Which grade of ND filter for sunny enviromental protraits

Keep in mind that anything darker than 4 stops or so makes it difficult to focus and see clearly through the viewfinder.

If you want to shot your lens wide open or at large apertures during bright sunshine, just get the ND8. Seriously. I use my ND8 on my 85L (with a 5Dc) and still get close to 1/8000 ss at times. That's putting the ISO on 50 as well. So with base ISO of 100 and max ss of 1/4000, the ND4 will be a lot more useless to your needs.

InfiniteDivide wrote in post #16636833
Noted. Thanks. I am sure I do not currently need a +10 stop filter.

The only people who think they don't need a 10 stop filter are people who haven't tried 10 stop filters.

malakite wrote in post #16636875
If you want to shot your lens wide open or at large apertures during bright sunshine, just get the ND8. Seriously. I use my ND8 on my 85L (with a 5Dc) and still get close to 1/8000 ss at times. That's putting the ISO on 50 as well. So with base ISO of 100 and max ss of 1/4000, the ND4 will be a lot more useless to your needs.

That does sound like a good recommendation, I should try a ND8 first, and if I think it is too dark, I will save it for occasional use and manual focusing.

InfiniteDivide wrote in post #16637143
That does sound like a good recommendation, I should try a ND8 first, and if I think it is too dark, I will save it for occasional use and manual focusing.

Yeah.. better to be safe than sorry? If the ND8 is a stop too strong, you could always up the ISO 1 stop(which should be at the cameras lowest, if needing an ND anyways) to offset..but, if the ND4 isn't strong enough, you'd have to stop down a stop still, losing your fast/wide aperture (ie. from f/1.4 to f/2.0).

1Tanker wrote in post #16637160
Yeah.. better to be safe than sorry? If the ND8 is a stop too strong, you could always up the ISO 1 stop(which should be at the cameras lowest, if needing an ND anyways) to offset..but, if the ND4 isn't strong enough, you'd have to stop down a stop still, losing your fast/wide aperture (ie. from f/1.4 to f/2.0).

I agree. Currently I do not have a filter on it. As stated my iso 100 and 1/4000 ss
I think I should get a ND8 and then an ND4 If I buy an ND4 and it has little real effect, it's useless.

InfiniteDivide wrote in post #16637172
I agree. Currently I do not have a filter on it. As stated my iso 100 and 1/4000 ss
I think I should get a ND8 and then an ND4 If I buy an ND4 and it has little real effect, it's useless.

I have an ND2/4/8 and 400, and NEVER use the ND2, and very rarely the 4. I use the 400 a lot, and the 8 occasionally.

I've been shooting wide open in sunny conditions with a 3 stop nd filter and it's perfect for my 6D, so go for it.

davidmtml wrote in post #16634289
An ND4 is a 2-stop filter, which actually cuts the light to 1/4 of the original, and the ND8 (3-stops), means you will have 1/8 the original light.

archer1960 wrote in post #16634510
Personally, I use 3 stops. Two just isn't enough difference unless you have the money for both.

vengence wrote in post #16634860
I'll add another vote for the 3 stop. If you're at 1/2000 or 1/4000 you aren't going to notice the difference on those lens, however 1/4000 or 1/4000 & overexposed 1 stop you will.

Ok, so if I am understanding these posts correctly. You are using a 3 stop filter that is rated ND8
This gives my 1.4 shot the 'factor' for three stops light blocking therefore f 4.0 and when at 1.8 it is about equal to f 5.6
Alternatively an ND4 would convert my 1.4 shot to only a f 2.8 respectably.

InfiniteDivide wrote in post #16637502
Ok, so if I am understanding these posts correctly. You are using a 3 stop filter that is rated ND8
This gives my 1.4 shot the 'factor' for three stops light blocking therefore f 4.0 and when at 1.8 it is about equal to f 5.6
Alternatively an ND4 would convert my 1.4 shot to only a f 2.8 respectably.

For purposes of light transmission only. So it's called a t-stop not an f-stop. The aperture (and hence depth of field) doesn't change. But I think you get the idea.

Me personally if I need more than 1/4000 on ss, light is already crappy so I don't shoot. Direct sun during day time, I don't shoot either. When using strobes I typically use 3 stop filter but for 85L, I would say 4 stops at min is better.

vengence wrote in post #16637940
For purposes of light transmission only. So it's called a t-stop not an f-stop. The aperture (and hence depth of field) doesn't change. But I think you get the idea.

Absolutely. I almost added in the words T-stop yesterday Same thinking

I have a followup question. IF I wanted to leave my ND8 filter on my camera, and shoot at f1.4 throughout the day, would it be acceptable to use Exposure Compensation when needed, or would this damage my image quality? My goal would be not to install and remove then install and remove the filter very often. I avoid very bright conditions when possible, but that is why I got the ND8 in the first place.

In order to shoot a 85mm f/1.2 at f/1.2, I need a neutral density 3 stop filter, and sometimes I need a circular polarizer if 1/8000 isn't enough in the brightest days, which is extremely rare. Of course the ISO is at 100. If I'm using strobes, then I am limited to 1/250 and both neutral density 3 stop and circular polarizer are a necessity at f/1.2.

^ Good to know, thanks for the info. I alway like to compare setting, at least in my head, so I know I am thinking the right way about it. As I have stated in other threads, I do a lot of traveling and sightseeing here in Japan. While I try my best to have 'optimal lighting' for my photographs, in reality I am often at a nice location, or a destination at noon or early afternoon; far from the magic hour. It often feel like one LONG vacation living here. I enjoy travel and street photography, this should improve my photo oppotunities.