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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 08 Mar 2014 (Saturday) 09:12
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which camera for macro insects butterflys etc,

 
Wilt
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Mar 08, 2014 11:14 |  #16

What I have seen on POTN is a misuse of 'macro' to simply indication 'closer focus', rather than the real definition pertaining to reproduction scale (e.g. 1:2 or 1:1). So my 'correction' first of all wanted to point out the fact that macro work -- at same scale -- the DOF is IDENTICAL regardless of frame size.

Yes, kfreels, you wrote in the context of different working distance (to 'fill the frame') and DOF differences do exist there.


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rick_reno
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Mar 08, 2014 11:28 |  #17

I've used a 7D, 5D and 5D2 for macro work with the 100L and 100 non-L lens. Personally, I couldn't see a lot of difference in any of the bodies used. I used the 5D most, next the 7D and lastly the 5D2. No IQ differences in the lens either, the 100L felt more substantial.




  
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kfreels
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Mar 08, 2014 11:59 |  #18

Wilt wrote in post #16743438 (external link)
What I have seen on POTN is a misuse of 'macro' to simply indication 'closer focus', rather than the real definition pertaining to reproduction scale (e.g. 1:2 or 1:1). So my 'correction' first of all wanted to point out the fact that macro work -- at same scale -- the DOF is IDENTICAL regardless of frame size.

Yes, kfreels, you wrote in the context of different working distance (to 'fill the frame') and DOF differences do exist there.

Yeah. The marketing teams for the lens manufacturers have taken that term very loosely. They tack the word to the end of the name of any lens that focuses closer than the average lens. So this misuse happens across all the boards, not just POTN. I wonder how many of the world's problems can be attributed to marketing people. :-P


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aladyforty
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Mar 08, 2014 18:31 |  #19

MMMM well i shot butterlys at the same place last year with a 1DIII in the same light, typical aussie natural lighting. I thought that the 7D may be the way to go as I wont have to get quite as close is all


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Wilt
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Mar 08, 2014 22:06 |  #20

aladyforty wrote in post #16744197 (external link)
MMMM well i shot butterlys at the same place last year with a 1DIII in the same light, typical aussie natural lighting. I thought that the 7D may be the way to go as I wont have to get quite as close is all

Yes, when you simply try to 'fill the frame' with the same FL lens, the smaller frame size means that you can be 1.6x farther away with APS-C than with FF, because the object being photographed only has to fill 15mm height (APS-C) rather than 24mm height (FF).


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Mar 09, 2014 00:42 |  #21

TeamSpeed wrote in post #16743397 (external link)
If you are going to get a flash, then you have to get a wireless setup too. A flash on a camera with a long macro lens like a 150mm won't help much, you just get casted shadows. So the only way is to either get a ring flash around the lens, or put the flash on a remote trigger. The latest Yungnuo would work well, I just picked up a set of their transceivers.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but didn't LordV shoot macro for years, with just a Speedlight and homemade diffuser?


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Mar 09, 2014 00:56 |  #22

1Tanker wrote in post #16744779 (external link)
Correct me if i'm wrong, but didn't LordV shoot macro for years, with just a Speedlight and homemade diffuser?

Correct.

And many of us still use just a speedlite and diffuser. And do just fine. No "casted shadows."

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moltengold
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Mar 09, 2014 04:45 |  #23

handheld
the Rebels bodies helps for macro works
( light weight )


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TeamSpeed
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Mar 09, 2014 06:05 |  #24

MalVeauX wrote in post #16744789 (external link)
Correct.

And many of us still use just a speedlite and diffuser. And do just fine. No "casted shadows."

Very best,

Completely depends in how close you really are and what lens. I guarantee you that going with 1:1 on a longer lens at least you get shadows from the lens.


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IanClark
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Mar 09, 2014 06:30 |  #25

I use a 7D and 100mm F2.8L lens for my Macros.

I rarely crop, perhaps just to allow for slightly better composition (bugs are not always compliant when composing a shot).

Also, I shoot 99% of the time at 1/200th - 250th, ISO 250 and f/11. Flash is heavily diffused.

Have a browse through my Macro Gallery here - http://ipc.smugmug.com …acro/Macro-7D-Canon-100L/ (external link)


Few sample images using Flash

IMAGE: http://ipc.smugmug.com/Close-Ups-Macro/Macro-7D-Canon-100L/i-Gfr6dV8/2/O/IMG_5826.jpg

IMAGE: http://ipc.smugmug.com/Close-Ups-Macro/Macro-7D-Canon-100L/i-SsxTXNL/2/O/IMG_5823.jpg

IMAGE: http://ipc.smugmug.com/Close-Ups-Macro/Macro-7D-Canon-100L/i-B3H7PWq/0/O/IMG_6529.jpg

IMAGE: http://ipc.smugmug.com/Close-Ups-Macro/Macro-7D-Canon-100L/i-xg2sGDZ/0/O/IMG_6721-2.jpg

ISO 400 on this one still using Flash
IMAGE: http://ipc.smugmug.com/Close-Ups-Macro/Macro-7D-Canon-100L/i-j4QWJsZ/0/O/IMG_6622.jpg


A Sample using Higher ISO @ 800, Natural light and very weak fill flash

IMAGE: http://ipc.smugmug.com/Close-Ups-Macro/Macro-7D-Canon-100L/i-G6365jM/0/O/IMG_6584.jpg

And just for a little difference... a couple of water splash shots using the 7D, 100L and two off camera flashes behind perspex

IMAGE: http://ipc.smugmug.com/Close-Ups-Macro/Splash-art-and-Crowns/i-s6jsL5S/0/O/2014_IMG_8427.jpg

IMAGE: http://ipc.smugmug.com/Close-Ups-Macro/Splash-art-and-Crowns/i-XwMV6z5/0/O/2014_IMG_8465.jpg

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Lester ­ Wareham
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Mar 09, 2014 06:36 |  #26

aladyforty wrote in post #16743187 (external link)
is a crop camera going to be better for taking butterfly shots than a full frame, i mean being as you can get closer with a crop, I'm assuming it will excel in this department

You list full frame and crop cameras in your sig plus the 100 f2.8L. I would suggest trying both and see how you get on, you have all the tools you need, so you just need to develop the skill set.

As noted you need less magnification with the crop and thus get more working distance. This will allow you to develop some field craft easier.

The full frame should give you better quality as long as you can get the pixels over the subject. Another advantage is lower noise, this will help if you are shooting in overcast conditions or shade.


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aladyforty
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Mar 09, 2014 09:46 |  #27

I have tried the 1DIII and 5DIII for this subject and think the results are ok although with 5DIII I had to crop in a fair bit, was just wondering if I could avoid cropping in as much with 7D allowing for a bigger physical image

5DIII

IMAGE: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2811/10935599673_5da653b015_o.jpg


1DIII
IMAGE: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5531/10726410744_8dc196aaf1_o.jpg


thanks for all the feedback everyone

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aladyforty
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Mar 09, 2014 09:50 |  #28

[QUOTE=IanClark;167449​92]I use a 7D and 100mm F2.8L lens for my Macros.

I rarely crop, perhaps just to allow for slightly better composition (bugs are not always compliant when composing a shot).

Also, I shoot 99% of the time at 1/200th - 250th, ISO 250 and f/11. Flash is heavily diffused.

Have a browse through my Macro Gallery here - http://ipc.smugmug.com …acro/Macro-7D-Canon-100L/ (external link)


you have some stunning shots


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IanClark
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Mar 09, 2014 15:20 |  #29

aladyforty wrote in post #16745226 (external link)
IanClark wrote in post #16744992 (external link)
I use a 7D and 100mm F2.8L lens for my Macros.

I rarely crop, perhaps just to allow for slightly better composition (bugs are not always compliant when composing a shot).

Also, I shoot 99% of the time at 1/200th - 250th, ISO 250 and f/11. Flash is heavily diffused.

Have a browse through my Macro Gallery here - http://ipc.smugmug.com …acro/Macro-7D-Canon-100L/ (external link)


you have some stunning shots



Thank you, I'm glad you like them. I feel they should give you a decent example as to what can be achieved with a Crop sensor camera and the Canon 100mm L (and even non-L lens) with some carefully diffused flash. :)


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watt100
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Mar 09, 2014 18:05 |  #30

I use a 60D and a $200 Tamron 90 2.8 macro non-di lens for macro shots

IMAGE: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7323/9735187411_f8fff4cd34_c.jpg



  
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