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Thread started 14 Feb 2014 (Friday) 13:50
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2 new lenses, have shoot tomorrow, need advice.

 
digitalduck
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Feb 14, 2014 13:50 |  #1

Hi guys,

So, need some advice, I have a shoot tomorrow downtown Denver on 16th st mall.. see link below for shot examples.

http://www.acoloradoco​urtship.com/tag/16th-street-mall/ (external link)

What Im wondering is basically I have two lenses which I finally just got, in fact opened them last night. I have my Tamron 70-200 2.8 VC and Sigma 17-50 2.8 OS. I know most of the shots will be with my Tamron, but (and know it composition specific) but would I be best to leave it around 135mm (or 85mm on my crop) I know it depends on a lot of things.. However, if I would have walked in there with an 85prime or 135prime, then it would be a different story.

Also, I would prefer not to bring out my soft box bag but looks like some of these shots almost require it (see below)

http://www.acoloradoco​urtship.com …owntown-Engagement-09.jpg (external link)

I’m going to try and see if I can maybe use enough ambient to still achieve this look.. or would it be best to bring it anyway? I’m just thinking since it’s just me then transporting up and down the mall will be a pain.

Would there even be a decent time to switch to the 17-50? Say if I wanted 85mm and I just went to the 50mm range on the Sigma? Quality wise stick to the Tamron?




  
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gonzogolf
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Feb 14, 2014 14:01 |  #2

If you want that look you are going to have to have fill flash available (ideally gelled). Take a test shot (in manual mode) with the flash off to get the base exposure you want for the ambient and then let your flash do enough fill to make sure that the faces are properly illuminated. Assuming you are doing ettl, ride the flash exposure compensation to make sure the flash blends rather than overpowers the scene.

As for your lens selection, change when you need to. Dont over-think that, most of those shots are full body so perspective distortion isnt a huge concern, but the additional background blur from a longer lens might be preferable. Relax, you got this.




  
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BrickR
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Feb 14, 2014 14:25 |  #3

gonzogolf wrote in post #16689471 (external link)
As for your lens selection, change when you need to. Dont over-think that, most of those shots are full body so perspective distortion isnt a huge concern, but the additional background blur from a longer lens might be preferable. Relax, you got this.

^This

You could probably shoot the entire session with that look with the 70-200. Gelling your flash will help you balance flash with the ambient lights around, otherwise you'll end up having to get tricky with the WB ;)


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nathancarter
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Feb 14, 2014 14:33 |  #4

I would likely shoot almost everything with the 70-200, except for maybe a couple of specialty shots with the short end of the Sigma.

Since you're outdoors and likely have plenty of room to work, the 70-200 should be a great zoom range. Zoom in for faces, zoom out for full-length, without running all over the place. Downside, you'll need to speak up so they can hear posing direction.

What time of day? Unless it's golden hour, you'll almost certainly need fill light of some sort. Plan on taking the softbox(es); if you DON'T need them then count yourself lucky.


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MalVeauX
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Feb 14, 2014 15:07 |  #5

digitalduck wrote in post #16689454 (external link)
Hi guys,

So, need some advice, I have a shoot tomorrow downtown Denver on 16th st mall.. see link below for shot examples.

http://www.acoloradoco​urtship.com/tag/16th-street-mall/ (external link)

What Im wondering is basically I have two lenses which I finally just got, in fact opened them last night. I have my Tamron 70-200 2.8 VC and Sigma 17-50 2.8 OS. I know most of the shots will be with my Tamron, but (and know it composition specific) but would I be best to leave it around 135mm (or 85mm on my crop) I know it depends on a lot of things.. However, if I would have walked in there with an 85prime or 135prime, then it would be a different story.

Also, I would prefer not to bring out my soft box bag but looks like some of these shots almost require it (see below)

http://www.acoloradoco​urtship.com …owntown-Engagement-09.jpg (external link)

I’m going to try and see if I can maybe use enough ambient to still achieve this look.. or would it be best to bring it anyway? I’m just thinking since it’s just me then transporting up and down the mall will be a pain.

Would there even be a decent time to switch to the 17-50? Say if I wanted 85mm and I just went to the 50mm range on the Sigma? Quality wise stick to the Tamron?

Heya,

Use the 70-200, at F2.8 or F4. Keep the 17-50 in the bag, or on the second body, for impossible shots with the 70-200. But you should be able to do this whole thing with the 70-200.

Gels on your flash. I would just take a simple, wireless speedlite setup, with a shoot through umbrella, if you don't have gels. If you have gels, use those. The goal is to fill shadows, but not look like a flash went off, and to maintain a lot of the ambient light and tones (this affects how you use your shutter speed). I would not use ETTL. I would just test exposures in manual and set it for the scene. Use ETTL if you have no time and the shot must be right now and there's no second attempt.

For isolation, keep your subjects in open areas, not with anything behind them close by. At 200mm and f2.8, a full body composition with nothing immediately behind them will absolutely blow out the background and they will pop out nicely.

Very best,


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digitalduck
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Feb 14, 2014 15:53 |  #6

Thanks guys, yeah I actually dont have gels, its something I need to buy, but I do have my 568ex as well as a 70cm ( think) softbox and shoot through umbrella. I love all the sugestions and cant wait to shoot tomorrow, im just concerned abou the gels... however, as was mentioned, hopefully dont need them.. although I dont mind spending extra time in LR.. if I have to..but definetely something to order and get comfortable with for next time :) I just called a local shop thats actually on the mall and they have one pack of lumaquest cto gels left for $20.. might be a good investment




  
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nathancarter
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Feb 14, 2014 18:06 |  #7

CTOs will get you through tomorrow, if you're shooting in the evening under warm incandescent street lights. $20 for a set of JUST CTOs seems a little much, but that's local camera shops for you.

For Speedlights, the Rosco assortment is great. But it won't get to you in time for tomorrow.
http://www.amazon.com …25-Strobes/dp/B002SWIOOM/ (external link)


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digitalduck
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Feb 14, 2014 22:33 |  #8

Guys, couple questions.... this one ive alwasy wondered about. This pic belo was shot on a Nikon d7000 crop body but why was it should at iso 1250? To me it seems high for daytime since it was also shot at 1/250, 170mm and f3.5 Seems enough to not warrent the 1250 iso? ....or am i just acting like a really old 35 yr old and thinking that long gone are the days of only having to use is iso 100-250 to achieve low noise.

ISO Pic here (external link)

also regarding my softbos question from earlier, do you think this pic below was shot with an an OCF either softbox or umbrella or does the photographer just have a small softbox over his flash mounted on camera?

Flash picture (external link)

Granted its a 5diii 24-105 @ 58mm iso 1000 and 1/80 @f4




  
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amfoto1
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Feb 14, 2014 22:51 as a reply to  @ digitalduck's post |  #9

....this one ive alwasy wondered about. This pic belo was shot on a Nikon d7000 crop body but why was it should at iso 1250? To me it seems high for daytime since it was also shot at 1/250, 170mm and f3.5 Seems enough to not warrent the 1250 iso?

ISO Pic here (external link)

The photographer probably had it in manual mode with auto ISO... 1/250 sounds like a flash sync max speed, focal length and aperture might have been selected just because they gave the look they wanted or they've used the lens enough to prefer it slightly stopped down (I'm assuming it's an f2.8 lens, there aren't many 170mm, f3.5 lenses around any more.)

If you had an assistant or two, I might suggest you try using reflectors instead of flash. Have you looked at Monte Zucker's work or read any of his books. He was a true master of ambient light portraiture.


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digitalduck
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Feb 14, 2014 23:02 |  #10

amfoto1 wrote in post #16690392 (external link)
1/250 sounds like a flash sync max speed

amfoto1, thanks for the reply, I noticed in the metadata that that flash didnt actually fire though..yeah its a 2.8 70-200




  
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gonzogolf
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Feb 15, 2014 09:12 |  #11

digitalduck wrote in post #16690403 (external link)
amfoto1, thanks for the reply, I noticed in the metadata that that flash didnt actually fire though..yeah its a 2.8 70-200

Some ocf setups won't record as flash firing in the metadata.




  
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digitalduck
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Feb 15, 2014 11:00 |  #12

Thanks Gonzo, what is your take on the high is pic? since im outside id assuming much lower.. simply to avoid noise but if left at auto, that would made sens. Perhaps he was on AV and not M.




  
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Feb 15, 2014 11:37 |  #13

nathancarter wrote in post #16689979 (external link)
CTOs will get you through tomorrow, if you're shooting in the evening under warm incandescent street lights. $20 for a set of JUST CTOs seems a little much, but that's local camera shops for you.

For Speedlights, the Rosco assortment is great. But it won't get to you in time for tomorrow.
http://www.amazon.com …25-Strobes/dp/B002SWIOOM/ (external link)

http://store.lumiquest​.com/lumiquest-fxtra/ (external link)

Nathan. How much cheaper do you want products to be? Certainly a fair price for the product and pick up right then and there. We complain about the economy and jobs. Well jobs are provided with sales. No sales, no jobs. I would rather pay a fair price with a good economy rather than bargain basement price and being unemployed with no local economy.


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gonzogolf
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Feb 15, 2014 13:03 |  #14

digitalduck wrote in post #16691238 (external link)
Thanks Gonzo, what is your take on the high is pic? since im outside id assuming much lower.. simply to avoid noise but if left at auto, that would made sens. Perhaps he was on AV and not M.

Its problem with doing a forensic exam of a phoro like that is irs hard to know just much light he had to work with. You can't certainly reduce the shutter speed and then also reduce the ISO a corresponding amount. But when working with a longer lens and attempring to balance flash and ambient you have to be aware of not dropping the SS to the point of allowing motion blur to creep in. Also it could be a case of auto I so run amok.




  
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digitalduck
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Feb 15, 2014 21:25 |  #15

Well, small problem, had to take wife to er today, most of the day, so had to reschedule but client is totally fine with next Sunday. However, this technically gives me time to order some cto gels.

And Also I wanted to ask your opinion... if i will be moving around a lot during afternoon and then into evening, under the mall lights, would a 6x8" softbox (external link) for flash be a good idea at all? I rarely see them and it would be direct flash, albeit modified, but if moving around from location to location, even if its a block away, would this be something to look into for me instead of the 70cm softbox?

Or, as was mentioned ealier, I could use a shoot through and that would be easier to breakdown and carry to next destination.

ALSO: when looking at cto gels, just because its my first time, with street lights like the ones in question, is it really making that much of a difference whether im at 1/2 cto or cto etc?




  
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