Advices please...

Hi guys,
Need help on this kind of shots and alike...
I just cant attain precise focus on her eye, the point was aimed at the center of her right eye, iso 1600, f4.5, 1/30, handheld 70d with 24 105L..

What is the best way (settings perhaps?) in dealing with focusing eyes both in zoom and portraits? With this one, I tried a fast shutter speed but Im getting under exposed results, and dont want to use High ISO neither... I used a 150 watts halogen light for this one...

Thanks in advance...

Jiggo

Assuming you (and the model) are standing perfectly still (most people sway back and forth a little when standing still, and you're using a slow shutter speed... 1/30), and you haven't focused on her eye lashes... perhaps you need to micro adjust your lens; it's possibly front-focusing.

Also, and off topic, I'd adjust the WB; it's too warm.

You need a flash. It has the dual effect of generally being more powerful than continuous light, but has the advantage of freezing motion.

LV Moose wrote in post #16623713
Assuming you (and the model) are standing perfectly still (most people sway back and forth a little when standing still, and you're using a slow shutter speed... 1/30), and you haven't focused on her eye lashes... perhaps you need to micro adjust your lens; it's possibly front-focusing.

Also, and off topic, I'd adjust the WB; it's too warm.

Thanks moose, the problem with 70d is it has two MFA, 1 for the wide angle and
another for the telephoto. When I try to adjust them, it gives me headaches because I just cant get the right combination of adjustments.. It seems like they are pulling each other (wide and zoom ends). Any advice on this?

About the WB, I made it very warm for a purpose. This photo will be lay outed with other photos for a wedding album... Thanks for the advice...

If you are using AF, it may also be picking up the higher contrast between the lashes and skin. The eye is much lower contrast. Try manually focusing and if this does not improve things, then try micro adjusting the lens as Moose has suggested.

gonzogolf wrote in post #16623724
You need a flash. It has the dual effect of generally being more powerful than continuous light, but has the advantage of freezing motion.

Thanks. Bounced?

Jiggo0109 wrote in post #16623770
Thanks. Bounced?

Yes, depending on the quality of light you want and the effect you are trying to achieve. Bouncing, using a light modifier such as an umbrella or softbox for off camera flash are all options.

Lowner wrote in post #16623760
If you are using AF,...

Which AF? Is the focus locking so that if you move a little or she leans a little you lose focus? I use AI Servo to try to avoid that.

You wouldn't need AI Servo for a portrait. I was once told, "use AI servo only when hanging out of a jeep at 70 miles per hour while trying to take pictures of the cheetah that's running alongside you."

That's a bit extreme, but I like the mental image that the scenario produces.

id move to a brighter location and shoot. iso 1600 at f4.5 1/30 yikes! or i'd use flash like suggested, bounced or in box/umbrella

cpam.pix wrote in post #16624020
You wouldn't need AI Servo for a portrait. I was once told, "use AI servo only when hanging out of a jeep at 70 miles per hour while trying to take pictures of the cheetah that's running alongside you."

Same here. Useful for F1 cars or MotoGP bikes.

PhotosGuy wrote in post #16623879
Which AF? Is the focus locking so that if you move a little or she leans a little you lose focus? I use AI Servo to try to avoid that.

I use AI Focus most of the time, one shot for my wide angle shots... I am not quite comfortable with AI servo (dont know why). I am just use to locking a focus area...

Jiggo0109 wrote in post #16624967
I use AI Focus most of the time, one shot for my wide angle shots... I am not quite comfortable with AI servo (dont know why). I am just use to locking a focus area...

+1
I use AI Focus all the time shooting my kids at f/1.4. I always think of it in terms of movement relative to the depth of field. When your working with 1/4 inch focal plane after any movement (think breathing) I want the camera to adjust focus. If you listen to the lens you can actually hear it adjusting when "no nothing is moving".

Speed up your shutter a little and shoot at f/4 with that lens for thinnest depth of field.

cpam.pix wrote in post #16624020
You wouldn't need AI Servo for a portrait. I was once told, "use AI servo only when hanging out of a jeep at 70 miles per hour while trying to take pictures of the cheetah that's running alongside you."

That's a bit extreme, but I like the mental image that the scenario produces.

If you had, the eyes might have been sharp in the last two shots here: https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1276997

PhotosGuy wrote in post #16625722
If you had, the eyes might have been sharp in the last two shots here: https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1276997

I will also take time in accustoming myself to the AI SERVO, its not that I don't like it, it's the beep and focus point highlight is where I am comfortable to be honest... But I will definitely (I think its a must) do my best to sync in this mode... Photography is full challenges and I admire you guys on how you handle it... How I wish I could be as skilled as you are.