is there an software/action to use sigma DC on full frame?

hi
i know this topic is weird and could sound very foolish
ok the point i like a lot super wide lenses

for my 5d mark 2 i use a 17-40L and 16-35L both canon

i tried to fit on my 5d mark 2 and my eos film cameras the sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM and 10-20mm F3.5 EX DC HSM ,lenses made for Aps-c sensor

well is there a software or an photoshop cs5/cs6 action/script that can auto crop and correct the lens distortion ?
like the nikon or the sony cameras http://www.dpreview.co​m/reviews/sony-alpha-a7r

i know it could be insane , useless but few days ago i had to take some shots in a narrow inside appartament ,and the 16-35L was not wild enough
i own a sigma 12-24mm F4.5-5.6 DG HSM but it's a lemon ,almost a ornament in short a bad copy

well is there a software or a way to use these DG lenses on a full frame like the 5d mark2 or the 6D ?

in short nikon and sony Crop On is made by the softare

or the better solution is use a Kenko Teleplus 1.4x PRO 300 teleconverter
https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=G7UZEwVnQZ8 but so i lost the super wilde lens
thanks

Crop sensor lenses don't work on full frame cameras, before you're even at the stage of using any software. As in they physically cannot function on them.

On some - even if they will physically fit on to the mount, you're in for a nasty surprise when you hit the shutter button as your mirror will physically knock into the end of the lens and potentially knacker it (the mirror that is).

If you look at the lenses designed for the crop sensors you'll notice that they sometimes extend beyond the mount back into the body of the camera, which they are able to do because of the smaller mirror inside the camera.

I use my Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6, Sigma 30mm f/1.4 and my Rokinon 8mm f/3.5 on both my 5DMk3 and 1DMk3. These are all lenses intended for 1.6X crop sensor bodies.

There is no problem with the mirror on my 1.3X or full frame sensor cameras striking the back of the lens in any of these combinations.

My understanding is that many (but not quite all) third party lenses that are officially intended for 1.6X crop sensor cameras, will indeed mount and safely work with 1.3X and full frame sensors without physical modification.

The confusion in the discussion is caused by these facts:
1) Canon lenses that are specifically intended for use on a 1.6X crop sensor only (called EF-S) will not physically mount on bodies with the larger sensor sizes without physical modification (and even then, there is a problem of the mirror striking the back of the lens in some lenses, at some or all zoom settings).
2) Many people commenting on the question of 1.6X crop lens use on larger sensors actually have never tried any of the combinations, and just repeat what they have read others saying.
3) Third party manufacturers state that their lenses only work with 1.6X crop sensors because they don't want to deal with disgruntled customers who buy a lens and when using it on their larger sensor camera body experience vignetting problems at some settings.

Depending on the particular lens and the sensor size, various degrees of vignetting will usually occur if lenses intended for 1.6X crop sensors are used with larger sensor size bodies even if they physically fit and operate without risk of damage.

The zoom setting on non-primes and the aperture setting on all lenses has an significiant effect on the extent of vignetting caused.

You can fit a teleconvertor between the lens and body to reduce or eliminate the vignetting. Of course, this will cost a stop of aperture and increase the focal length of the lens by 1.4X.

I did tests with both my full frame and 1.3X sensor bodies and the "intended for 1.6X crop sensor" third party lenses in my collection. The combinations I have used that are manageable from a vignetting point of view are in my opinion:

Sigma 8-16mm on 1DMk3, usable from 11 to 16mm at f/8 (effectively ~14.3mm to ~21mm). Significantly wider than if I use my 17-40mm.

Sigma 8-16mm on 5DMk3, usable at 16mm at f/8 ... since I have a 17-40mm, I don't find this combination particularly useful, but it works.

Sigma 8-16mm plus Kenko 1.4X TC on 5DMk3, usable from 11mm to 16mm at f/8 (effectively ~15.4mm to 22.4mm) ... since I have a 17-40mm, which I can correct for lens aberrations in DPP, I don't use this combination, but again, it works.

Sigma 30mm on 1DMk3 at apertures wider than f/5.6 (effectively 39mm) ... I haven't used this much, but plan to try the combination out more ... I have a 50mm f/1.4, but the combination would be my widest fast lens.

Rokinon 8mm on 1DMk3 (effectively 10.4mm) and on 5DMk3 ... I find use of the Fisheye-Hemi Plugin by ImageTrends very useful if I use the Rokinon on either body ... a nice piece of software at a manageable price.

In addition, the Adaptive Wide Angle filter in PS CC is very useful in all the cases I listed above.

Trusting you find this information of use ...

Maxdave

Maxdave wrote in post #16708438
I use my Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6, Sigma 30mm f/1.4 and my Rokinon 8mm f/3.5 on both my 5DMk3 and 1DMk3. These are all lenses intended for 1.6X crop sensor bodies.
Maxdave

thanks Maxdave very intersting answer

in short only the canon efs could damage the mirror

and the is image quality good?

thanks maxdave again!

mantra wrote in post #16724250
thanks Maxdave very intersting answer

in short only the canon efs could damage the mirror

and the is image quality good?

thanks maxdave again!

In my experience, with the lenses I personally have, there is no threat of damage, and I expect other third party lenses would be OK, too, as they have EF mounts ... I have read elsewhere on this forum that the Tokina 11-16mm can only be used at certain focal lengths, or the mirror hits the lens; I don't own it, so can't say.

The image quality with the Rokinon 8mm and Sigma 8-16mm satisfy me; I haven't tried the Sigma 30mm enough to comment.

Maxdave

Maxdave wrote in post #16726165
In my experience, with the lenses I personally have, there is no threat of damage, and I expect other third party lenses would be OK, too, as they have EF mounts ... I have read elsewshere on this forum that the Tokina 11-16mm can only be used at certain focal lengths, or the mirror hits the lens; I don't own it, so can't say.

The image quality with the Rokinon 8mm and Sigma 8-16mm satisfy me; I haven't tried the Sigma 30mm enough to comment.

Maxdave

thanks a lot Maxdave!

Here are two images taken with the Rokinon 8mm on the 5DMk3. The image is taken inside looking towards the street. The window is 230" (~5.8m) from the camera, the room is 144" (~3.7m) wide, and corner of the TV table is 50" (~1.3m) from the camera. The aperture used was f/8. I focused the lens using the distance scale, setting it at ~2.5 feet or ~0.6 m. I shot in RAW, and converted the images to TIFs using DPP. I used four TIF images, 2 stops apart, and combined them into an HDR image using HDR Efex Pro2.
The first image shows the HDR image, without any correction. You will notice the foot of the tripod visible at the bottom of this shot (I tried to shot perfectly straight and level).
The second image is after correction using Hemi-Fisheye software by ImageTrends and Adaptive Wide Angle Filter in Photoshop CC.

Maxdave

Here are two similar images taken with the Sigma 8-16mm and Kenko 1.4X DGX teleconvertor on the 5DMk3. The image is taken just like described in the last post; the camera body wasn't moved, just the lens changed. The aperture used was still f/8 (allowing for the teleconvertor's loss of one stop). The zoom was set at 10mm (effectively 14mm). I focused manually making sure the near edge of the coffee table and the far window were both in focus. I shot in RAW, and converted the images to TIFs using DPP. I used four TIF images, 2 stops apart, and combined them into an HDR image using HDR Efex Pro2.
The first image shows the HDR image, without any correction.
The second image is after correction using Adaptive Wide Angle Filter in Photoshop CC.

Using the Rokinon permitted a significantly wider view of the scene, but it took significantly longer to process the image, as it has to be run through an additional conversion process (Hemi-Fisheye). The image as captured by the Sigma/Kenko combination looks much more realistic. It is easier to use the Sigma/Kenko combination, because unlike the Rokinon, it can communicate with the camera body.

Here are two images taken with the Canon 17-40mm on the 5DMk3. Again, the image is taken just like described in the last post; the camera body wasn't moved, just the lens changed. The aperture used was f/8, and the zoom set at 17mm. The lens was focused just like the Sigma mentioned previously. Again, I shot in RAW, and converted the images to TIFs using DPP. I used four TIF images, 2 stops apart, and combined them into an HDR image using HDR Efex Pro2.
The first image shows the HDR image, without any correction.
The second image is after correction using Adaptive Wide Angle Filter in Photoshop CC.

The Sigma 8-16 plus Kenko TC certainly provides a wider view than the Canon, but the difference is significantly reduced after the images are run through the Adaptive Wide Angle filter in PS CC. Because of the ease of using the Canon 17-40, it might not be worth while to use the Sigma/TC combo, assuming you have both options; if you don't have a 17-40, then the Sigma and TC can substitute quite well for the 17-40. The image as taken by the 17-40 appears most like the real thing to my eye.

I hope the first two variations on this theme confirm to all who have not tried the combinations that at least some lenses intended for crop sensor bodies will work safely and quite well on full frames.

Maxdave wrote in post #16731601
Here are two images taken with the Canon .

wow i really love your photos