How do I achieve the natural hazy/non-contrast effect without photoshop?

I am the kind of strobist who doesn't resort to heavy photoshopping. I always tend to go for the natural SOOC camera look with little to medium LR post process. I have tried adjusting the contrast slider but for some reason it tends to make my photo look fake/unnatural.

I use a PCB E640 with a softbox umbrella.

I would like to know how can I achieve the natural haziness/non-contrast look SOOC? or any LR tips to achieve that effect?

examples:
http://500px.com/photo​/10050917
http://500px.com/photo​/30191677

You have to shoot with the sun barely out of your frame.

The sun will wash out the blacks naturally, watch out for flares which can either look nice or really horrible.

http://content.photojo​jo.com …ilter-ideas-on-the-cheap/

#8 on the list. Cost about $4.

...Or you could spend more money on a glass photographic filter that encapsulates a nylon screen to produce essentially the same thing. I think b+w and Tiffen still produce them.

maverick75 wrote in post #16354534
You have to shoot with the sun barely out of your frame.

The sun will wash out the blacks naturally, watch out for flares which can either look nice or really horrible.

thanks. does it matter what metering mode i use for this? i have always used the evaluative mode.

Foodguy wrote in post #16354539
http://content.photojo​jo.com …ilter-ideas-on-the-cheap/

#8 on the list. Cost about $4.

...Or you could spend more money on a glass photographic filter that encapsulates a nylon screen to produce essentially the same thing. I think b+w and Tiffen still produce them.

cool! will definitely try this, thanks.

jxs1984 wrote in post #16354540
thanks. does it matter what metering mode i use for this? i have always used the evaluative mode.

Evaluative will most likely get thrown off, I'd try spot metering or just meter the subject first then lock in the settings using M mode.

Here's an example of one I did:

http://www.flickr.com/​photos/alexcorona/8368​716511/

There are occasions when you can achieve this effect without any additional gizmos:

• Longer than standard focal length (eg 100mm+ on full frame - wide-angle lenses tend to give the 'string-of-pearls' effect not the flaring you desire). PLUS
  
• Main light source JUST out of frame or even in shot - ie strong backlighting. PLUS
  
• SMALL aperture eg f/11 or smaller. Larger apertures tend to give you a slash of flare across the image rather than an overall veiling.
  

(not 1980s as mentioned in the link )

1. BLACK legwear will give the least effect, all other things being equal. Depending on stretch, you may require exposure compensation.
   
2. WHITE legwear will give the greatest effect.
   
3. You can vary each legwear effect by the amount by which you stretch the material. More stretch increases the size of each hole (the yarn remaining virtually the same diameter irrespective of stretch) hence
   • More stretch reduces the effect.
     
   • Less stretch increases the effect as more light passes through the yarn than through the holes.
     
   • The amount of stretch changes the ratio of light passing through the holes to light passing through the yarn of the legwear. The yarn itself doesn't stretch by very much, stretching simply opens up the holes in the knit of the material relative to the diameter of the yarn.
     
   • In addition to stretch you have to consider that he lower the denier of legwear, the smaller the effect.
     
4. This technique brings with it a softening of overall sharpness as the image-forming light is passing through the nylon/polyester yarn and is marginally distorted by it.
   

I agree with Maverick. Shooting into the sun with a longer focal length works best for me. Here's one I could find mostly sooc. I used center weight or spot, aimed on the subject, and then adjusting as necessary.

maverick75 wrote in post #16354534
You have to shoot with the sun barely out of your frame.

The sun will wash out the blacks naturally, watch out for flares which can either look nice or really horrible.

Do you think a lens hood is suggested for this shot with a long focal lenght?

So you basically try this shot at sunrise and sunset time?

A lens hood adds more contrast.

Vitoflo wrote in post #16355682
Do you think a lens hood is suggested for this shot with a long focal lenght?

So you basically try this shot at sunrise and sunset time?

Those would be the best times, leave the hood off. You don't even need a really long lens, on a crop 50mm is enough, FF 80ish should be plenty. That's not to say you can't do it with a wide angle, because you can, it will just be harder.

You can also try it with a flash(gelled if you want) substituting as the sun, I've never done it but I don't see why I wouldn't work. Just have it facing you and out of frame.

great informations in here. i only have a 50mm but i will try it out.

jxs1984 wrote in post #16356097
great informations in here. i only have a 50mm but i will try it out.

You can easily do it with a 50. And also, if you have cs6 there's a really easy way to do it without having your photo scream photoshop. I use a solid color layer, usually a very muted orange/gold, light purple, or white. Then select soft or hard overlay and play with the opacity. If you only want it localized, you can make it into a brush/mask (not sure of the exact terminology) and dial in exactly how much you want. I personally try to limit how much I use it and only use it to enhance any flaring that is already present, instead of trying to add it to an image that has no flaring to begin with. Here's one last example of a photo i added in some flaring using a mask.

Or, shoot the image normally and use a develop preset in LR that reduced contrast (Slider to left) and increases highlights, shadow, whites and blacks. (Sliders right to taste) then, if you also want the soft focus look reduce clarity. (Slider to left.)

Save it as a preset and have it applied to raw files on import.

Using this approach, when the clients says they really like the picture but wish it wasn't over exposed with lens flare all you have to do is redo the Lightroom settings.

Foodguy wrote in post #16354539
http://content.photojo​jo.com …ilter-ideas-on-the-cheap/

#8 on the list. Cost about $4.

...Or you could spend more money on a glass photographic filter that encapsulates a nylon screen to produce essentially the same thing. I think b+w and Tiffen still produce them.

Petroleum jelly on a UV filter is a nice way to create vignettes and soft focus.

We did that a lot with film. With digital I prefer to do the special effects in post.