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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos RAW, Post Processing & Printing 
Thread started 04 Feb 2006 (Saturday) 10:44
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Pixma i8500 + CS2 + red cast print

 
MartinL
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Feb 04, 2006 10:44 |  #1

Despite asking CS2 to colour manage, turn off printer management, setting printer profile to the correct type of canon paper I am using, I am getting a red cast

Any ideas any one?

Thanks




  
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stupot
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Feb 04, 2006 10:47 |  #2

are your cartridgesw full/clean?


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MartinL
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Feb 04, 2006 11:11 |  #3

absolutely - also checked they are in the correct position!!

Am using Canon Glossy Photo Paper - used canon iPixma SP1 for the printer profile as was told this was best for this paper - however changed to BJ Color Printer profile 2000 which has improved the colour but not convinced that this is the "best" I can get given what other people have written elsewhere

Am I pendantic!?




  
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DavidW
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Feb 04, 2006 11:35 |  #4

This article (external link) walks you through using Canon printers with ICC profiles in Photoshop.

Be aware that if your monitor isn't calibrated and profiled, your screen isn't an accurate representation of the file. If your monitor is calibrated and profiled, then a soft proof with the appropriate settings should match the print, if you're making correct use of the printer profile.

David




  
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MartinL
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Feb 04, 2006 11:41 |  #5

Thanks - the monitor has been calibrated using Adobe gamma & not just using the single gamma view ie for red, green & blue. I am using a CRT.

Thus your idea of a soft proof would be useful to explore but I have no idea as to what you mean - excuse my ignorance




  
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vjack
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Feb 04, 2006 11:44 as a reply to  @ DavidW's post |  #6

I get this red case with the Pixma 4200 when using the settings in the article DavidW posted. The trick seems to be to do some careful color correction in PS for those photos that I plan to print. Printing will bring out the red, so correct for this in your post-processing. BTW, I callibrate my monitor with a Spyder, and this doesn't fix the red cast when printing.



Canon 20D
Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
Sigma 18-125mm f/3.5-5.6 DC
Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di LD
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L

Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6
L IS
Canon Speedlite 430EX
Manfrotto 3021BPRO; Kirk BH-1 ballhead
Canon Pixma 4200
< see my gallery (external link) >

  
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MartinL
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Feb 04, 2006 11:52 as a reply to  @ vjack's post |  #7

Thanks Jack - interesting to know about spyder2

What have you found to be the best settings for correction in CS2 (incidentally also had the same problem in Elements 3 befor upgrading)




  
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vjack
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Feb 04, 2006 12:08 as a reply to  @ MartinL's post |  #8

MartinL wrote:
Thanks Jack - interesting to know about spyder2

What have you found to be the best settings for correction in CS2 (incidentally also had the same problem in Elements 3 befor upgrading)

It will be somewhat different for each picture, based on the pre-existing red. However, my starting point is always to set the white, black, and grey points in Curves. For some photos, that is enough. If there is a visible color case in PS, I'll go to Match Color and check Neutralize. As a last resort, there are always the Hue or Color Balance sliders.



Canon 20D
Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
Sigma 18-125mm f/3.5-5.6 DC
Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di LD
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L

Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6
L IS
Canon Speedlite 430EX
Manfrotto 3021BPRO; Kirk BH-1 ballhead
Canon Pixma 4200
< see my gallery (external link) >

  
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MartinL
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Feb 04, 2006 12:19 |  #9

Thanks for your help - will go away & try




  
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DavidW
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Feb 04, 2006 12:51 |  #10

Adobe Gamma is better than nothing - colorimeter based calibration is better, but involves expenditure. Hopefully you're close enough - unless you have something like a Gretag Macbeth ColorChecker to hand (something I'm realising the value of over time enough to be prepared to buy one), there's no really any easy way of judging. The quality of such a comparison depends on the illumination on the ColorChecker or similar.


There's an article about soft proofing here (external link). In Photoshop CS2, go to View -> Proof Setup, Custom..., and configure the printer profile and the rendering intent you wish to use. Perceptual is probably the most used rendering intent for printing, though Relative Colorimetric also has a place - see this article (external link) for more details on that. Make sure you choose the same rendering intent that you soft proofed with in Print with Preview, also that Black Point Compensation is selected and Preserve RGB Numbers unselected.

When you've got the right Proof Setup, it's a case of using View -> Proof Colors and possibly View -> Gamut Warning to view the results. Soft proofing is no substitute for printing (especially if your monitor calibration isn't spot on), but it gives you an idea before printing.

David




  
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crn3371
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Feb 04, 2006 15:06 |  #11

Using Adobe gamma, and following the steps outlined @Steve's digicams, I'm getting prints from my ip8500 that are so close to my monitor that I haven't had the need for a colorimeter. I'm printing from PSE3, but I've got to assume that CS2 shouldn't be much different. Make sure your monitor has had a good hour or so to warm up before running any calibration, and keep the lighting at your workspace consistant. Good luck. Sometimes we get lucky with prints matching our monitors, sometimes it takes a lot of ink, paper, and trial and error to get it right.




  
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MartinL
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Feb 07, 2006 16:05 |  #12

thanks for the replies and support

David - the proof set up is really useful thanks - whilst it gives a better indication the fact is that when printing I still got too much red even though I reduced the red content (via levels) - I don't know if this is the best way or indeed if its better to alter the printer settings by reducing the red content

I'll keep having a go tho




  
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vjack
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Feb 07, 2006 16:36 as a reply to  @ MartinL's post |  #13

I've never had to reduce the red in the printer settings - doing it in PS always takes care of the problem. I wonder if something is off with your printer settings?



Canon 20D
Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
Sigma 18-125mm f/3.5-5.6 DC
Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di LD
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L

Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6
L IS
Canon Speedlite 430EX
Manfrotto 3021BPRO; Kirk BH-1 ballhead
Canon Pixma 4200
< see my gallery (external link) >

  
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MartinL
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Feb 08, 2006 01:16 |  #14

VJack - this sounds plausable - how do I check the printer settings? when I open printer properties I switch the colour adjustment to manual and print type to none so as to let PS control colour management

Is there a new driver avaible? I couldn't find one




  
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vjack
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Feb 08, 2006 06:15 as a reply to  @ MartinL's post |  #15

On my way to work now. As soon as I get some free time at home, I'll print a photo after walking through all my usual steps and taking notes on what I do. While it is possible that there is something wrong with your printer, I am guessing that there is a step somewhere that I'm forgetting about that might make a difference. In the meantime, make sure your settings look like those in my post here: https://photography-on-the.net …hp?t=69463&high​light=4200



Canon 20D
Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
Sigma 18-125mm f/3.5-5.6 DC
Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di LD
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L

Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6
L IS
Canon Speedlite 430EX
Manfrotto 3021BPRO; Kirk BH-1 ballhead
Canon Pixma 4200
< see my gallery (external link) >

  
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Pixma i8500 + CS2 + red cast print
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