That setup works fine. If you set the flash on camera to not flash, it will do all other things it's supposed to do, like triggering the other two via radio control, it just will not emit any light. It will essentially work like the ST-E3-RT remote flash controller.
The ST-E2 works too, since the 600 EX-RT flashes support both radio control (ST-E3-RT controller) and optical control (ST-E2 controller). The two slaves have to be able to "see" the optical control signals coming from the ST-E2, though. The ST-E2 is like a flash unit, except it has a filter in front of its flash tube, and thus isn't able to illuminate the subject, just control slaves.
ST-E2 can only control slaves in E-TTL mode from the camera. You can still set the power manually, but then on the flashes themselves, not from the ST-E2. The ST-E3-RT allows almost all available modes on the flashes to be used, and also setting them up from the camera's menu system. Using a 600 EX-RT as a master gives you all capabilities from the ST-E3-RT, and then some.
Radio control is more flexible. In your situation, if that's doable, I'll go for the three flash setup you show above.
A PC sync cord is the type you connect to the port at the side of the camera, and then into a similar port on the side of the flash. But a 600 EX-RT can't work as a master to another slave if it's triggered via its PC sync port. It has to be in the camera's hot shoe to do that, or at least in a hot shoe that's extended with a cable which can transmit all signals sent to the hot shoe normally. This is due to the slave flash control being a product of a cooperation between camera and flash, not something implemented by the flash alone.