Yongnuo YN-622's?

I'm currently looking to "upgrade" my YN-603's (which work awesome by the way) to an e-TTL trigger system. Ideally I'd go for Pocketwizards but they're pricey so I'm looking for a less expensive option for the time being.

I plan on utilizing the HSS capabilities of the 580EX that I have on the way when needed hence another reason to upgrade. Also looking at a 430EX to compliment. My question is, has everyone had good results with the YN-622's or should I just suck up the cost and go for a Pocketwizard mini/flex combo?

Love them. The only issues I have is when I'm tipping the flash enough there is some contact issues with gravity. (softbox/brolly out on a handheld light stand) I may try to put a new O ring on the foot and see if that helps. But I'm happy with mine.

Love them. KSBAL, what flashes are you using? Mine lock solid with the 580exII and 430ex.

They do what they're meant to do and for the price, you can't fault them.

The added bonus is being able to sync studio strobes at 1/8000!

mR_CaESaR wrote in post #16309151
They do what they're meant to do and for the price, you can't fault them.

The added bonus is being able to sync studio strobes at 1/8000!

certain studio strobes.

I have a 430EX2 that constantly tries to jump off mine - adding a braiding band helped that, but I also have 540 ez's that try to loose contact, but it is a tipping/gravity thing, if I adjust the tilt, I can make them go.. something I've noticed but haven't really tracked down yet.

Sitting on a stand or any position with no stress on the foot/shoe connection and they rock.

Could be I'm not tight enough with the flash lock wheel on the 540's.. I'll experiment more this weekend. (yes, i'm in all manual with them, fire only, with 430ex2 doing ettl)

gonzogolf wrote in post #16309153
certain studio strobes.

Yeah, sorry, should add "strobes with a slow flash duration"

I'm currently working all manual with my 540EZ and YN-560II too. It works fine, but I'm finding more and more that E-TTL capabilities would be really helpful along with HSS. The ability to control flash output right from the camera is very appealing as well, especially when I'm standing 50+ feet away from the subject and flash units.

There is a new transmitter in the development process that will allow you to control the power on individual speedlites like the ste3 will. Your ability to control manual power remotely will depend on the flash and camera you are using. Read cliveyboy's thread on them before you purchase just to be safe.

From my understanding if using YN-622's I'd have to control manual flash output from within the camera menu vice the actual 622 unit but with a compatible speedlight. I didn't mention it in the OP but the 580 I've got coming is the markII version, so I should be able to control it's output from my 50D, correct? I may look into a YN-568EX as a compliment vice a Canon 430EX.

rivas8409 wrote in post #16309259
From my understanding if using YN-622's I'd have to control manual flash output from within the camera menu vice the actual 622 unit but with a compatible speedlight. I didn't mention it in the OP but the 580 I've got coming is the markII version, so I should be able to control it's output from my 50D, correct? I may look into a YN-568EX as a compliment vice a Canon 430EX.

Yes, the camera's flash control menus provide the interface communicated by the 622s to the flashes. Buying a YN 568EX is a good idea, too.

50D + 622C gives full camera menu control with
622 + 580EXII
622 + 568EX

Add fire-only control with manual settings on-flash, using
622 + pc-sync cable + adapter + 560II or 540EX
or 622 + adapter to single-contact, plus 560II or 540EX for x-sync only.

There is an impossibly-large 622 thread in this forum with nearly 3,000 posts, or the short form called TOYUG. See link in my signature,

ksbal - I suspect cou have a problem that I have experienced with some Canon Speedlites. The locking pin mechanism has a small moulded arm which raises and lowers the pins. That can jam the works and prevent proper clamping.

Your flash should not come off - the lock pin should prevent that! Check that is going up and down correctly, and that the spring loading is working.

I have also sprayed teflon on some lock rings to remove the plastic-to-plastic binding that occurs.

Finally, on the 622s I have had their lock ring split - they look fine but do not clamp onto the camera or Frio coldshoe.

Here is info on the flash foot.