I agree with the others, you seem to be getting too hung up on numbers and technicalities that are of little or no use in the field. OK, that has told you that to fill the frame with a 5.6ft subject, from 10 feet away, you need a focal length of around 40mm. Now, how do you intend to actually make use of that? Your lenses are all zooms, so you could estimate 10 feet and simply zoom in to frame your subject, you don't need to know that the zoom will be at 40mm or thereabouts.
Photography is a subjective process, you are better off concentrating on the image and not the numbers in tables telling you what to do, where to stand and which lens to use.
It is important to keep in mind that distance from the subject controls perspective, and the relationship between the different elements in the scene. The best way of shooting (in my opinion) is to move around and find the best position to shoot from, which frames the subject well and has a good balance with other elements, in short find your picture first. Then set a focal length that frames the scene as you want to show it (or wider if necessary, you can crop later).
You can shoot your 5.6ft subject from 10 feet with a 40mm lens, or from 100 feet with a 400mm lens (or any distance in between, with a relative focal length) and still have them filling the frame the same size. However, the other elements of the scene will have altered, perhaps dramatically. Let's say there is a mountain in the far distance, at 40mm it may be quite small in the scene and hardly noticeable. Moving back 90 feet will make no significant difference in the distance to the mountains several miles away, so they will be hugely increased in size with a 400mm lens, yet that 90 feet is a massive difference in distance to the subject, so they stay the same size in the frame even with the much longer length.
So, you can choose between a small mountain range in the distance, or much larger mountains making a great backdrop, whilst keeping the subject the same size, simply by choosing your distance and focal length. This is something that table will not help you with, you need to move back from your subject and see how things change at different distances (the effect is natural, your eyes see the same way as the lens, you just have to concentrate on the subject and the background) and find the best place, then set your focal length for that image.
It can seem daunting at first, all the things to consider, but it falls quickly into place and you soon get a feel for finding the right place, the right perspective and composition, and the right aperture to shoot at to give the depth of field you want, whether that be shallow or deep. The key thing is to go out and take pictures, that is how you develop that "feel" for what you are doing.
You can sit at a computer and play with charts and tables but ultimately they are of minimal use, I never used them and don't have any use for them other than when answering questions in forums when I want to tell somebody why they don't have sharpness where they want it and I want to be able to say "you only have 1.2 inches of DOF" at that aperture, or whatever. In the field I have no use for the numbers, I work with feel and experience for what aperture will work best, I got that from taking pictures and not reading charts.
It can be useful to look at your exif if you feel a shot hasn't worked, and analyze why it hasn't worked, wrong aperture or shutter speed perhaps. Then next time you are in a similar situation you can think "last time I took a similar shot I used f/4 and didn't have enough DOF, so I'll stop down to a smaller aperture and try that". Shooting with digital is free (almost) so play aroound with the settings, find a scene and shoot it at different apertures, different distances and focal lengths, different shutter speeds with moving subjects, etc. Find out what works for you, what images you like, or don't like, and view the settings you used in the exif to get that result.
