Help taking soccer pictures

I have been playing with camera setting all season trying to get better but sometimes the picutres just look worse to me. Games are typically 1-4pm in the afternoon which is pretty harsh sunlight. I am using a 7D, 70-200, 2.8 in manual mode. I play with speed and aperature but I need help. What are your suggetions to capture clear images in bright sunlight? I almost want to go back to my old Rebel and put it in sports mode. Images seem to be better than my manipulations. This image was shot in raw with minor edits.

Expose and focus on the face. The focus seems to be on the ball or the Chevy logo on the chest of the player. TRy adjusting your focus points. I do not think this is a gear issue.

You seem to be shooting low which is good.

White uniforms are tough to expose properly with the rest of the image. I try to position myself so I can avoid shadows on the face of the player.

It's all about position relative to the sun. And regardless of the position, expose for the face, even if it means blowing out the white uniforms and/or background a bit. If you're shooting in RAW, then that won't be a problem to correct anyway. In this shot, her face is underexposed.

Position the sun more to your back if you can, instead of side-lit like your example shot. For afternoon sun, I also like shooting back-lit, but that requires a little more precise exposure control, but the results are pleasing since there are no shadows on the face. You're example shows a little of what I'm talking about. Sometimes getting the position you want isn't always possible... you just have to make due in cases like that.

As far as settings, you generally want to stay wide-open, or close to it. Then it's just a matter of selecting an ISO (usually 2-400 on bight days), and finding the shutter speed that gets you where you need to be.

Here are some settings that I used when I had a 7D

C.Fn III: Autofocus Drive
1 - AI Servo tracking Sensitivity: Set to -1
2 - AI Servo 1st/2nd img priority - Set to 0 - AF priority/Tracking Priority
3 - AI Servo Tracking Method - Set to 0 - Main Focus point priority (that way the camera focuses on what you want, not what it wants)
4 - Lens Drive when AF impossible - Set to 0
5 - AF Microadjustment - Set to 0 (Most people have said this is ineffective. Even the manual says it needs to be done on location where you are shooting to do any good.)
6 - AF area select mode - I have single point w/expansion selected and single point. Been shooting mostly on single point w/expansion for sports.
7 - AF Manual pt. selection pattern - Set to 1 (Continuous)
8 - VF display illumination - set to 1 (Enable)
9 - Display all AF points - Set to 0
10 - Focus Display in AI Servo/MF - Set to 0
11 - AF-assist beam firing - set to 2 (Enable to external flash only)
12 - Orientation linked AF point - Set to 0
13 - Mirror lockup - Set to 0 (Disable)

Also shoot if possible with the sun shining on oncoming players. If this is impossible exposure compensate by at least 1 stop, so use AV rather than manual.

Thanks for the feedback so far. I will concentrate on the player's faces and will use the recommended settings. I look forward to trying it out this weekend. Voaky999, one question though for #1, will setting to -1 slow down the tracking function causing an issue?

bradman11 wrote in post #16395975
Thanks for the feedback so far. I will concentrate on the player's faces and will use the recommended settings. I look forward to trying it out this weekend. Voaky999, one question though for #1, will setting to -1 slow down the tracking function causing an issue?

I also noticed that shooting at 2.8 was coming out pretty dark. That's why I went to manual mode so I could adjust the speed to compensate. What am I doing wrong?

Sometimes with sports the tracking function should be lower so it stays on task longer than flitting off to something that has just popped into the viewfinder.

When I shoot sports outdoors I always use the AV setting at 2.8 and an ISO high enough so the SS does not fall below 1/640th. Shooting on manual is fine, but sports move fast and doing manual compensation can be tough.

Here are some samples all shot in AV mode with some level of exposure compensation +1 or more.

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …donvoaklander/9​863175654/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …donvoaklander/9​863194506/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …donvoaklander/9​889053216/

Thanks for the explanation and samples. I look forward to trying it out this weekend.

I wouldn't shoot in Manual Mode, try Tv or Av instead. Changing both settings is needlessly complicated for fast paced action. 1/640th a second or so can freeze moderately fast action. I froze horses running at 1/1000th a second.

Your subject being backlit causes the face to be dark. I could be wrong but it looks like if you are shooting jpg that your camera might be set to correct this a bit from the image posted. However it makes the face feel a bit "flat".

Sdiver2489 wrote in post #16396220
I wouldn't shoot in Manual Mode, try Tv or Av instead. Changing both settings is needlessly complicated for fast paced action.

There is no need to give control to the camera on a bright sunny day. If light is rapidly changing, like evening sun or a partly cloudy day, then switching to aperture-priority may be helpful if it's too difficult to keep up with the changing light. I definitely wouldn't recommend using shutter-priority for sports since you almost always want aperture fixed wide open. It's not about being complicated, it's about gaining full control since the camera metering can be easily fooled.

So some say AV some say TV but I think I see what you're saying. On bright sunny days which it usually is here in north Texas, I should shoot soccer at 640 in TV and let the aperature adjust as necessary. Is that correct? Sorry if these are silly questions. This is a fun hobby and my daughter is just reaching the speed where getting her clear and crisp with the ball in play is challenging.

bradman11 wrote in post #16396461
So some say AV some say TV but I think I see what you're saying...

I seldom see sports shooters use Tv. It's either Av, or for constant light, Manual

OK so its back to AV. Only time will tell if I'm even comprehending the great advice provided here.

bradman11 wrote in post #16396461
So some say AV some say TV but I think I see what you're saying. On bright sunny days which it usually is here in north Texas, I should shoot soccer at 640 in TV and let the aperature adjust as necessary. Is that correct? Sorry if these are silly questions. This is a fun hobby and my daughter is just reaching the speed where getting her clear and crisp with the ball in play is challenging.

No, like Sibil mentioned, Tv (shutter-priority) typically has no place in sports since you want your aperture to remain wide-open. Also, 1/640th is just the bare minimum to freeze action, best reserved for the games under really bad light. Bright days will allow (and require) you to bump up the shutter speed above that. I'll usually start between 1/2000th to 1/4000th at ISO400 on a sunny day.

abruckse wrote in post #16396346
There is no need to give control to the camera on a bright sunny day. If light is rapidly changing, like evening sun or a partly cloudy day, then switching to aperture-priority may be helpful if it's too difficult to keep up with the changing light. I definitely wouldn't recommend using shutter-priority for sports since you almost always want aperture fixed wide open. It's not about being complicated, it's about gaining full control since the camera metering can be easily fooled.

All fair points. If the lighting is indeed constant and consistent across the field then that would work just fine. I guess I'm use to working on days when its at least partly cloudy and you never know when a cloud might cut out a little of that light