutter speed, the more pronounced the motion blur, which means the fewer "keepers."



  
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Jan ­ Jasinski
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Sep 09, 2013 16:17 |  #7

I took these with my 400 f/5.6L @ 1/125 handheld. Only a couple of many that were good.

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PAN (external link) by Jan Jasinski (external link), on Flickr

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mcrow5
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Sep 09, 2013 19:11 |  #8

practise practise practise!!!!

one thing that i learnt from a motorsports workshop i did was that the front and back of a car never move at the same speed, it may only be a very small difference but that can mean the difference between a sharp shot and not getting one. so try and find a spot on the track that reduces the difference as much as possible.

IMAGE: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3756/9595693895_98bba4ef0f_c.jpg
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IMG_2861 (external link) by mcrow5 (external link), on Flickr

that was shot and 1/25th shutter speed, and you can see the right headlight is not in focus, but the rest of the car is. but slow the shutter speed down to about 1/60th and you can get 2 cars in focus.

IMAGE: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3702/9581846908_71c5eb0a46_c.jpg
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IMG_2433 (external link) by mcrow5 (external link), on Flickr

dont try and use a slow shutter speed at first, try at 1/100 first. this is a nice balance between sharpness and motion blur ive found. if your struggling to get photos in focus make the shutter speed 1/200, if you getting consistent photos in focus, slow it down to 1/80 and keep trying. over time you will get better and better, practise is the best thing that you can do.

the other biggest thing I can suggest is to KEEP THE FOCUS POINT ON THE SAME SPOT during the pan, it will take you a while to get it right, keep trying and dont give up. do not try and frame the shot while taking the photo, pick your zoom level and focus on getting a nice smooth pan.



  
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foxbodychris
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Sep 09, 2013 19:44 |  #9

Thanks for all the help everyone. What are some of your c fn III settings? I think I will give it another try this weekend at the NHRA event. I used to be very good at panning about 4 years ago but I guess being out for so long gets you kinda rusty, lol


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Sep 09, 2013 20:31 |  #10

foxbodychris wrote in post #16283204 (external link)
Thanks for all the help everyone. What are some of your c fn III settings? I think I will give it another try this weekend at the NHRA event. I used to be very good at panning about 4 years ago but I guess being out for so long gets you kinda rusty, lol

Custom functions don't matter. Success at "panning" depends only on the skill of smooth movement and the luck that varies from frame to frame with a slow shutter speed.

Note the examples I posted: two came from a Canon 5D and 70-200mm f/2.8 IS lens and two from a Canon 60D and Tamron 70-300mm optical stabilizer lens. The paths to "panning" success are a photographer's skill and willingness to work, because most of your slow-shutter speed images will be discarded. If you consider the creation of an unusable image as a moral failing, then you'll be eternally frustrated with the slow shutter speed technique. Be prepared to try and try again and experiment before you find your personal sweet spot.




  
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foxbodychris
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Sep 09, 2013 21:42 |  #11

DC Fan wrote in post #16283314 (external link)
Custom functions don't matter. Success at "panning" depends only on the skill of smooth movement and the luck that varies from frame to frame with a slow shutter speed.

Note the examples I posted: two came from a Canon 5D and 70-200mm f/2.8 IS lens and two from a Canon 60D and Tamron 70-300mm optical stabilizer lens. The paths to "panning" success are a photographer's skill and willingness to work, because most of your slow-shutter speed images will be discarded. If you consider the creation of an unusable image as a moral failing, then you'll be eternally frustrated with the slow shutter speed technique. Be prepared to try and try again and experiment before you find your personal sweet spot.

Thanks. I was just curious as to what others had as far as setup is all. What AF they were using etc. I use the single point or single point with expansion. Is spot better?


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Sep 09, 2013 22:55 |  #12

foxbodychris wrote in post #16283204 (external link)
Thanks for all the help everyone. What are some of your c fn III settings? I think I will give it another try this weekend at the NHRA event. I used to be very good at panning about 4 years ago but I guess being out for so long gets you kinda rusty, lol

Sorry I'm too lazy to look for the links again but Google 7D motorsports or birds in flight and you'll get some good advice on settings. There are also some great articles on various Canon official sites explaining the different AF modes and back-button focus.


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Sep 10, 2013 00:53 |  #13

foxbodychris wrote in post #16283519 (external link)
Thanks. I was just curious as to what others had as far as setup is all. What AF they were using etc. I use the single point or single point with expansion. Is spot better?

Focus settings and equipment don't matter. All that counts is a photographer's skill in smoothly tracking a subject and the will to keep working at slower and slower shutter speeds until a frame works.


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Focal Length: 130.0mm
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Camera Maker: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 60D
Lens: 70-200mm
Image Date: 2011-10-08 19:34:37 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 200.0mm
Aperture: f/2.8
Exposure Time: 0.013 s (1/80)
ISO equiv: 1000
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
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Camera Maker: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 60D
Lens: 70-300mm
Image Date: 2011-10-09 11:45:20 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 249.0mm
Aperture: f/20.0
Exposure Time: 0.013 s (1/80)
ISO equiv: 100
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
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Panning examples from a Canon 60D, a camera with a simple and straight-forward autofocus system. The camera was set in AI Servo tracking autofocus. Nothing more complex was needed. Also, note that each image came from a different lens and different distance. Again, success at the slow shutter speed "panning" technique takes skill and work, not equipment or settings.



  
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foxbodychris
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Sep 10, 2013 06:21 |  #14

Here are a few I took last weekend that were keepers, lol

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Sep 10, 2013 07:00 |  #15

yup, will agree this is a skill. however, I personally have had much better luck timing when I hit the shutter to get the shot I want. holding the shutter button down during a pan always seems to end up with one shot that is usable, and the rest get tossed...

picking the 'moment', is much less work... but, takes a lot of practice.

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How do I get a sharp FULL image
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