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Thread started 06 Jan 2014 (Monday) 12:25
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Questions on ND Filters

 
MalVeauX
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Jan 06, 2014 12:25 |  #1

Heya,

I'm ND filter shopping for things in the 67 & 77 mm ranges.

I'm thinking about just going straight to the near 10 stop filters for really long exposures and for super bright conditions. I live in Florida and weather can be all over the place, but one thing that remains is that it's super bright even when it's cloudy out and it's too easy to blow out exposure. I've thought about some 3 and 5 stop filters. But I seem to always come back to the 9~10 stop filters to grab more exposure time.

Basically looking at two real world functions:

1) Landscape / Scenic on a short focal length, long exposure. From moving water, still water, beaches, rivers, springs, to landscape, treescape, etc. Here's where I think I want the 10 stop filter for long exposures (like 15~30 seconds as a possibility in some cases, more extreme).

2) Outdoor portraits and group shots. Thinking more along the lines of the 3 and 5 stop range so I can retain the depth of field with F2~4, but without the over exposure while out in the sunlight. Not everyone can always be good to go, with our crazy weather, at the best times of the day, natural-light wise. Will probably also couple with a flash from time to time for backlit moments and to get rid of shadows on faces.

Looking at this filter:

Hoya ND 400, 9 stop (external link)

Mainly for use with my 35mm F2 IS and 70-200 F4L. Both are 67mm filter size. So this would rotate between those for landscape and some portrait stuff (less portrait with a 9 stop filter, but still an option for creativity with a high flash).

I'm trying to figure out what this filter is though. (external link) I can't seem to understand what stopping power it is. It's cheaper so I imagine it's not a high stopping piece of glass. Or maybe it's lesser quality. I'm not sure. I'm just shopping and trying to figure it all out. New to ND filters in general.

Any suggestions for quality ND filters?

Looking for:

67mm, need both the 3~5 stop & a 9~10 stop.
58mm, maybe one in the 3~5 stop area.
77mm, only need a 9~10 stop.
3~5 stopping power for portrait and high light situations outdoors.
9~10 stopping power for creative landscape.
Flash is probably going to be used for portraits with the 3~5 stop filter.

Not married to Hoya. Would like to look at the $50~100 ranges.

Any suggestions? Tips? I tried looking for a "ND filter guide" but didn't come up with anything that fleshed out the questions I had.

Very best,


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HBOC
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Jan 06, 2014 13:07 |  #2

I have had two ND filters before - but don't use filters anymore as I see no need (for my needs) for them.

B+W 10 stop and Lee Big Stopper. The B+W I paid like $100 for, but I think they are a little more than that..


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MalVeauX
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Jan 06, 2014 17:37 |  #3

Heya,

No commentary on the above filters, other than B+W or the Lee Big Stopper? Trying to figure out terminology on some of these things so I can even figure out how many stops one is.

Very best,


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Snydremark
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Jan 06, 2014 18:20 |  #4

Did you read through the Filter FAQ here? https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1024244

Beyond that, I'd dial your spread on various sizes back and save yourself some sanity. If you're really going to go for it, get panel filters; either Lee if you can, or Cokin/Hitech otherwise. That way you can buy single filters and use them on ALL of your lenses simply by getting individual adapter rings for the holder (which are MUCH cheaper than individual filters :D ).

If you're set on going the 'screw-on' route, figure out the largest filter thread you have and buy for that, then purchase step rings for the smaller lenses (and, a couple of dollars on a set of filter wrenches).

As far as what number indicates what number of stops, go check out the matrix in this article:
http://en.wikipedia.or​g/wiki/Neutral_density​_filter (external link)
You'll see there that ND8 equates to a 3 stop filter


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
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MalVeauX
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Jan 06, 2014 18:57 |  #5

Snydremark wrote in post #16583442 (external link)
Did you read through the Filter FAQ here? https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1024244

Beyond that, I'd dial your spread on various sizes back and save yourself some sanity. If you're really going to go for it, get panel filters; either Lee if you can, or Cokin/Hitech otherwise. That way you can buy single filters and use them on ALL of your lenses simply by getting individual adapter rings for the holder (which are MUCH cheaper than individual filters :D ).

If you're set on going the 'screw-on' route, figure out the largest filter thread you have and buy for that, then purchase step rings for the smaller lenses (and, a couple of dollars on a set of filter wrenches).

As far as what number indicates what number of stops, go check out the matrix in this article:
http://en.wikipedia.or​g/wiki/Neutral_density​_filter (external link)
You'll see there that ND8 equates to a 3 stop filter

Perfect, thank you. This is the info I was looking for!

And I absolutely like the idea of using a single panel filters. I'll look into that.

Very best,


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Snydremark
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Jan 06, 2014 19:04 |  #6

One, additional suggestion that I have if you go the panel route is to only buy graduated NDs and skip the solid ones. The grads (best with hard graduations) can simply be pushed farther down in the holder to act like a solid ND, while still having the utility of being graduated.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
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MalVeauX
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Jan 06, 2014 19:42 |  #7

Heya,

Thanks Snyderemark, that's smart. I like it.

Looking through the filters, man, expensive. I like the idea, long term, of the panels. But the Lee plate holder, and three adapter rings to put it on, plus even just 3 plates (10 stop, 3 stop, and a CPL plate) is already over like $500 for that. Tough to bite that, as that's an entire new lens for me. I know it's worth it in the long run though, since I can use it on literally any lens in my future, and all lenses. I like the idea of it a lot more than screw on filters too.

Looks like the cheaper plate system is a lot cheaper, but I'm worried it's quality is just not worth putting in front of my lenses. I'm very much aware of the pay for what you get, type thing. Learned the hard way with other filters which were awful and ruined a lot of otherwise good photographs when I finally got to look at them (cheap polaroid filters, ugh, what a mistake).

But it's also very expensive for me right now.

Gonna keep shopping. I want the Lee stuff. But I might need to look at the Cokin stuff instead. I'm an amateur photographer and enthusiast, but not "best" enthusiast and not making any sort of living from this (more like a portion of my living funding it... bleh hah).

Thinking out loud:

Lee Foundation Kit/Filter holder: $88
58mm, 67mm and 77mm rings for adapting to that holder: $30 a piece ($90)
Big Stopper 4x4 (10 stop): $150
CPL 4x4 (2 stop): $60ish?
Lee 4x4 (3 stop): $80~110

That plate holder can hold 2 plates at the same time right? So I can stack the 10 stop and the CPL together?

Does anything come close to this for, like, half that? Tall order I'm sure. But who knows, worth asking.

Very best,


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Snydremark
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Jan 06, 2014 19:54 |  #8

You do, ultimately, get what you pay for; but, while the Cokin/Hitech system has a reputation for having more color casts, etc than the Lees, they're still fine filters and plenty of people get great images with them every day.

As far as the Lees go:
1. Get the "wide angle" adapter rings, not the 'standard' ones. That way you can use them across the entire variety of your lenses, even if you go FF and wide
2. By default, the foundation kit holds 2 filters, but you can add a third holder spot to it
3. As far as additional filters go, outside the Big Stopper and the 4x4 CPL, you'll want to look at 3 stop and 2 stop filters. Unless you know you're going to be shooting, mainly, seascapes with flat horizons, get "soft" grads to start; those allow a little finer control over where the grad sits and how strong the effect is.

I'd suggest a 3 stop and 2 stop grad to start with; probably soft on both, but if you want to play with the differences, get the second one as a hard grad. I've got the "kits" that have 1, 2 and 3 stop grads in both formats and the single stop ones have been very nearly useless in the time I've had them. But being able to mix/match 2 to 3 stop grads is great.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
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Snydremark
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Jan 06, 2014 19:55 |  #9

also, be aware that actually GETTING the CPL and Big Stopper can be tricky; supply is low and demand is astronomical.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
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MalVeauX
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Jan 06, 2014 21:08 |  #10

Hrm,

Definitely getting myself all into a pickle here.

I know for sure I want a high stop ND filter for water, ocean, bright sunny field days, etc. I will most likely use my Tokina, so 77mm there. I would probably also use my 35mm for places where I can't get close enough (rivers) without risking the water, and it's 67mm. I definitely don't need a 10 stopper for my other lenses. At best, a good CPL will probably cover me with its 2 stops of light. Those are not that expensive. The question comes in when I want to do something like a 3~5 stop setup when it's bright, but not ultra bright, and I can't go 30 seconds, but need to sit around 5~10 seconds.

I totally see having a few plates to stack as being a real big advantage. 3 stop, 5 stop, 10 stop. A soft grad ND that is 5 stops or so. CPL filter. With wide adapters to make it work on any lens without showing up in the photo. But $500~600 for this is getting really steep.

I may have to just settle on a simple screw on filter for one or two lenses and stop there until I see just how much I end up making use of it. I'd hate to buy in at $600 and then rare use it.

Very best,


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Van ­ Gogh
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Jan 06, 2014 22:01 |  #11

Hey guys looking on buying an ND filter for canon's 50mm f1.8.
Are variable ND filters good enough or fixed ND filters are much better quality wise?
Would this be a good choice?
http://www.ebay.ca …ash=item1c279f2​5e9&_uhb=1 (external link)


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Snydremark
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Jan 06, 2014 22:02 |  #12

Honestly, if you're not already itching for grads, we've probably gone off in the weeds.

Just look at a holder + rings, CPL and the Big Stopper or an equivalent for now. and worry about NDs/Grads down the road.

Alternatively, as long as you keep in mind some limitations (not good on UWA shots, for example), a simple variable ND might be a good way for you to get your feet wet and figure out your ultimate needs.

Hoya makes one that shouldn't break the bank @$138 (external link)

Light Craft Workshop does one that's pretty well received @ $130 (external link), as long as you are sure to get the MkII version

As well as others in a variety of price ranges. You will have a few tradeoffs, primarily with a cross-hatching pattern at wider angles (above around 20mm on a crop/35mm on FF); but, it's a non-wallet killing way to get started with ND shots.

You can still go the screw-on route and stack them, but I keep steering away from that because you'll quickly start running into vignetting issues


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
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MalVeauX
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Jan 06, 2014 22:12 |  #13

Heya,

Interesting. I like that Hoya variable ND. Interesting. I would buy it without hesitation just based on it's stopping variables. But I'm worried about the quality. Definitely don't want some cross-hatching pattern. My 77mm lens is a 11-16mm, pretty wide angle. And my other is the 35mm with a 67mm filter.

Still, I'm quite interested in that Hoya variable filter.

Though if I could get a plate setup for $200, with similar stops, I would go for that probably.

I'm also curious, how does it work if you get one that is 77mm for example, and then use an adapter to make it also fit on 67mm and 58mm? Is that possible? So that a single filter could cover all those lenses basically? Then I wouldn't mind springing for a good filter that gives me a ton of options and travels between lenses.

Very best,


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Snydremark
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Jan 06, 2014 22:29 |  #14

Yes, if you were going to go for the variable, that's exactly what I'd suggest (and again, the couple of bucks for a set of filter wrenches); using step rings with filters that have a rotating element [vari-nds and cpls] can be tricky when trying to get them apart.

As for quality filters, Hoya's one of the best; I wouldn't worry about them on that front

Unfortunately, that 11-16 is almost guaranteed to give you the crosshatching at least part of the time [SEARCH the forums here for variable ND and pattern for more info and several examples]


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (R5, RF 800 f/11, Canon 16-35 F/4 MkII, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
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MalVeauX
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Jan 07, 2014 00:49 |  #15

Heya,

Yea, forget that. I don't want that "X" stuff. If I want to drop her to 10 stops and go full on into the Florida sun at the beach, I don't want an "X" to remind me of it later.

The more I'm reading, the more it looks like I'm doomed in terms of using a screw-on filter for my 11-16mm Tokina. Looks like that wide requires a big plate in front of it to really work right. I could use the screw-on filters on my 35mm and 70-200mm, but I'm less likely to use them for long exposure day shots of water/beach/landscape/​etc, as I prefer ultra wide for that. Granted, we're talking 25mm full frame equivalent view at 16mm on my crop. Not sure if that matters for anything here.

I guess I'm back to experimenting with a plate setup.

Maybe something less expensive than the Lee. I really like the idea of being able to stack filter plates for a desired stop range and CPL. Like a 3 stop, 6 stop and 8-or-9-or-10 stop. Then a CPL. Is it possible to basically do a 3 stop, 6 stop and a CPL for a combined 11 stop setup that will look good? That would be a lot easier and cheaper than getting a full on 10 stop. But then again, would three of these stacked result in awful image quality?

Looking at HiTech real quick, just to see if it's worth while. Don't know about the quality though.
The 100mm (4x4) holder: $60
77mm wide angle adapter ring: $50
0.9, 3 stop 100mm (4x4) ND filter (solid): $70
3.0, 10 stops is about $140.

I don't even see 6 stops from HiTech. Weird. Also, I don't see polarizing plates.

Any ideas?

Very best,


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