I need to confirm some lighting stuff before i splurge..

Okay, i'm looking to get a 430exii and the yn-622C triggers. If i mount them on my camera, by right i'm able to trigger it off camera right? Does it work this way or i have to have them in line of sight which i found out yesterday between my speedlites which i've loaned?

I happen to use the same. Right now just a pair of 430 EXII and 2 sets of the Yongnuo 622c. Simply, they're wireless radio signal transceivers. So you don't need line of sight. Put one of the triggers on your camera, this acts as the transmitter. Put your flash on another trigger, which will then act as the receiver. You will need to take a little time to read about the Youngnuo 622c. A few threads down in the Yongnuo YN-622c Thread you can look in CliveyBoy's sig for a link to a fantastic PDF document he's published that will help you fully understand them.

Right thanks! i'm planning to use them in a softbox for some portraiture but i'm not pretty sure whether it will work!

Ev0d3vil wrote in post #16595631
Right thanks! i'm planning to use them in a softbox for some portraiture but i'm not pretty sure whether it will work!

Yep, should work. Yongnuo is one of the great affordable answers to Pocket Wizards.

So it works this way am i right? One trigger on my camera hotshoe, a receiver under each flash that I want to have them? So in a way, they're acting like masters to the flashes then?

Ev0d3vil wrote in post #16595653
So it works this way am i right? One trigger on my camera hotshoe, a receiver under each flash that I want to have them? So in a way, they're acting like masters to the flashes then?

yes.

BTW, what camera are you shooting?

windpig wrote in post #16595671
yes.

BTW, what camera are you shooting?

T2i/550D. Will it be okay?

Yes, but use a shutter speed of 1/125 or 1/160 max in order to avoid a slight black bar at bottom or right of frame.

Dave Jr wrote in post #16595896
Yes, but use a shutter speed of 1/125 or 1/160 max in order to avoid a slight black bar at bottom or right of frame.

AH oh dear, why is that so? How about if i decide to use HSS?

Ev0d3vil wrote in post #16595901
AH oh dear, why is that so? How about if i decide to use HSS?

I'm curious about the answer to that too as I use the 622c's and have never had an issue with max sync speed (60D). Yongnuo's cheaper manual triggers limit sync speeds but the 622c should not, and for me do not, limit the max sync speed. 1/250 and no shutter curtain in the photo

The 430ex II is capable of HSS so you will have no issues with HSS with them and your camera as well

Is the YN622C compatible with the 420EX?

gremlin75 wrote in post #16595991
I'm curious about the answer to that too as I use the 622c's and have never had an issue with max sync speed (60D). Yongnuo's cheaper manual triggers limit sync speeds but the 622c should not, and for me do not, limit the max sync speed. 1/250 and no shutter curtain in the photo

The 430ex II is capable of HSS so you will have no issues with HSS with them and your camera as well

Flash sync speeds vary from camera to camera. My 7D syncs up to 1/320 whereas the 5D II syncs to 1/160. I can't confirm the sync speed on the t2i but I am sure Dave knows what he is talking about. Only one way to be sure though. TRY IT.

The 622c with any camera has a slight signal delay. You won't quite get a clean frame at 1/200th using a 5dII or 5dIII. Whatever your camera's max sync speed is, you'll need to drop the shutter speed a bit to allow for the delay. Either that, or frame more loosely so you can crop out the shutter shadow. I'm not sure what the max shutter sync is for a T2i, that is why I suggested either 1/125 or 1/160. As Ryan mentions, try it and see. The best way to see the speed at which shutter shadow becomes an issue is to shoot a white background and start at max sync, and lower down incrementally until the shadow is gone.

BTW, when I first received the 622c's, I was happily clicking away at 1/200th and would have sworn that there was no shutter shadow. You won't notice it in many shots, but that does not mean it is not there. Shooting on white will make it much more apparent.

I have the T3i and my max sync speed is 1/200th. I use the 622c with a YN 565 ex and I have not seen the shutter curtain even at max sync speed. I don't know if the system compensates for the sync or what. But I have, so far at least, not had to cut back my shutter from max to keep the shutter curtain out of the image.
Can others using the 6D or the 5D II or 5D III confirm as I am looking to get a second body and those are the three I am considering. I want to see if others see problems with those bodies and the 622c flash set up.

sirquack wrote in post #16601814
I have the T3i and my max sync speed is 1/200th. I use the 622c with a YN 565 ex and I have not seen the shutter curtain even at max sync speed. I don't know if the system compensates for the sync or what. But I have, so far at least, not had to cut back my shutter from max to keep the shutter curtain out of the image.
Can others using the 6D or the 5D II or 5D III confirm as I am looking to get a second body and those are the three I am considering. I want to see if others see problems with those bodies and the 622c flash set up.

The max sync on a 6D is 1/160. Many 5D and 5DII users have reported having issues above 1/160 when using any brand of wireless triggers as any delay in triggering catches up with the larger shutter.