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Thread started 02 Dec 2013 (Monday) 19:01
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Shutter speed in Program Mode

 
Shooting
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Dec 02, 2013 19:01 |  #1

I have a Canon 50D. Is there a way I can over ride the 1/60 shutter speed that is automatic when you shoot in P mode? I am starting to suffer a lot from camera movement when I fire the shutter at 1/60. Can I make it something more without going into manual?




  
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Dec 02, 2013 19:19 |  #2

Well, staying in P mode, you can just spin the dial and it will adjust the program to favour faster shutter speeds and wider apertures in one direction, and slower shutter speeds and smaller apertures turning it in the other direction. Just spin it until you see settings you like the look of, you don't have to use the default setting.

Or, my recommendation would be to switch to shutter priority (Tv) and then you can set whatever shutter speed you want and the camera will stick to it, and adjust aperture (and ISO if you set auto ISO) to the required exposure (as the camera sees it).




  
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Dec 02, 2013 20:30 |  #3

hum...I would like the camera to keep the same aperture but let me choose a faster shutter speed which only affect the ambient light, not overall exposure. Instead of 60 I'd like to have 100 but keep the same everything else and let the camera do the rest. When shooting with a 24-70 L 2.8 in P mode at iso 400 it keeps the shutter at 1/60 and aperature at F/4. I'd like to keep the F/4 but use 1/100. From iso 100 to 400 it keeps it the same 1/60 at f/4 so I just want to make it 1/100




  
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Dec 02, 2013 20:37 |  #4

M gives you control of shutter/aperture. There are two dials, one on top and one on the back. One changes shutter whilst keeping aperture as you set it, the other changes aperture whilst keeping shutter as you set it.


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Dec 02, 2013 21:27 |  #5

Shooting wrote in post #16496551 (external link)
I have a Canon 50D. Is there a way I can over ride the 1/60 shutter speed that is automatic when you shoot in P mode? I am starting to suffer a lot from camera movement when I fire the shutter at 1/60. Can I make it something more without going into manual?

Clarification: The Program AE setting doesn't set a 1/60 shutter speed unless conditions require it.

However, Canon DSLR's typically set a 1/60 shutter speed in Program AE when the camera is taking a flash picture with a Canon system flash. If the flash is a Canon EX-series unit, then the camera can use the high speed sync (external link) function for a faster shutter speed.




  
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Dec 02, 2013 21:37 |  #6

bidkev wrote in post #16496786 (external link)
P gives you control of shutter/aperture despite being an "auto" setting". There are two dials, one on top and one on the back. One changes shutter whilst keeping aperture as you set it, the other changes aperture whilst keeping shutter as you set it.

The control description you have just given applies ONLY to Manual exposure mode. In any automatic mode the top wheel controls the aperture and/or shutter depending on mode and the rear wheel controls the Exposure Compensation.

In P mode the top wheel will change both aperture AND shutter speed, so that the same exposure value is used, within the limits of both max/min Shutter speed and Aperture.

In Av mode the top wheel controls the Aperture while Shutter Speed floats.

In Tv mode it is controlling the shutter speed while the Aperture floats.

This is assuming that you are using a fixed ISO. For Auto ISO it all becomes a bit more complicated, and very much depends on which body you are shooting with, as Auto ISO is implemented differently on almost every different Canon EOS DSLR.

My next question for the OP is are you using the on board flash or a speedlight in the hot shoe? I seem to recall P mode defaulting to 1/60 when using ETTL flash. That is also the only reason that I can think that the camera would be able to keep the same exposure settings and allow you to vary the exposure by three stops using ISO. What happens if you go to say ISO 800?

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Dec 02, 2013 22:01 |  #7

Shooting wrote in post #16496777 (external link)
hum...I would like the camera to keep the same aperture but let me choose a faster shutter speed which only affect the ambient light, not overall exposure. Instead of 60 I'd like to have 100 but keep the same everything else and let the camera do the rest. When shooting with a 24-70 L 2.8 in P mode at iso 400 it keeps the shutter at 1/60 and aperature at F/4. I'd like to keep the F/4 but use 1/100. From iso 100 to 400 it keeps it the same 1/60 at f/4 so I just want to make it 1/100

Im going to guess you're working with flash.....so the question is; if you know you want to be at f4 and a SS of 1/100 why are you NOT shooting in manual? I mean you already know what you want so why try to fight against the camera when you can just tell it what to do??

Personally, with flash, I find the manual is the best way to shoot.

bidkev wrote in post #16496786 (external link)
P gives you control of shutter/aperture despite being an "auto" setting". There are two dials, one on top and one on the back. One changes shutter whilst keeping aperture as you set it, the other changes aperture whilst keeping shutter as you set it.

I have no clue what camera you're using but that is manual not program mode




  
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Dec 02, 2013 22:44 |  #8

BigAl007 wrote in post #16496941 (external link)
The control description you have just given applies ONLY to Manual exposure mode. In any automatic mode the top wheel controls the aperture and/or shutter depending on mode and the rear wheel controls the Exposure Compensation.

In P mode the top wheel will change both aperture AND shutter speed, so that the same exposure value is used, within the limits of both max/min Shutter speed and Aperture.

In Av mode the top wheel controls the Aperture while Shutter Speed floats.

In Tv mode it is controlling the shutter speed while the Aperture floats.

This is assuming that you are using a fixed ISO. For Auto ISO it all becomes a bit more complicated, and very much depends on which body you are shooting with, as Auto ISO is implemented differently on almost every different Canon EOS DSLR.

My next question for the OP is are you using the on board flash or a speedlight in the hot shoe? I seem to recall P mode defaulting to 1/60 when using ETTL flash. That is also the only reason that I can think that the camera would be able to keep the same exposure settings and allow you to vary the exposure by three stops using ISO. What happens if you go to say ISO 800?

Alan

Thanks Alan...............my bad............I'm so so used to using manual that I must have been having a brain fart


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Dec 03, 2013 04:07 |  #9

Shooting wrote in post #16496777 (external link)
hum...I would like the camera to keep the same aperture but let me choose a faster shutter speed which only affect the ambient light, not overall exposure. Instead of 60 I'd like to have 100 but keep the same everything else and let the camera do the rest. When shooting with a 24-70 L 2.8 in P mode at iso 400 it keeps the shutter at 1/60 and aperature at F/4. I'd like to keep the F/4 but use 1/100. From iso 100 to 400 it keeps it the same 1/60 at f/4 so I just want to make it 1/100

As said by others above, if you know what aperture, shutter speed and ISO you want the camera to use, then just set them in manual and use them. You are never going to get the camera to use the exact settings you want it to, so long as you are using a mode which tells the camera to use whatever it feels is appropriate.

The different modes allow you to adjust what YOU control and what the camera controls, you are using a mode which hands a large part of the decision making process over to the camera. You have some control, via the wheel, as to which combo of aperture and shutter speed it will pick. I would imagine that EC and FEC both work in P mode (I never use P, so can't be 100% sure on that) so you can adjust those to balance your flash and ambient light.

But, if you know what settings you want, just set them yourself, rather than complain that the camera won't choose those settings when told to make the choice itself.




  
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Dec 03, 2013 05:25 |  #10

bidkev wrote in post #16496786 (external link)
P gives you control of shutter/aperture despite being an "auto" setting". There are two dials, one on top and one on the back. One changes shutter whilst keeping aperture as you set it, the other changes aperture whilst keeping shutter as you set it.

I'm sorry but this is entirely wrong. The top dial will change both shutter speed and aperture simultaneously to retain the same exposure and the back dial will bias the exposure by changing either one parameter or the other or both in ways that seem to defy prediction.


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Dec 03, 2013 17:20 |  #11

^ Already noted above


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Dec 03, 2013 20:10 |  #12

Yes, sorry..I should have said, I'm using the 580exII flash. Bouncing at 1/60 is way too slow. I'm using a Canon 50D. I wish I could make the camera go faster but keep f/4. I don't do manual because of the limitations there also when using the flash in ettl. Even when camera is in manual and you are shooting a bride the flash reads the white dress and cuts off prematurely. Men in black and it stays on too long washing them all out., Right now I'm shooting P and spot metering on face.




  
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Dec 04, 2013 01:40 |  #13

Shooting wrote in post #16499558 (external link)
Yes, sorry..I should have said, I'm using the 580exII flash. Bouncing at 1/60 is way too slow. I'm using a Canon 50D. I wish I could make the camera go faster but keep f/4. I don't do manual because of the limitations there also when using the flash in ettl. Even when camera is in manual and you are shooting a bride the flash reads the white dress and cuts off prematurely. Men in black and it stays on too long washing them all out., Right now I'm shooting P and spot metering on face.

Sounds to me like you need to learn how ETTL works and how to use FEC (flash exposure compensation).

Shooting wrote in post #16499558 (external link)
Even when camera is in manual and you are shooting a bride the flash reads the white dress and cuts off prematurely. Men in black and it stays on too long washing them all out.

What you're describing here sounds like you used to work in Auto flash mode or are mistaking ETTL for auto. In auto, the camera triggers the flash and the flash stays on until it determines, through a sensor on the flash, that enough light has been given. However in ETTL the camera has the flash send out a "pre-flash" prior to the shutter opening. The meter in the camera then see's that pre-flash and does calculations as to what power the flash needs to fire at once the shutter opens. But, since it's the cameras meter, its going to try and expose everything as gray. Thats when you need to know how to use FEC

The great thing about the camera being in Manual and the flash being in ETTL is you set your aperture, ISO, and shutter speed to what YOU want them to be at (depending on the DOF, noise, and amount of ambient you want). Now with the flash in ETTL all you have to do is dial in + or - FEC depending on the scene. A lot of white? Dial in + FEC! A lot of black? Dial in - FEC

The problem with program mode is that it's going to try and expose for the scene without taking the flash into consideration. In low light conditions that usually means a max SS of 1/60. Like I said before, why fight against your camera when you already know what you want?

Set the SS to 1/100 (or 1/200 or 1/250 or what ever YOU want), ISO to 400, Aperture to f4. Cool, your camera is set and no more fighting with the camera over the SS. Now you're shooting the bribe with her brides maids, all of which are wearing light colored dresses. No biggie, dial in +1 2/3 FEC and boom great exposure! Next we have the groom and all his grooms men.....well damn there is a lot of black now. Well no biggie, I already have my SS, ISO, and aperture set so dial in -2 FEC and nice exposure it is!! (These FEC number are just examples. Different situations may need different values)

Trust me, you're doing yourself a major disservice by fighting with the camera in P mode. Not to mention in P the lowest you're going to go is 1/60 with a flash attached. There may be times when you want to drag the shutter to let more ambient in then use the flash to freeze your subjects

Learn Manual. Learn how ETTL and FEC work. Then just enjoy not having to fight with your camera any more ;)




  
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Dec 04, 2013 19:10 |  #14

Thank you. I do see your points. Thank you. M is it then. I guess trying to mimick other photographers is not good. I figured if Joe Buissink can do it I can, he shoots Program all the time and Denis Reggie about 60% of the time.




  
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Dec 04, 2013 22:26 |  #15

Shooting wrote in post #16502177 (external link)
Thank you. I do see your points. Thank you. M is it then. I guess trying to mimick other photographers is not good. I figured if Joe Buissink can do it I can, he shoots Program all the time and Denis Reggie about 60% of the time.

Oh man, Joe Buissink, that man does some very nice work and gets paid very well or his work too. But I watched one of creative live sessions before (actually not sure if he has done more then one) and the program thing just made me go "why!!" Lol.

Different strokes for different folks. Give manual a try. You may like it you may not. Personally I'm in aperture priority the majority of the time, but once I break a flash out the camera goes into manual no matter what.




  
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