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Thread started 15 Jan 2014 (Wednesday) 12:19
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LR Help Wanted: Trouble fixing greenish yellow faces

 
glasllyn
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Jan 15, 2014 12:19 |  #1

I'm relatively new to Lightroom and, at a school concert, I got a lot pre-show shots in the cafeteria, where the light was just gross (fluorescent). Many of the kids look like aliens with jaundice, having a yellow/green cast that I cannot get rid of! I've spent way too much time on this to get such poor results. I've tried:
- Adjusting the tint, temp, saturation, and vibrance
- Using the adjustment brush to correct only problem areas
- Swearing
and some other things. I shot in RAW, so I can adjust as needed, if I could only figure out what IS needed! I would be grateful for any advice! Thank you!

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nathancarter
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Jan 15, 2014 13:23 |  #2

You could try using the eyedropper on the white shirt - assuming that they're actually white. That should get you kinda close to a starting point. I sometimes like to give a smidge more warmth (50-200K) than neutral, for more pleasing skin tones.

Brush on a tiny amount of negative clarity and negative saturation (and maybe a little added exposure) with the adjustment brush, then put back in a more pleasing skin tone with the color picker on the adjustment brush. The right color varies by subject and by photo; a lot of times it's way more green than you might expect - especially when you're trying to get rid of green. Put your adjustment in place first, THEN slide around the dropper inside the color picker window, until you find something that looks pretty good.

High ISO under crummy lighting, it's really tough to get pleasing skin tones right out of the camera. Continuing to swear can only help.


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mike_d
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Jan 16, 2014 02:12 |  #3

What was your shutter speed? With fluorescent, you have to be careful to use a multiple of the line frequency, 60Hz in North America. 1/30, 1/60, 1/125. Deviate from that and you'll catch partial cycles and get some really bad color casts which vary with each shot. As long as I stick to those shutter speeds and don't crank the ISO to the moon, I find the florescent preset gets me pretty close.




  
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Wilt
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Jan 16, 2014 06:36 |  #4

nathancarter wrote in post #16608147 (external link)
You could try using the eyedropper on the white shirt - assuming that they're actually white. That should get you kinda close to a starting point. I sometimes like to give a smidge more warmth (50-200K) than neutral, for more pleasing skin tones.

This is a good start, but OP also needs to understand that what we think of as 'white' often is not exactly white from a color balance point of view! Also, the eyedropper unfortunately does no averaging of values within a certain size window, so the adjustment done will vary simply by which single pixel is under the eyedropper! As a result, you can get differing results...here are six different results (including OP's own version):

IMAGE: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i63/wiltonw/fluorescentbal_zps7110b130.jpg

So which one do you like?!

So the difficulty is NOT necessarily YOU! We are limited by our tools, and by the deficient color spectrum in the light given off by fluorescent tubes. The exact phospors in the coatings of different brands and models of bulbs all render differently, so there is no universal truth about color balance under fluorescent light.

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AZGeorge
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Jan 18, 2014 09:37 |  #5

It's easy to adjust the color temperature in Adobe Camera Raw.

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tzalman
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Jan 18, 2014 11:53 |  #6

Also, the eyedropper unfortunately does no averaging of values within a certain size window, so the adjustment done will vary simply by which single pixel is under the eyedropper!

This is not true, The minimum area sampled by the probe is 5x5, 25 pixels, and in LR4/5 can be enlarged up to 17x17, 289 pixels.


Elie / אלי

  
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Wilt
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Jan 18, 2014 12:13 |  #7

tzalman wrote in post #16615828 (external link)
This is not true, The minimum area sampled by the probe is 5x5, 25 pixels, and in LR4/5 can be enlarged up to 17x17, 289 pixels.

I still use LR3, and the increase of the window size does nothing to altering the WB settings, when you have the identical single pixel chosen.
This characteristic has been discussed on POTN before.

I just did this experiment...WB value from this small window is exactly the same as the much larger WB value of this large window which includes pixels which should severely bias the resultant WB settings. You can see by the values displayed, that the exact same center pixel is used within both sample windows, and the Temp and Tint values at the right are unchanged.

IMAGE: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i63/wiltonw/smwindowWB_zpsa891c8f6.jpg

IMAGE: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i63/wiltonw/lgwinWB_zps3120e072.jpg

Elie posted about LR4 being better https://photography-on-the.net …hp?p=14521756&p​ostcount=9
but I have not upgraded simply because LR4 requires Windows 7 SP1, and like many other folks, the SP1 upgrade will not properly install on my computer! A suitably done test (not simple to pick the exact same pixel within different size windows!) by someone with LR4 would confirm or deny the desired window sample size effects.

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tzalman
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Jan 18, 2014 18:06 |  #8

Here ya' go.

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Elie / אלי

  
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Wilt
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Jan 18, 2014 19:01 |  #9

tzalman wrote in post #16616640 (external link)
Here ya' go.

That musta been a JPG image, RAW adjustments show K values for Temp (at least in LR3), not '+100' ! But I see the sample window size appears to change in LR4.


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tonylong
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Jan 22, 2014 00:18 |  #10

Besides using the eyedropper tool to "average" the White Balance or the White Balance sliders, the only two things I can suggest for "uneven" colors is to try using the HSL tools to "tone down" unwanted colors or then using the Local Adjustment brush set to White Balance to brush over sections you are not happy with!


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LR Help Wanted: Trouble fixing greenish yellow faces
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