Help, dozens and dozens of "stuck/hot pixels" (5Dc)

Still testing my recently purchased used 5Dc from eBay and after taking some test shots last night preparing for the fireworks display have noticed dozens of red/blue/green pixels in the dark areas even at 100 ISO + 10s exp.

I've done lot's of reading and understand that some stuck/hot pixels are normal and are automatically removed in LR, etc. or can be fixed with the "sensor clean" method (which does not work here), but in my case they seem excessive. While LR5 does remove most of the hot pixels, there still remains a good handful for me to have to go and remove manually and I also notice 2-3 pop up in exposures of 1/200 and faster taken during the day in natural lighting.

Here are 2 sets of full res samples. One shot is the unprocessed RAW sooc file where you can see the multitude of stuck pixels, and the other is after LR has done it's automatic processing (I have not adjusted anything).

So my questions are:
1.) Dose this unprocessed raw file reflect that of a typical 5Dc sensor? (made 2008 - SN# starts with 3)
2.) Looking at the processed shots through LR5, should I request a refund?

Thank you so much in advance for the help and Happy New Years!!!

Shot 1 Unprocessed:
Rokinon 14 @ F/11 ISO100 10seconds
http://www.flickr.com …bins/1169035200​3/sizes/o/

Shot 1 Processed through LR5
http://www.flickr.com …bins/1169042756​3/sizes/o/

---------------
Shot 2 Unprocessed:
Canon 35/2 @ F/11 ISO200 30seconds
http://www.flickr.com …bins/1169017754​5/sizes/o/

Shot 2 Processed through LR5
http://www.flickr.com …bins/1169095913​6/sizes/o/

---------------

and here are a few of my favorite shots from last night that I thought I'd share...

1. Downtown WPB from the Peir

Have you tried the stuck/dead pixel fix?
I believe you charge up the batteries, go to the menu, initiate a “Manual Sensor Cleaning”, wait about half minute and then turn off the camera.
PS: Some people suggest waiting one to two minutes before turning the camera off, I don't know if that makes any difference but since you have
so many stuck/dead pixels perhaps a longer wait might be indicated.

Snowyman wrote in post #16569498
Have you tried the stuck/dead pixel fix?
I believe you charge up the batteries, go to the menu, initiate a “Manual Sensor Cleaning”, wait about half minute and then turn off the camera.

Yes, several times. I've left for as long as 5 minutes in the sensor clean mode with body cap on in a dark room.

I believe that you see a lot more 'dead'/'stuck' pixels at long exposures because the sensor heats up and produces a lot more noise.

Shoot some photos with the lens cap on (make sure that the camera will fire without AF confirm) at the speeds you normally use the camera (say 1/20--> 1/4000) and see how many pixels you get.

MakisM1 wrote in post #16569599
I believe that you see a lot more 'dead'/'stuck' pixels at long exposures because the sensor heats up and produces a lot more noise.

Shoot some photos with the lens cap on (make sure that the camera will fire without AF confirm) at the speeds you normally use the camera (say 1/20--> 1/4000) and see how many pixels you get.

I think "at speeds you normally use the camera" is subjective depending on the users shooting style don't you? I like to do nightshots which usually require at least a 1 sec exp. or longer. However, I did not think a 10 second exposure was considered unusually long.

There are more than I would expect, but I've never used a 5Dc. I suspect though that if you took another 10s exposure the next day that it would not be exactly the same pixels that would look hot. If that is the case, then it is just the sensor in the 5Dc. If you can go back a day later (or even a few hours) and it is always the same pixels, that would be something different I guess and point to an issue.

Personally I have seen this a lot on night shots of 10s or longer, but just not to that extent. If I'm taking several shots in a row then they will usually show the same pixels. Then at some point in my shooting some new ones will become hot and some that were hot will be OK.

Then if I wait a while (hours or the next day) and start again it will be a whole different set of pixels that look hot.

Therefore I conclude in the cases that I have seen with my cameras, that it is not a problem with particular pixels, but an attribute of the sensor.

ejenner wrote in post #16570009
There are more than I would expect, but I've never used a 5Dc. I suspect though that if you took another 10s exposure the next day that it would not be exactly the same pixels that would look hot. If that is the case, then it is just the sensor in the 5Dc. If you can go back a day later (or even a few hours) and it is always the same pixels, that would be something different I guess and point to an issue.

Personally I have seen this a lot on night shots of 10s or longer, but just not to that extent. If I'm taking several shots in a row then they will usually show the same pixels. Then at some point in my shooting some new ones will become hot and some that were hot will be OK.

Then if I wait a while (hours or the next day) and start again it will be a whole different set of pixels that look hot.

Therefore I conclude in the cases that I have seen with my cameras, that it is not a problem with particular pixels, but an attribute of the sensor.

This makes sense.. I can live with it if it's considered pretty normal. Took about 5 min to spot treat the rest of the hot pixels that were not automatically removed.

My big concern is, how will this affect my astrophotography that I am eager to start doing with my new Rokinon 14?

Loxley wrote in post #16569613
I think "at speeds you normally use the camera" is subjective depending on the users shooting style don't you? I like to do nightshots which usually require at least a 1 sec exp. or longer. However, I did not think a 10 second exposure was considered unusually long.

I think that if you have specialized needs you declare them up front don't you?

I am not a magician to read your mind, I just tried to help you.

There are solutions, if you can identify the problem, but be my guest...

MakisM1 wrote in post #16570059
I think that if you have specialized needs you declare them up front don't you?

I am not a magician to read your mind, I just tried to help you.

There are solutions, if you can identify the problem, but be my guest...

I wasn't trying to be rude, I just didn't realize it was a specialty. I apologize for how it may have come off.

I do get hot pixels doing as you said, and they do increase as my exposure time increases. I'm aware that is normal. I am not sure however if the amount of hot pixels I am experiencing at 1 second, 10 second and 30 second exposures at 100 ISO is acceptable or not, and that is all I am trying to find out.

Thank you for the help.

Loxley wrote in post #16570026
My big concern is, how will this affect my astrophotography that I am eager to start doing with my new Rokinon 14?

To be honest I'm not sure. I've done 30s exposures at ISO6400 and certainly have some, although on my 5DII not as many as you seem to. Fortunately the raw converter I use (BIbble/AfterShotPro) has a 'raw noise' reduction that works on the raw (undemosaiced) data that seems to very effectively remove them.

For longer exposures of minutes, I have had to go in and edit them by hand because they are bad enough that the effect spills over to adjacent pixels and the raw noise doesn't get them all.

If you do determine that they are not in the same places each time, perhaps it would be worth renting a different body or two or try to find a software solution.

Also did you use long exposure noise reduction? Personally I always do. I find it removed stuff I can't do in PP and if you didn't should remove a lot of those pixels. All my comments are made comparing to using long exposure NR.

Pretty normal for every camera I've played with longer exposures on. Basically, of those millions of pixels on your sensor, not all of them are perfect.

Once you get to 10+ seconds they tend to pop up. In most cases these hot pixels tend to be repeatable (the same pixels) but if you turn on the long exposure noise reduction it will automatically take a dark frame of the same length in camera and that will take care of the issue for you. There's also software you can get that will store dark images you take at varying exposures and let you fix the problem on your computer which is much faster than having the camera do it. That can be preferable to shooting a 2 minute exposure and then waiting 2 battery draining minutes for the camera to take a dark frame before it saves the final image. I believe you can also do that in Photoshop in various ways but I've not done it myself.

I'm surprised LR isn't doing it automatically for you.

My 10D had a ton when I did long exposures and LR/PS fixed every single one.