NEW user with sports mode

if you can host on something like flickr or so, we can see the exif data from the image. Not visible on FB.

Sorry Here is one from tonights game I rest the camera to factory settings I left in in sports mode and it was horrible blurry so I put it in Regular shot no flash

IMAGE LINK: http://s1002.photobuck​et.com …6/media/IMG_423​6.jpg.html

Here is another would havebeen great photo

IMAGE LINK: http://s1002.photobuck​et.com …6/media/IMG_423​5.jpg.html

And One more missed 3 good shots with same issue BLurry He is my son and these are great shots any help guys let me know. I need something that will let me zoom alittle I am in the stands and have to zoom to the court

IMAGE LINK: http://s1002.photobuck​et.com …6/media/IMG_423​1.jpg.html

unfortunately I still cannot see the exif data for this image. Do you know what settings you had it on?

For certain it is not enough shutter speed but beyond that it helps to know what you are at to get you to where you need to be.

I am on a budget as well, and I went with a canon 85 f1.8 for indoor stuff. I do a lot of dog sports, and with the kit lens inside I couldn't get anything moving that was useable even to share on FB. I have a 60D and have shot a lot of dog stuff, and wrestling from stands and am often able to use 1600 is with f2-2.2 and 800-1000 for shutter speed and that can freeze most motion.

you can't zoom, but from the stands you can get good shots and then crop and they will be worlds better that what you are getting right now. It takes great pictures, is affordable, has a very fast focus. I'd recommend it for indoor sports every time.

Basketball was always one of my favorite sports to shoot, but high school basketball is a challenge because of consistently poor light. Most high school gyms are lit for cost efficiency and not photography or video, and many (at least in my area) have taken to turning-on only half the lights for most games to further save energy costs. Fast primes and pushed ISO ratings (1200 or above) were the rule, and even then you had to employ every trick in the book to grab sharp shots.

First thing is to see if you can get closer. I always had a photo pass or agreement with the coach to shoot from the sidelines. Perhaps you can talk to your son's coach and see if you can get permission to do the same in exchange for a liability waiver and free copies of photos for the school. Whether or not determines which focal length primes you will want. If you can't get sidelines access at least show-up early enough to get a front row seat behind the net. Closer is better, because the more you magnify images (either by longer focal lengths or cropping), the more any camera motion/shake will be evident.

Whether shooting from the sidelines or the stands, you want to be behind and slightly offset from the net. It doesn't really matter which net since teams change sides every period. Being behind the net means the action is coming towards the camera instead of crossing the frame. The appearance of blur is reduced when subjects are moving directly towards (or away from) the lens.

Once you've got your shooting position determined you can better choose lenses. On a crop-body camera like the T3i, I'd start with a 50/1.8 and 85/1.8. From first/second-row seats I'd go with the 85/1.8 and 135/2. Of course, faster is better if you can afford them (and available).

Shoot wide open and manual or Tv, with a shutter speed of 1/640 to 1/800. With the action heading directly to/from the lens, you can possibly even shoot as low as 1/500. Boost your ISO to whatever is needed to get correct exposures with the lens wide open at the desired shutter speed. A noisy image is better than no image whatsoever.

Choose your shots wisely. Wait for the action to come close instead of shooting mid-court or beyond and attempting to crop later. Although there's no big harm in a spray and pray approach, you'll get more consistently-good shots if you practice shooting dead-on to the action, panning the action and anticipating the moment where movement reaches a temporarily equilibrium. Shooting dead-on means waiting for the players to be moving directly towards the camera, when motion blur is minimized. With panning, you move the camera to keep the moving subject in the same place within the frame as you snap the shot. If done well, the subject will be sharp (except for some motion blur in moving arms/legs) while the background will get blurred out. Anticipating equilibrium means waiting for that moment when the player's movement almost comes to a complete stop, such as the brief moment when a charging player plants for a shot or block, or the apogee of a jump just before pumping the ball.

Then keep on practicing. Basketball is both a comfortable (being indoors) and exciting sport to shoot. The fact that your son is a major contributor to the team's success makes it even sweeter.

BTW, I see empty seats down front and behind the net. Why aren't you sitting in one?

The universal rule of sporting events is that open seats more than 5 minutes into the game are free to be filled by others. If the rightful spectator arrives later you apologize, offer to buy them a beverage and go back to your assigned seat (or another unoccupied seat).

Remember than chance favors the bold!

Hey Guys The high school sports here is sit wherever I was right behind the team bench 2 levels up.
Peanut how do I let you know it says 1/15 f4.5 ISO AUTO

I left it on Flash off all night normally when I use it in Basketball game I leave it on Sports mode but I reset to factory settings the other day and it is really bad now so I left it on regular.

alright, thats a good start to look at. Definately too low of a shutter. If I remember, you were in full manual mode.

So, do this next time.

Go to the Tv mode. Set to the lowest possible f stop you can, 3.5 if I remember correctly and then set the ISO to 1600 and choose 1/1000 as your shutter. If the image is too dark on the screen, then drop to 1/800 shutter. Keep going a slower shutter until you get to 1/400 at the very slowest. If the image is too dark, change the ISO to 3200 and start the exercise over again. 1/1000 down to 1/400 at the slowest. Again if that doesnt do the trick, move up to 6400 ISO and start again. You should find the sweet spot somewhere in there but just remember the higher the ISO, the noisier the image is. Hopefully you find something to your liking in the ISO 1600 range.You can do this all before the game starts and blow a bunch of photos on warm ups and stuff. Once you find the right balance, you should be happy.

Thanks Will try

I am sitting home now I have it on Manual ISo at 3200 f3.5 1/800

Taking pictures of my tv that is ON in a lit room and everything really dark in image

thats a bit different than a lighted arena. You really wont be able to figure this out out until you are in the same lighting conditions. Even if you can get there to pop a few shots at practice, then you will be better armed for the games. If you cant get there for practice, get there early before the game to run the exercise. You will waste images, but its digital so no biggie, just delete the bad test shots and you will be off to the races.

Well I just turned on the flash it was not popping up now they look fine Of curse I will try to get to the gym early

You will not be able to use the flash at games. Usually, flash photography is prohibited at high school events to avoid distracting the players. From a practical perspective, the built-in flash is not powerful enough to contribute useful light at the distances you're shooting.