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Thread started 21 Feb 2014 (Friday) 08:51
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action shot help

 
scarolina803
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Feb 21, 2014 08:51 |  #1

OK, rookie here and need help. I take action shots of my daughter when she performs. Lighting is usually in a dark arena but she's on stage where its lit up brightly.
I've been using TV mode, but most shots are always too dark.
What's my solution to get good(not blurry) action photos?




  
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watt100
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Feb 21, 2014 08:55 |  #2

scarolina803 wrote in post #16706255 (external link)
OK, rookie here and need help. I take action shots of my daughter when she performs. Lighting is usually in a dark arena but she's on stage where its lit up brightly.
I've been using TV mode, but most shots are always too dark.
What's my solution to get good(not blurry) action photos?

post a pic, the exposure is off because:
you need a lens with a larger aperture or need to use higher ISO
or use a flash




  
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MakisM1
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Feb 21, 2014 08:57 |  #3

Best thing to start with is posting some sample photos with Exif intact.


Gerry
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gonzogolf
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Feb 21, 2014 08:59 |  #4

scarolina803 wrote in post #16706255 (external link)
OK, rookie here and need help. I take action shots of my daughter when she performs. Lighting is usually in a dark arena but she's on stage where its lit up brightly.
I've been using TV mode, but most shots are always too dark.
What's my solution to get good(not blurry) action photos?

Also tell us which camera you have. It helps to know what metering options you have.




  
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scarolina803
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Feb 21, 2014 09:18 |  #5

I'll see if I still have the bad ones. I have the Canon EOS XS just using the stock lens that came with the camera.




  
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rrblint
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Feb 21, 2014 09:26 as a reply to  @ scarolina803's post |  #6

Faster lens, higher ISO, or somehow add more light to the scene. One or more of these suggestions is called for.


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scarolina803
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Feb 21, 2014 09:31 |  #7

ok, here's a shot. I think I've got it set on 320 or perhaps 400 with an iso of 1600.

IMAGE: http://i60.tinypic.com/2zzu87c.jpg



  
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gonzogolf
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Feb 21, 2014 09:35 |  #8

scarolina803 wrote in post #16706349 (external link)
ok, here's a shot. I think I've got it set on 320 or perhaps 400 with an iso of 1600.
[/IMG]

How much brighter are the lights going to be in the place you are asking about. That shot is underxposed and there isnt much more you can do about it, given you are maxed out on ISO and probably shooting wide open. A lens with a larger aperture (think 85 1.8) would help in the shot above. If the stage is going to be brighter it might help you but the problem now is the limitations of your gear.




  
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John ­ from ­ PA
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Feb 21, 2014 09:41 |  #9

From what I see it will be difficult to get a good shot without adding some extra light, probably in the form of a flash unit. It appears ss though the subject is mid air, some form of acrobatic maneuver perhaps, so lowering the shutter speed from the stated1/320 or 1/400 is likely not an option. Try dropping to 1/250 or even 1/200 sec. Not much of a gain but every little bit helps and some sense of motion might even enhance the image. Try shooting head on as opposed to being at right angle to the directionmof motion. My tablet won't read EXIF but I suspect you are at or near wide open on the lens, but worth checking. You could try ISO 6400 if you have it but noise might be an issue, worth an attempt however. However everything is a tradeoff and a picture with some noise is better than no picture. You might even be able to cleanmit up in post processing. In that regard shoot RAW if you are familiar with post processing in Photoshop or Lightroom. If not acceptabe at ISO 6400 get an external flash.




  
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scarolina803
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Feb 21, 2014 09:49 |  #10

appreciate everyone's input.




  
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waterrockets
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Feb 21, 2014 10:26 |  #11

As John from PA suggested, you might try to move to a slower shutter speed, and either make the motion blur work for you, or shoot when motion is at a minimum. If you can time it so you're shooting at the top of a throw, she may not be moving all that much, and a 1/200 shot would be twice as bright. Other types of shots can look pretty good with motion blur, but that's a creative thing, and it may not apply to your goals. Make sure you're tracking her movement closely and naturally though.

Other than that, I think the 85mm f/1.8 would be a great move. Adding light would be great too, but there is a learning curve there.


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MakisM1
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Feb 21, 2014 11:15 |  #12

I am not sure that flash is allowed in this type of events. You don't really want to blind the performer in mid-air with your flash!

You need about 3 stops of light for reasonable photos.

There are two things you can do to improve the situation:

a) Buy a (or more than one) better lens. As suggested the 85 f1.8 will give you a little bit more reach and 3 f-stops and change. A shorter but cheaper alternative is the EF 50 f1.8. You might even consider the f1.4 Canon or Sigma.

b) In conjunction with a) you learn how to post-process your photos from RAW.

May I suggest that you change at the User CP to allow for editing of your photos (see Image editing OK under my avatar).

Here is a quick rendition of your photo. If you object my posting it, send me a PM and I will remove it.

IMAGE: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/images/hostedphotos_lq/2014/02/3/LQ_677745.jpg
Image hosted by forum (677745) © MakisM1 [SHARE LINK]
THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff.

Gerry
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Fernando
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Feb 21, 2014 11:30 |  #13

MakisM1 wrote in post #16706587 (external link)
I am not sure that flash is allowed in this type of events. You don't really want to blind the performer in mid-air with your flash!

You need about 3 stops of light for reasonable photos.

There are two things you can do to improve the situation:

a) Buy a (or more than one) better lens. As suggested the 85 f1.8 will give you a little bit more reach and 3 f-stops and change. A shorter but cheaper alternative is the EF 50 f1.8. You might even consider the f1.4 Canon or Sigma.

b) In conjunction with a) you learn how to post-process your photos from RAW.

May I suggest that you change at the User CP to allow for editing of your photos (see Image editing OK under my avatar).

Here is a quick rendition of your photo. If you object my posting it, send me a PM and I will remove it.

This is the post that explains it all. These venues are very dark. The stage only looks well lit because you're sitting in the dark. To get the light you will need to max your ISO at the very least. This will introduce noise. This leaves a faster lens and/or introducing light.

Would renting faster glass to give you more data be an option? I'm not saying track down a 200/1.8, but maybe one of the 70-200/2.8 variants out there. With the right lens you might even be able to ETTR to fight the noise (albeit slightly).


Fuji convert - Ping me if you have any Fuji gear or legacy glass you're moving.

  
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qdrummer21
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Feb 21, 2014 11:34 |  #14

I have almost the exact camera that you are using and run into similar problems quite regularly. I agree with everyone who has already stated that you've reached the limits of your gear.

At ISO1600 you have no more room to increase the exposure on this front.

This shot was at 55mm using f/5.6 which is wide open for the kit lens at the focal length. You could zoom out towards the 18mm end which would allow that lens to open up to f/3.5 giving you a little over 1 extra stop of light and then crop the image in post to get similar framing.

As mentioned, you could also try slowing down the shutter speed to 1/200 or 1/250. With proper timing you should be able to get action shots with no motion blur, or add some creative motion blur, while increasing the exposure.

All of these approaches combined puts you a little short of the approximate 3 stops that you need, and I would agree with Gerry (Makis) that firing a flash would give you the extra light you need, but it's probably not be the best idea in terms of the safety of your subjects.

Gear replacement would give you far more options on how to shoot this picture and achieving proper exposure. Either getting faster lenses, the 50mm and 85mm suggestions are great, or getting a new body with higher level ISO capabilities would do the trick. Post processing as Gerry provided an example of is also a great free option if you don't mind the added noise.




  
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DC ­ Fan
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Feb 21, 2014 13:13 |  #15

scarolina803 wrote in post #16706255 (external link)
OK, rookie here and need help. I take action shots of my daughter when she performs. Lighting is usually in a dark arena but she's on stage where its lit up brightly.
I've been using TV mode, but most shots are always too dark.
What's my solution to get good(not blurry) action photos?

Very high ISO up to 6400 and a fast lens, at f/2.8.

Examples:

IMAGE: http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r601/kevinlillard/01302014b/02212014B/20130108a0000a_zps3d729a22.jpg

Camera Maker: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 60D
Lens: 70-200mm
Image Date: 2013-01-08 19:23:05 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 70.0mm
Aperture: f/2.8
Exposure Time: 0.0013 s (1/800)
ISO equiv: 6400
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual
White Balance: Manual
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB

IMAGE: http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r601/kevinlillard/01302014b/02212014B/20130219a0000_zpsdf4d2f5d.jpg

Camera Maker: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 60D
Lens: 70-200mm
Image Date: 2013-02-19 20:00:56 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 76.0mm
Aperture: f/2.8
Exposure Time: 0.0020 s (1/500)
ISO equiv: 6400
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual
White Balance: Manual
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB

Lens was a 70-200mm f2.8. (external link)Exposure settings came from a light meter. (external link)

High ISO noise was controlled with Imagenomic Noiseware (external link) noise reduction.



  
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