Looking to get binoculars or spotting scope for my pops.

Hey all there in bird land, my dad likes to come out when I shoot birds but isn't a photog. So I would like to get him a set of nice binocs or spotting scope for christmas. I am just wondering how does there range compare to lenses like mm to magnification. I'd like to get something thats longer than my 500mm. I guess I just don't get the specs on the binocs (like 10x40) so any help would be awesome.

First off, binoculars are designated magnification x diameter of objective lens in mm. Dividing the second by the first gives you the diameter in mm of the beam of light emerging from the eyepieces ("exit pupil"). That's important because the wider the better up to ca 7 mm, which is the widest your pupil can expand. However there is a tradeoff, because the wider the objective lens, the heavier the bins and the harder they are to hold steady. The optimum for normal lighting is an exit pupil of around 5 mm. For most people the optimal trade-off seems to be 7 x 35 or 8 x 42. Some can hold steady at 10 x 50, but those are hard on older hands and wrists. And the closest focus should be no more than 15 feet and better 10 feet for birding. 8x bins roughly correspond to a 400 mm lens in perspective. Good brands are Nikon, Leupold, Brunton. In general you can get quite decent glass for $150 to $200 and you can go on up from there to well above $2000. For a beginner with older hands and wrists look for a 7 x 35 to 8x 42 "roof prism".

Will

I have a pair of 16 X 50 binocs and even miniscule movements wreak havoc with what you are or were looking at.

Like Will said, 7x or 8x for birding. I use 8.5x42 Swarovskis which are wonderful, but expensive.

As for matching binocular magnification figures with lens focal length - a good working estimate is to divide the focal length by 50 to get the equivalent x-factor. That would mean you'd want 10x to match your 500mm lens and 12x to better it. But 10x bins are going to be dark and/or heavy and, unless you get IS bins (which are darker than non-IS), the image can be terribly wobbly.

8x42 bins give an excellent compromise between magnification, image brightness, weight and price. One that I hear lots of good things about is the Nikon Monarch - excellent quality for a lower-mid-range price.

I have quite a few pairs ranging from small 8x21 which are handy to keep in a pocket for occasional use up to 10x50 which are okay when I have something to support them but they do get heavy. My personal favourites are the same as Hollis - 8x42 (mine are Minox - lovely glass!) and, for me, are a perfect balance between power, light gathering ability and weight. Steiner make some good binos too.

I felt that my Simmons 12x50 were decent for around $100 and also the Simmons 10x42 ($50). I won a contest and got a pair of Eagle Optics Ranger 8x42's ($300). There is a big difference between the Simmons and the Eagle Optics. If I ever need another pair, Eagle Optics have sold me on theirs.

Thanks guy think he would like something long with a monopod or tripod or maybe a window mount. He doesn't stray to far from the truck (and his smokes) so thanks for all the advice it will help out a lot.

Typically, binocular image quality falls off as magnification increases. That is one reason why birders choose smaller powers like 8x and 8.5x. The other reason is portability and handling. As you get into larger magnifications above 10x, movement when holding them is unacceptable and you are restricted to tripods, defeating the entire purpose of binoculars. Binocs that are at 8.5x are virtually the same as a 400mm lens on a crop body.

As far as binoc recommendations go, the Vanguard Endeavor 8x, 8.5x, and 10x are fantastic binocs for the price. Easily compare with $1000 bins that I have tried.

Have a look at this site, great info on bins - http://www.bestbinocul​arsreviews.com/birdwat​ching-binoculars.php

The canon IS binos are nice, the 12x36 are light and the IS works remarkably well handheld . My father takes them out when we shoot. Paid 650 for them. Also have the 18x50 and they are heavy and we rarely take them out for birds due to the size and weight.

hollis_f wrote in post #16463033
Like Will said, 7x or 8x for birding. I use 8.5x42 Swarovskis which are wonderful, but expensive.

As for matching binocular magnification figures with lens focal length - a good working estimate is to divide the focal length by 50 to get the equivalent x-factor. That would mean you'd want 10x to match your 500mm lens and 12x to better it. But 10x bins are going to be dark and/or heavy and, unless you get IS bins (which are darker than non-IS), the image can be terribly wobbly.

8x42 bins give an excellent compromise between magnification, image brightness, weight and price. One that I hear lots of good things about is the Nikon Monarch - excellent quality for a lower-mid-range price.

I use 8x42 Pentax, 8x21's when packing light but they will not perform well in low light.
Have used 8 and 10 power Swarovkis, love them but they will cost a considerable amount. Forget thinking about any spotting scope,they have their place but I would not think bird watching would be one of them. The 8x 42's are the best combination for most people.

Grizz1 wrote in post #16485665
Forget thinking about any spotting scope,they have their place but I would not think bird watching would be one of them.

It depends on what sort of habitat you're birding. A scope will be fairly useless walking through woodland, but it is essential when sea watching and very useful in a wetlands hide.

Grizz1 wrote in post #16485665
Forget thinking about any spotting scope,they have their place but I would not think bird watching would be one of them.

On the contrary. Most serious birders own at least a decent scope. As hollis stated, scopes are a necessity for long distance bird watching, or mid range watching of small birds. The large shorebird flocks here on the West coast require spotting scopes to pick out most of the rarities. Most serious birders that I know have invested $3-$4k in spotting scopes (those who can afford them), and Christmas Bird Count areas that require long range viewing will not be handed out to birders who do not own scopes. Since this could mean missed species.