Speedlights or monolights?

Aki78 wrote in post #16607652
Don't overspend in the beginning honestly. Get a decent light stand, Yonguno lights and large umbrella like white/silver to shoot through or bounce.

This is just a different perspective, but from my experience, buying less and then more later is a waste of money. Every single time I've "cheaped out" on anything, I've regretted it and gone back to buy the more desirable (or in some cases better) item. So my advice is that if one has the budget, just get the best they need (and even want) right off the bat. If budget is an issue, then it's a different story.

SunTsu wrote in post #16607750
This is just a different perspective, but from my experience, buying less and then more later is a waste of money. Every single time I've "cheaped out" on anything, I've regretted it and gone back to buy the more desirable (or in some cases better) item. So my advice is that if one has the budget, just get the best they need (and even want) right off the bat. If budget is an issue, then it's a different story.

Considering that you can scale up the kit and continue to use products you already it doesnt have to be an either/or proposition. If he were locking into one brand exclusively never to change that would be different. But an inexpensive YN flash can work well with a canon speedlite later.

gonzogolf wrote in post #16607765
Considering that you can scale up the kit and continue to use products you already it doesnt have to be an either/or proposition. If he were locking into one brand exclusively never to change that would be different. But an inexpensive YN flash can work well with a canon speedlite later.

My comment wasn't directed at brand x vs brand y as much as it was about "overspending". Saving money in the short run can sometimes cause things to cost more in the long run.

SunTsu wrote in post #16607771
My comment wasn't directed at brand x vs brand y as much as it was about "overspending". Saving money in the short run can sometimes cause things to cost more in the long run.

Understood. But these types of kits are scalable. No need to buy 3 flashes with the first order if you can ease into the hobby with one. This hobby is littered with the empty wallets of enthusiasts who spent a lot initially only to find that studio work didnt suit them after all.

Just me, but if you want remote power control/setting capability and HSS, get 568s and the 622s. If you wanna save cash and are willing to go manual-only, get the YN-560IIIs and RF-603 IIs.

While you can use the 622s as if they were 603s, by the time you can afford TTL flashes to take advantage of them, you might want the RT system or studio strobes instead.

You want the new 603ii triggers over the old Mk I 603s because they moved the on/off switch to the side of the unit where you can actually operate it when a flash is mounted on one as a receiver; added locking rings; added PC sync input capability so you can trigger one as a transmitter via the PC sync port (i.e., cable it to the camera to free up the hotshoe, cable it to a light meter, or pop an optical slave on there and trigger your off-camera lights with the built-in on a P&S camera, etc.); added a Tx/Rx mode switch so the things can be used in hand to get light meter readings, and can also be used on non-Canon hotshoes.