Advice for flash setup at weddings

I have shot a few friend/family weddings and would like to seek out some new couples as I enjoy it.

The only flash I've used at weddings so far has been either bounced off a ceiling or direct fill-flash when outside on sunny days.
I don't want to use flash much, because I prefer to stay "covert" for 90% of shots (I use 6D as main camera and f2.8 zoom or primes - so there's usually enough light).

BUT - If I'm going to do ask for proper money, I feel I should be more skilled with lighting! The most I've done is set up a couple of umbrellas with PT-04 style triggers for simple corporate portraits and wedding photo booths.

So - I'm looking for advice or links that will give me some inspiration for some "lightweight" lighting at weddings.
Specifically I'd like to know:
1) Will an on-camera softbox (like the Lumiquest Softboxes) improve light quality when I can't bounce it (high ceilings or outside)
2) What kind of lightstands/umbrellas/​softboxes are recommended for off-camera flash, to make setting them up and carrying them around as painless as possible

aaz01 wrote in post #16285164
Specifically I'd like to know:
1) Will an on-camera softbox (like the Lumiquest Softboxes) improve light quality when I can't bounce it (high ceilings or outside)
2) What kind of lightstands/umbrellas/​softboxes are recommended for off-camera flash, to make setting them up and carrying them around as painless as possible

1) Those on-camera softboxes are only slightly larger than your bare flash. If the subject is say 3 feet away, then you'll get a little "softer" lighting. Other then that, they'll just eat your light.
2) I just recently got some Manfrotto 5001b. They're not the most sturdiest things ever, but they're really compact. I use Westcott 43" white, collapsible shoot thru umbrellas.

The on-camera softboxes are too small to be of much use beyond a couple feet. You would be better off with a bounce card style device which can be of more use. As for a portable setup for use at weddings, it depends on how you want to deploy them. For portraits the shoot through umbrella box devices, similar to a softlighter are nice as they a bit more wind resistant than straight shoot through umbrellas. For use at the reception use the extra flash to boost the room light and keep a flash on the camera so basically bounce the supplemental flashes from the corners of the room with no modifiers.

Start reading

https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1315936

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=646469

Are you wanting lighting advice for formals, or creative portraits of the bride/groom?

For formals, the only time I add light is if I have shadow eyes on my subjects. For example, if its an outdoor wedding during mid-day with no access to a large shaded or tree covered area, I will crank up a set of AlienBee 800s. I then shoot these through your basic white umbrella. Using two of the same powered lights, at equal distance, eliminates the need to worry about light falloff and shadows.

Scouting a location for shooting formals a head of time gives me the forewarning of whether I'll need them or not. If so, I have them nearby, as lugging these around is a pain. I would say I need additional light for formals about 40% of the time.

If you are referring to creative portraiture of the bride and groom, I simply use a 580EX flash with a 24" softbox all triggered by a Radiopopper JrX system. The speed of manual power adjustments when using the JrX is the sole reason I use it. I meter for ambient light, and then slightly walk my flash up on the transmitter all in the matter of a minute. In regard to the softbox, 24" doesn't soften the light nearly as much as I would like, but it helps with feathering and hot-spots when in the 3 to 10 ft range. Using a bare flash, you get that spotlight effect, which doesn't look natural at all.

Expect this learning curve to take a year or three, though you can make big gains fast by reading the threads above, one of which I wrote. Read the tangents blog, and the strobist. Also remember weddings aren't for you to practice.

I just did a wedding this past weekend. The bride was very clear that she wanted to be photographed like a model. I showed up about an hour before she arrived and set up the room. I hid an ugly mural on the wall with a 12' x 10' black backdrop. There were tow window that provided great natural light - on directly across form the backdrop and the other to the left facing the backdrop). I set two off SPeedlites (580EXII and 430EX) bouncing from umbrellas (controlled by Phottix radio remotes). I was easily able to move the flashes around to where I needed them, and shut one off when not needed. The blinds were closed a lot because the girls didn't want people peeking in, especially the groom, while they were getting ready. I got some great shots.

The wedding was outside in a gazebo. To avoid shadows I used the 580EXII mounted to a Custom Bracket CB Jr. I avoided using the flash outside as much as possible, but it was necessary in some cases for filling in shadows. Lesson learned - it would have been better to have my helper (= wife) to either a) hold the flash remotely on the opposite side of the sun, or b) hold a reflector to fill in the shadows. I always prefer natural light. We were pressed for time and in a public place, so getting that coordinated was a challenge.

I shot the entire reception with the 580 mounted on the bracket. Some bounced, and other with a Fong Lightsphere or Stofen.

I'd be happy to give you the password to the gallery if you want to see the photos. I figured at this point as a courtesy to the bride I would keep the password on the gallery so she can let me know which ones, if any of those that I uploaded, she doesn't want up there. Later I will make it public.

Some of the pictures are on my homepage in the gallery slide show. www.jmaurophoto.com.

Jim

let me know if you want the password.

For the OP: yes, if you are going to get paid to shoot a wedding, it's best to know all about flash photography before you start. I only shoot available light but, luckily, I always have 6 speedlights available so there's never a problem If you'd like to capture images, a simple on-camera flash will do (when shooting outdoors it's important to use flash so the images appear natural...since our eyes can perceive 16 stops of light at the same time while the best camera can't do more than three or four without flash). However, if you'd like to create images, using off-camera flash makes that much easier (since you won't always have that 'golden hour' to work with during a wedding).