Reikan Focal with CFLs?

I am thinking of picking up Reikan Focal to check MA on my lenses. I've pretty much got my whole house converted to CFLs. Does anyone have experience with Focal using CFLs? I can't think of an obvious reason why CFLs shouldn't work. I don't know if I need to run out and get a few incandescents, or wait for a sunny day to do this outdoors (which in PDX could be two months from now! :lol.

I don't believe that CFLs would be an issue. The issue would be that you do want good and constant lighting. I have attemted to use Focal in the house, but my light in the house isn't enough to get good results. I always end up out side and in a bright shady location.

I have Reikan FoCal Professional and find it tedious and extremely inconsistent. This product is much easier, faster and MUCH more accurate!

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …ocus_Calibratio​n_Aid.html

Never heard of Reikan lenses before.

gasrocks wrote in post #16654408
Never heard of Reikan lenses before.

Never will either.

gasrocks wrote in post #16654408
Never heard of Reikan lenses before.

It isn't a lens. It's software that MA lenses if your camera has that option. ( I'm assuming you were being sarcastic. )

Thanks for the inputs! Dave, so you feel that the SpyderLensCal product is more accurate? That seems a bit counterintuitive to me, considering that there is a significant manual component to that method, while Focal purports to be automated.

Scrumhalf wrote in post #16655408
Thanks for the inputs! Dave, so you feel that the SpyderLensCal product is more accurate? That seems a bit counterintuitive to me, considering that there is a significant manual component to that method, while Focal purports to be automated.

Appearances can be misleading. It is automated but requires extensive setup with plenty of light. I've run this application back to back without touching the camera or target and had variations of 4 to 5 points. Other times the software simply freezes and says it must be restarted. There are quite a few threads here talking about this software and it's problems. With the LensAlign system you simply take a shot of the target...zoom in 10x on the camera...then adjust MFA depending where the focus point is (in front of or behind the 0). Simple, fast and accurate.

here's my set up.

cost:

- One minute to make focus target and print
- Two dollar yardstick that doubles as a sword for the kids
- Three minutes of thought for the set-up and finding my old drawing triangle
- Four minutes to set it all up
- Five minutes to get tethered and start shooting

I had a different set up with a ruler marked with 1/16 increments, but it was too much. Even with this, I really only look at the 1/4 inch marks to determine the adjustment needed.

Doing it this way has also given me a good baseline for how much focus movement I get with each click on the camera MF setting. IMO, adjusting to anything more precise than 2 or 3 clicks on the camera is a waste of time.


edit: dang it, let me rotate

oh, and i doubt you will notice much difference between incandescent and CFL. just make sure you have lots of light so you can use a fast shutter speed and low ISO, which aren't absolutely necessary, but are nice to assure you are getting a good image.

Your lens needs to be wide open. DOF is most important.

With some cameras and lenses, fluorescents do cause focusing anomalies. My 7D and 550D with the 70-200 f/2.8 and 70-200 f/4 definitely back focus. If you typically shoot in a particular type of lighting it might be worthwhile to do a quick test to see if this affects your focus accuracy too.

50/60 AC lighting may cause problems, particularly at 1/50s or 1/60s shutter speeds and multiples thereof. DC lighting will not have those anomalies.