Very noise low light high ISO pictures from 600D

Thanks for all the suggestions. I am going to read them again and again. These pics are jpegs from camera. I have RAW imags as well. I tried using EC for ETTR. Probably I should have reduced shutter speed to 1/80 instead of 1/125. I was under the impression that, I need 1/125 shutter speed in order to get sharp pictures. I did focus and recompose for some of them. I used spot metering for 2nd picture. I used shutter priority mode and kept it at 1/125. In order to use EC compensation, and DOP (stopping down to 2.0) I needed to push ISO to 3200. There are lot of blinkies with EC and spot metering. I changed it to center weighted metering mode.

khwaja wrote in post #16610749
Thanks for all the suggestions. I am going to read them again and again. These pics are jpegs from camera. I have RAW imags as well. I tried using EC for ETTR. Probably I should have reduced shutter speed to 1/80 instead of 1/125. I was under the impression that, I need 1/125 shutter speed in order to get sharp pictures. I did focus and recompose for some of them. I used spot metering for 2nd picture. I used shutter priority mode and kept it at 1/125. In order to use EC compensation, and DOP (stopping down to 2.0) I needed to push ISO to 3400. There are lot of blinkies with EC and spot metering. I changed it to center weighted metering mode.

nothing wrong with using 1/125 shutter speed. The problem was you were facing the light and using EC inappropriately which resulted in the high ISO and noise.

An example with the same sensor (60D) and lens (Sigma 30mm) but with a small amount of window light and light from a lamp facing the subject and not the photographer
(ISO 1000, 1/125)

You're focusing on one subject, so DOF wasn't really an issue, not sure why you didn't stay in the f1.4-f2 range...which would keep your ISO a couple of stops lower.

Definitely should have been in spot meter, but you already knew that Strong backlighting can always pose a problem. Manual would have been preferable, spot meter, EC -1 or so to leave some headroom (my spot metering in strong backlighting is still just a little too 'high' so EC a couple of 1/3 stops helps)

KEEP shooting in odd lighting and learning, you'll keep getting better and better

Scrumhalf wrote in post #16610689
Get a flash so that you don't have to run such high ISOs on a Rebel. Could you have shot with flash at the ceremony?

+1
i use flash even with the 6D and the 5D3
speedlites makes photos clear and sharp

watt100 wrote in post #16610803
nothing wrong with using 1/125 shutter speed. The problem was you were facing the light and using EC inappropriately which resulted in the high ISO and noise.

I agree back lighting didn't help, but using EC inappropriately? How?

OP was on the right track about ETTR. EC was absolutely required in that situation, and +1 sounds about right if OP used evaluative.

1/125s isn't excessively fast either, but sure he can push 1/60s and that would halved the ISO.

BrickR wrote in post #16610917
spot meter, EC -1 or so to leave some headroom (my spot metering in strong backlighting is still just a little too 'high' so EC a couple of 1/3 stops helps)

Can you explain the logic of that?

From my understanding if you spot meter the face it will result in perfect exposure on face. If you then dial in -1 the face will be underexposed?

How's that helping???

You need at least 1/50 for a 30 mm lens on a crop. If there is much movement, then you need higher shutter speeds. I like at least 1/80 when taking photos of people with my 35 F2 IS. For running children, much higher shutter speeds are necessary.
I like to keep ISO at the lowest level I can, with 800 doing much better than 1250. I try to stay below 1250 or 1600 if I can. The minimum appropriate shutter speed is 1/focal length x 1.6, but I can go slower for objects and I go much faster for action photos.

BrickR wrote in post #16610917
You're focusing on one subject, so DOF wasn't really an issue, not sure why you didn't stay in the f1.4-f2 range...which would keep your ISO a couple of stops lower.

Definitely should have been in spot meter, but you already knew that Strong backlighting can always pose a problem. Manual would have been preferable, spot meter, EC -1 or so to leave some headroom (my spot metering in strong backlighting is still just a little too 'high' so EC a couple of 1/3 stops helps)

KEEP shooting in odd lighting and learning, you'll keep getting better and better

I think, I tried ETR thing unnecessarily. With F2 and spot metering (no need of positive EC compensation), ISO could have been 1600 even with bad back lighting. If needed, I should have traded some shutter speed for better ISO. But i was expecting a sharp pictures even with ISO 3200 in normal view. With focus and recompose, do i need to use exposure lock (back button focus/ AE lock setting).

Yes, you have to use AE lock if you are going to focus and recompose, even if you do bbf. This is because when you push the shutter button, the camera will 're-meter the scene and your old value won't be used.

khwaja wrote in post #16611120
I think, I tried ETR thing unnecessarily.

I think you did an excellent job.

It wasn't unnecessary. Evaluative metering and dialing in + EC is perfectly fine. Granted spot metering would have worked too.

Mode of metering wouldn't change the end result. Aperture and shutter speed used would, as that would bring your ISO down.

Learn to work on the RAW file and apply noise reduction.

Most of your pictures your subject appears to be in the middle. Similarly to spot metering, I wouldn't mess with focus recompose and stick to one AF point.

TeamSpeed wrote in post #16610615
The model of camera means nothing here because the 550d and up share the same sensor as higher models. This situation is a mix of missed focus, exposure issues and subsequent pulling off exposure digitally, and possible lack of raw/jpg/post processing tools or techniques.

We really need to know how this was shot, what the raw shows if shot in raw, and how it was turned into a jpg to be shared here.

Hi TeamSpeed,
These pics are straight from camera. I focused using center AF point and recomposed for some pics. I am not using any post processing tool except DPP for adjusting basic settings.

I downloaded the second photo at full resolution and worked on it. Even the jpeg is salvageable.

You don't have 'Image Editing OK', so I can't upload the photo... If you send me a PM with an e-mail address I can send it to you.

MakisM1 wrote in post #16611188
I downloaded the second photo at full resolution and worked on it. Even the jpeg is salvageable.

You don't have 'Image Editing OK', so I can't upload the photo... If you send me a PM with an e-mail address I can send it to you.

Hi MakisM1,
I changed my profile. Please feel free to post modifed jpegs.

Scrumhalf wrote in post #16611137
Yes, you have to use AE lock if you are going to focus and recompose, even if you do bbf. This is because when you push the shutter button, the camera will 're-meter the scene and your old value won't be used.

Thanks Scrumhalf. I will set back button / shutter half press setting to AF / AE Lock.

I see Image editing OK up. Here is a 100% crop from your full resolution file. Obviously, I can do a lot better with the RAW file...

mgk2 wrote in post #16611149
I think you did an excellent job.

It wasn't unnecessary. Evaluative metering and dialing in + EC is perfectly fine. Granted spot metering would have worked too.

Mode of metering wouldn't change the end result. Aperture and shutter speed used would, as that would bring your ISO down.
Learn to work on the RAW file and apply noise reduction.

Most of your pictures your subject appears to be in the middle. Similarly to spot metering, I wouldn't mess with focus recompose and stick to one AF point.

I used Weighted and spot. Evaluative vs Weighted, which one is better default metering mode. Is focus and recompose method only with center AF. Spot metering area is fixed. I switched it to weighted when I am using other focus points.
Thanks