Help with the lens purchase or Settings

Hi I have a question which I still don't understand. I have 430exii and kit lens (18-55mm). How can I get a perfect shot in low light? I mean like if kids run fast, I don't get perfect sharp shot even when I use the flash. I had gone to Best Buy and they recommended me to purchase the Canon 17-55mm f2.8 which I find it expensive to buy since I am just doing for Hobby photographing kids. I do have the 40mm f2.8 & I don't like the 50mm 1.8 coz of focusing issue . Can you help me with the right settings? Few days back I took pictures of a friend B'day party (indoor) and the pictures where just ok.. Didn't feel the WOW factor.
So Do I need to change the lens to 17-55 f2.8 or look for Sigma 30mm 1.4 or stick to the current lens and get the right setting? I'm so confused.

AI servo.

I have the 18-55 IS as well. Been flip flipping on getting the tamron 17-50. Actually ordered and cancelled it. The kit lens does produce sharp pictures but we tend to always want more. Common sense and some reading told me that the 430ex will work wonders. Have you tried servo for movin subjects?

The 18-55mm is definitely capable of sharp photos. What mode is your camera in, and what are the settings you are using? Are you finding your pictures are out of focus, or are you getting motion blur? The first is probably due to auto focus settings, the second more likely due to shutter speed. Post a photo with your settings and I'm sure people can help you with some tips.

Your equipment is more than adequate for the task at hand. As Frodge stated, use AI-Servo. It will also help to use back-button auto focus (BBAF). I don't know how to do that on your camera, but I know it is possible. You do NOT need the 17-55 to do this.

Try this. Set camera to Manual mode. Set shutter to 1/400. Set the aperture to f/5.6. Use an ISO from 400 to 800. Mount your 430EX II and engage HSS (see manual). Use BBAF; hold the button down while following the subject. Press the shutter button to make the shot.

robienyshe wrote in post #16564014
Hi I have a question which I still don't understand. I have 430exii and kit lens (18-55mm). How can I get a perfect shot in low light? I mean like if kids run fast, I don't get perfect sharp shot even when I use the flash. I had gone to Best Buy and they recommended me to purchase the Canon 17-55mm f2.8 which I find it expensive to buy since I am just doing for Hobby photographing kids. I do have the 40mm f2.8 & I don't like the 50mm 1.8 coz of focusing issue . Can you help me with the right settings? Few days back I took pictures of a friend B'day party (indoor) and the pictures where just ok.. Didn't feel the WOW factor.
So Do I need to change the lens to 17-55 f2.8 or look for Sigma 30mm 1.4 or stick to the current lens and get the right setting? I'm so confused.

Heya,

Your equipment is more than capable of doing this. You don't need more expensive stuff. You need to slow down and learn the equipment you do have. This is all going to revolve around how you set your camera. You could even do this without a flash to an extent. But this is all going to revolve around you learning your camera's settings and abilities and what they do and how they combine to produce an effect.

Tell us what settings you were using for this.

Very best,

robienyshe wrote in post #16564014
Hi I have a question which I still don't understand. I have 430exii and kit lens (18-55mm). How can I get a perfect shot in low light? I mean like if kids run fast, I don't get perfect sharp shot even when I use the flash.

First off, you should be able to get completely sharp shots in this scenario with the equipment you have. I would suggest that you post a sample so we can get more specific, but there are two possible reasons for blur as you are shooting.

1) Your ambient light exposure settings are such that ambient light is contributing to the exposure. In this case you will see blur from longish shutter times.

I suggest putting your camera in M mode, and select f/8, 1/200 and ISO 400 to start. This should close out ambient light completely which will allow the flash to expose and freeze the subjects.

2) You might be missing focus. Make sure the camera is set to AI servo focus mode for moving subjects.

I'd work through those two issues before even thinking of buying anything.

Also, for a good look to the photos, are you bouncing the flash from the ceiling? Try that if you are not already doing so.

EOS5DC wrote in post #16564121
It will also help to use back-button auto focus (BBAF).

I know that a lot of people like to separate AF and shutter release, but just using back button focus is not a cure-all for focus issues. In fact, it isn't even helpful for most issues. If you need to track a single moving subject and then take a picture of them, using back button focus is not better nor worse than just focusing with a half-press of the shutter.

I don't mean to single you out, but there are a lot of people who suggest back button focus as a fix for just about every focus issue or even suspected focus issue. It isn't. It is a way to allow focus to start and stop independent of metering and shutter release, which is valuable in a few situations.

There isn't much point to using HSS in this situation and it will needlessly cut flash range and increase cycle times. 1/200 with modest aperture and ISO will drop ambient exposure to null indoors pretty much all the time anyway.

EOS5DC wrote in post #16564121
Your equipment is more than adequate for the task at hand. As Frodge stated, use AI-Servo. It will also help to use back-button auto focus (BBAF). I don't know how to do that on your camera, but I know it is possible. You do NOT need the 17-55 to do this.

Try this. Set camera to Manual mode. Set shutter to 1/400. Set the aperture to f/5.6. Use an ISO from 400 to 800. Mount your 430EX II and engage HSS (see manual). Use BBAF; hold the button down while following the subject. Press the shutter button to make the shot.

These instructions will work only with the cameras that have the HSS. I believe the Rebels and the XXD's (at least the 60D and the 70D) do not. And these cameras only have 1/250th as the fastest synchronized shutter speed.

And I agree, the 17-55 lens is only a stop - stop-and-a-half faster than the 18-55. That can be compensated by increasing the ISO by the same amount, so there is no need to spend a lot of money on a fast lens only for that reason.

So select the M mode, set 1/200 or 1/250 (whatever your camera allows), F-stop to 5.6, ISO 400, set up the flash to E-TTL from the camera menu, set auto-focus to AI-servo which will allow the focus to follow your running kids, and shoot away!

Lbsimon wrote in post #16564209
These instructions will work only with the cameras that have the HSS. I believe the Rebels and the XXD's (at least the 60D and the 70D) do not.

All EOS cameras will do HSS when there is a Speedlight mounted. But as I noted, there isn't really much point to using HSS indoors in poor light.

I think HSS is one of those things that a lot of people don't quite know what it is for. HSS is to allow the shutter speed needed to knock down the ambient light when shooting with large apertures (for DOF) or in bright light.

Basically, HSS is for when you are shooting outside and you don't want to be stuck at f/11 or something to get the shutter speed under 1/200 when you are already at ISO 100.

JeffreyG wrote in post #16564235
All EOS cameras will do HSS when there is a Speedlight mounted. But as I noted, there isn't really much point to using HSS indoors in poor light.

I think HSS is one of those things that a lot of people don't quite know what it is for. HSS is to allow the shutter speed needed to knock down the ambient light when shooting with large apertures (for DOF) or in bright light.

Basically, HSS is for when you are shooting outside and you don't want to be stuck at f/11 or something to get the shutter speed under 1/200 when you are already at ISO 100.

Thanks. I opened the 70D manual, and I found only one mentioning of the High-speed synchronization, on pg. 200, with just three lines of explanation of when it is useful. I never knew this before, no wonder I missed it!

if you arent getting a sharp shots then you AF is failing in the low light. the will freeze the action well enough assuming you arent really dragging your shutter.

so.... you need to use the af modes that help with moving subjects and if that still isnt enough, you need a lens that can focus faster. also make sure youuse a lens that opens to 2.8 to take advantage cross type af points on your camera.

As mentioned above, AI Servo. If it can move...AI Servo. Buildings, landscape, single-shot.

But...for fast moving subjects (high speed kids and race cars included), the 'trick' is either panning the camera to match their speed (takes lots of practice), and/or a higher shutter speed...such as 1/200th of a second or even faster. It may not seem that kids are capable of running that fast, but at 10 feet away, for example, they cover a large area of the camera frame very quickly.

JeffreyG wrote in post #16564203
I know that a lot of people like to separate AF and shutter release, but just using back button focus is not a cure-all for focus issues. In fact, it isn't even helpful for most issues. If you need to track a single moving subject and then take a picture of them, using back button focus is not better nor worse than just focusing with a half-press of the shutter.

I don't mean to single you out, but there are a lot of people who suggest back button focus as a fix for just about every focus issue or even suspected focus issue. It isn't. It is a way to allow focus to start and stop independent of metering and shutter release, which is valuable in a few situations.

There isn't much point to using HSS in this situation and it will needlessly cut flash range and increase cycle times. 1/200 with modest aperture and ISO will drop ambient exposure to null indoors pretty much all the time anyway.

BBAF allows the user to maintain continuous focus without trying to maintain a half-press on the shutter button. It is just plain easier to do. For that alone, it is invaluable. No one suggested, anywhere, that BBAF yields better focus, or corrects any camera issues.

I just played with my 430EX II and HSS. I am surprised by how much even modest shutter speeds decrease the effective flash distance. That said, ISO 800 and f/5.6 still yields about 20 feet, depending on shutter speed. That would be sufficient for most indoor work. It is not as effective as I thought it would be.

As mentioned HSS is a feature of the flash. If the flash will do it, any Canon reasonably modern camera (digital or not) should be able to handle it. My oldest Canon bodies were the 5D, 450D and Elan 7NE; all of them could use HSS.

EOS5DC wrote in post #16564328
I just played with my 430EX II and HSS. I am surprised by how much even modest shutter speeds decrease the effective flash distance. That said, ISO 800 and f/5.6 still yields about 20 feet, depending on shutter speed. That would be sufficient for most indoor work. It is not as effective as I thought it would be.

Yes, at a reasonable shutter speed HSS range isn't cut too badly. But mainly my point is that indoors with HSS all you are doing is cutting range, increasing cycle time and draining the batteries faster.

Right now it is mid-afternoon. The windows are wide open and I turned on the 8x100 watt overhead lights in my kitchen.

This is my daughter texting at the table at 1/200, f/8 and ISO 400. I do not need HSS in order to cut down the ambient light inside the house. 1/200 is plenty.

Maybe if I was at f/1.2 I might start to think about HSS, but usually (and for the OP) it is just totally not needed indoors.