variable nd filters?

Has anyone used one of these? It would be mostly for my 50 1.4 to use 1.4 in studio or bright sunlight. Any opinions?

i use one pretty often, its great for long exposures or keeping great DOF

I honestly didn't even know these existed till yesterday at a somewhat local camera shop. I hadn't been in a proper camera shop in years. The stuff at best buy just doesn't cut it.

I would just grab a 2 stop ND. Cheaper with less chance of IQ problems (such as the dreaded "X" that VND's sometimes give)

That's the answer I was looking for. To get one that would fit all my lenses with adapters out would cost me well over $200. If I'm gonna spend that much, it better not affect image quality...

Between a decent polarizer, low ISO, and high shutter speed it seems to me you could readily get to f1.4.

John, in outdoor situations with no flash, yes. But in the studio where that lens spends a lot of its time, flash sync speed hinders getting a fast enough shutter speed.

bugler wrote in post #16326439
But in the studio where that lens spends a lot of its time, flash sync speed hinders getting a fast enough shutter speed.

Don't quite understand why you need f/1.4 in a studio situation; that being said what ever you do don't scrimp on the Var-ND filter. The outcome of your image is limited to the glass in front of the sensor. Just as you would not want to spend $500.00 to get corrective lenses for your eyes and then slap layers of smoke grey cellophane over them, when you go outside, you don't want to buy a cheap Var-ND filter and slap it in front of your lens.

bugler wrote in post #16326439
John, in outdoor situations with no flash, yes. But in the studio where that lens spends a lot of its time, flash sync speed hinders getting a fast enough shutter speed.

You might be able to get away with using Yongnuo YN-622C flash triggers. The will HSS with studio lights via a PC sync cable. Then you wouldn't need any ND filters

I use frequently outdoor for action and panning. My target is to be able to keep a creamy background (mostly between F1.2/F2.0) and no horizontal stripes
I tried 3 different mades, only Singh Ray keeps true colors, others are washing them a bit or a lot (noname).
some samples

All pictures best viewed in FullHD optimized size mode, by clicking once on pictures ..

F1.6

IMAGE LINK: http://photos.corbi.eu …/O/_R8T9765%20c​opie-O.jpg

IMAGE LINK: http://photos.corbi.eu …/O/_R8T0204%20c​opie-O.jpg

Yeah, the problem with the variable NDs is that most give a color cast, some also give badly splotchy effect.... especially the more affordable ones. The higher quality such as Singh-Ray give better effect with less blotchiness and truer color rendition... but are terribly expensive.

I'd suggest getting a standard ND or two, in a quality brand such as Hoya or B+W. Perhaps a one stop and a three stop, or whatever you find you would commonly need. Especially in a studio, you should be able to figure out one or two strengths that will meet your needs. You can stack them for stronger effect if needed, or use in conjunction with a C-Pol for more reduction. Quality standard NDs are much less expensive than variables, and are less likely to give a color cast or uneven effect.

I first built one myself by getting a cheap linear polarizer and putting it on top of my circular, to see if I liked the idea. At less than $10, easy to do. I think it was a Tiffen linear polarizer, just cheap since most are circular now. Worked good enough to make me get an ebay version for around $70, some no name thing sold under many different names/brands. Worked ok, did give some color cast that's easy to remove. I did get the X (a X shaped lighter area going across the image) when fully closed.
That made me buy the Tiffen version, which I currently use. It does still create the X when fully closed, so I don't fully close it. I can't see the X on the rear screen, I guess it only becomes visible with the long exposures I take (waterfalls etc) but works well. Can also be used in studio if I want to open the lens up wider but can't change the lights (in a workshop situation for example) and allows more freedom in regards to f and exposure time outdoors.

One (British I believe) magazine recently tested a bunch of these, the only ones that came out on top were the Tiffen and the SinghRay. The later being much more expensive and they liked the IQ of the Tiffen better, so I'm happy.

Once you use it a bit, you know what it can and can not do and becomes a handy tool, I'm gonna get a 2nd one for my new camera and lens since that one has an 82mm thread.

That being said, I also recently got a set of HiTech ND filters and holder, I use that when "I go out to take photos" and plan to spend a while at a waterfall etc. Too clunky and cumbersome to carry with me all the time though.

I also use welding glass with good results (very cheap, I attach it with rubber bands holding it onto the reversed lens cap). Fun stuff to play with.

so, for highest IQ, dedicated NDs are probably best, but for flexibility and less weight, a vari is a great thing to have. Just make sure to check your photo on your screen and reschoot if necessary. Of course that won't work for action or motorsports like above. But it works for me, so far.

Lee and SinghRay are extremely expensive for no good reasons I can imagine. Lee makes everything by hand (there's a great video on youtube somewhere) which is nice, but is it really necessary? Is a lady dunking the filter into a color bath better than a robot? I don't know. I do know I don't have the money to spend on something I don't use all that often. I should have gone with the Tiffen right away, but I'm not even sure they made it when I started to play with this stuff. Order from where you can return it if you don't like it, and go play

The dreaded X is usually only a problem at wide focal lengths.

A VND filter is especially useful when shooting video outdoors (essential, really); not sure if that applies to you. I have a Genus and a Heliopan. Both are quite good, with little to no color cast. Both are expensive - the Heliopan especially so (ca. $400 for 77mm). Oddly, my Heliopan has virtually no friction on the density control ring, almost as though they forgot to add damping grease. The slightest touch to the ring can send it moving; really annoying.

I use it mainly on the 70-200 or 85 to be able to use flashes for portraits with harsh sun in the back of the model.

The shop by me Service Camera only has Promaster brand available. Anyone have experience with that brand? The highish price ($200 for 77mm) makes me believe it may be ok. Promaster does seem to have a cheaper version in each size, the 77mm being like $75 but I don't trust that one.