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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 13 Mar 2014 (Thursday) 06:52
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Tammy 150-600 or 400mm f5.6

 
Grizz
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Mar 14, 2014 03:52 |  #31

clarnibass wrote in post #16757286 (external link)
One of the problems is that some people claim a problem (i.e. "doesn't work in AI Servo") but don't really explain what the problem is.
Does it not try to focus at all?
Does it focus and then doesn't refocus?
Does it not focus only when moving between very close and very far away targets (some people mentioned this as the issue)?

Can you check your 7D with this lens in those scenarios to see if it always works? Especially focus on something close (even close to MFD), then, while leaving the AF button pressed, move to a distant target (even close to infinity), then back to close focus. Works just as it is supposed to?

If this works fine, then it is very strange that only some cameras of the same model have an issue with this lens. I guess it's hard to say whether the difference is with the body or the lens. Even if it's something with certain bodies, the lens should still work with them of course...

Hi Clarnibass, The 7D was borrowed from a friend. But I did try all the scenarios you mentioned. And what I found was, the only problem it had, and so does my 60D, is in the close to far and far to close AI servo use. I addressed this in another post here, it may be earlier in the thread, but going from an object say @ 300' and swinging to an object @ 20' I find that it usually will just stop, not even try until you bump the focus again. The same in the opposite direction near to far. If you go in smaller increments say from 20' to 30' to 40' and so on it works just fine and the same in the opposite direction. Does the same on the 60D as the 7D. I did not find this to be a problem, if I'm focused on an object @30' and want to shoot something @ 300' I will just aim and bump the focus button I can't think of a scenario where I would need to track something that would be @ 30' and in an instant be @ 300'. Unless I was attempting to track and arrow in flight or a bullet. But I would never keep them in the sweet spot anyway. :)


Craig * Canon 7D Mark II * 60D * 10D * Tamron SP 150-600 f/5-6.3 Di VC USD * EF 400 5.6L USM * EF 17-40 4.0L USM * EF 70-210 4.0 * EF 28 2.8 * EF 50 1.8 MK1*Flickr (external link)

  
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herculeorama
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Mar 14, 2014 07:47 |  #32

A field test on the lens here just in case you want to check out:

http://www.sumeetmoghe​.com …igron-aka-tamron-150.html (external link)


5D Mark III | S110 | Sigma 24/1.4 A | 50/1.8 | 100/2.8 Macro | 17-40/4 L | 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM | 70-200/2.8 L IS II USM | 400/5.6 L | Canon 1.4x III TC| Canon 2x III TC
jhsurti

  
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clarnibass
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Mar 14, 2014 09:15 |  #33

Grizz wrote in post #16757490 (external link)
And what I found was, the only problem it had, and so does my 60D, is in the close to far and far to close AI servo use. I addressed this in another post here, it may be earlier in the thread, but going from an object say @ 300' and swinging to an object @ 20' I find that it usually will just stop, not even try until you bump the focus again. The same in the opposite direction near to far. If you go in smaller increments say from 20' to 30' to 40' and so on it works just fine and the same in the opposite direction. Does the same on the 60D as the 7D. I did not find this to be a problem, if I'm focused on an object @30' and want to shoot something @ 300' I will just aim and bump the focus button I can't think of a scenario where I would need to track something that would be @ 30' and in an instant be @ 300'.

Thanks. What about a sitution where you are focused on something some distance away and then you have e.g. a person passting much closer in front of your camera. I can't remember how this works on all camera but the one I'm mostly using now has a setting in the menu to quickly focus on whatever is under the focus point ot to wait, exactly to prevent the lens to refocus when something/someone passes between you and the subject.

Because of the issue, I assume the lens won't refocus on the closer passing target, but will it continue to track your target after it past?


www.nitailevi.com (external link)

  
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Snydremark
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Mar 14, 2014 09:55 |  #34

clarnibass wrote in post #16757445 (external link)
Some of the posts suggest it's a more serious issue... but maybe they are just not so clear.

Probably just not clear. There is an entire raft of us that have been using this lens and going through scenarios to look at these things and those are the only, concrete, repeatable problems that have been found to the best of my knowledge.

Anything that is only repeatable by one or two shooters is much, MUCH more likely to be user error; especially out at 600mm. It's just a totally different game trying to get good shots when shooting glass that long, especially when one's only ever shot 200mm - 400mm.

clarnibass wrote in post #16757445 (external link)
I'm curious what happens if you point the the lens at AI Servo to the floor relativley close to you (far enough for MFD) and then slowly move all the way so it gradually goes from the closest AF to possibly infinity AF. Does it work then?

It works then.

clarnibass wrote in post #16757445 (external link)
If it's only a jump between close and far focus that causes the problem, I'm wondering if someone noticed how close and far it has to be?

We use distance to describe the scenario, but it *really* has to do with how far OOF the two subjects are rather than actual distance. I've been able to repro it with things as close as 15ft apart; but, if the OOF target is relatively high contrast, I've had things work normally across several hundred feet.

clarnibass wrote in post #16757445 (external link)
Since you end with "At 400, the Tamron's pretty snappy", can you clarify if when you say "it's pretty slow at full zoom (600mm) but it's pretty equal to the 100-400" you mean the tamron at 400mm or at 600mm? If it's the latter, then I understand it's faster than the 100-400mm when both are at 400mm?
Also curious, if I remember the Tamron stays at f/5.6 a little over 400mm, maybe up to around 430mm or a bit less. does the AF speed stay the same until it change from f/5.6 to f/6.3?

Sure; that could have been stated clearer. With the Tamron and the Canon at 400mm, the AF speed is very similar; with the Tamron at 600 it's notably slower, especially when it's having to drive focus from the wider end out to the long end.

My copy, at least, cuts over to 6.3 "during" 400mm; meaning that it's 5.6 right up to the change from 399-400 but changes to 6.3 just before going to 401. So, depending on how closely I'm running the focus ring, it's possible to get at 400 5.6 OR 400 6.3, just by turning the zoom ring until it changes on its own.

The slowdown on AF doesn't appear to do so much with the aperture as it does just 'length'. It stays pretty fast up to 500mm and then from 500-600 it drops noticeably.

If the requirement is primarily birds in flight, I'd pick up and use the 400 f/5.6. For pretty much everything else, and even incidental BiF, this lens remains my choice. Overall, it's quite a good lens and remains the cheapest way to get to 600mm.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (7D MkII/5D IV, Canon 10-22 f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
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fogboundturtle
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Mar 14, 2014 10:10 |  #35

Well the lens if F6.3 that's why it slower on the last end of the focal length. I would call that "working as intended".


Canon 5D Mark III, Canon 70D, Canon EF 24-105L, Tamron 150-600mm, Tamron 70-200 F2.8 DI VC USD, Sony A7r, Sony FE 55mm F1.8

  
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clarnibass
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Mar 14, 2014 11:03 |  #36

Snydremark thanks for clarying everything.


www.nitailevi.com (external link)

  
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Snydremark
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Mar 14, 2014 12:27 |  #37

fogboundturtle wrote in post #16758017 (external link)
Well the lens if F6.3 that's why it slower on the last end of the focal length. I would call that "working as intended".

f/6.3 being the cause of the slowdown is not supported there, though. The lens is f/6.3 at both 500mm and 600mm, but is slower to move to focus at 600 than 500; so something else is the root of that difference. Still "working as intended" I suspect, but it IS a difference that folks should note if they're looking for fast target acquisition.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (7D MkII/5D IV, Canon 10-22 f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
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fogboundturtle
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Mar 14, 2014 14:06 |  #38

Snydremark wrote in post #16758373 (external link)
f/6.3 being the cause of the slowdown is not supported there, though. The lens is f/6.3 at both 500mm and 600mm, but is slower to move to focus at 600 than 500; so something else is the root of that difference. Still "working as intended" I suspect, but it IS a difference that folks should note if they're looking for fast target acquisition.

a zoom lens should never be consider for a fast target acquisition. If you are into BIF, get a prime lens and be done with it. I don't think the Tamron was target audience was aimed at BIF enthusiast to begin with.

As far as I am concern, It work fine on my 5D3 and my 70D. It can track relatively well and I didn't feel like I was really struggling to acquire any shot. All of it I did handheld with an average of 1/250 to 1/320 shutter speed. That's impressive for a 600mm lens. The VC works amazingly well. Its a great lens but it is what it is. It will never replace an 600mm F4 or an 500mm F4.


Canon 5D Mark III, Canon 70D, Canon EF 24-105L, Tamron 150-600mm, Tamron 70-200 F2.8 DI VC USD, Sony A7r, Sony FE 55mm F1.8

  
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archer1960
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Mar 14, 2014 14:15 |  #39

Snydremark wrote in post #16757407 (external link)
It's this.

First hand; as I've been shooting with it from release day on a 7D:

As long as you have locked on to your subject, it follows just fine. It's the above mentioned big swing from something near and in focus to something far out and way out of focus already. In that case, you have to "bump" your focus to get it to run again.

It's not optimal and isn't the way other lenses behave, but under 'normal' shooting conditions one doesn't regularly do that with servo. It's normally used for tracking a single subject for the duration; and if a further/nearer subject is desired, focus is usually reset for that subject anyway.

There is also some wonkiness if you hit the focus ring during AF in servo; it will cancel the AF and you have to, again, "bump" focus by releasing and re-engaging the AF button. Still, not difficult to do.

For fast acquisition of a subject, it's pretty slow at full zoom (600mm) but it's pretty equal to the 100-400; it certainly won't keep up with the f/5.6 there. At 400, the Tamron's pretty snappy.

Pretty much nothing keeps up with the 400/5.6 on AF speed. That is the Usain Bolt of AF.


Gripped 7D, gripped, full-spectrum modfied T1i (500D), SX50HS, A2E film body, Tamzooka (150-600), Tamron 90mm/2.8 VC (ver 2), Tamron 18-270 VC, Canon FD 100 f/4.0 macro, Canon 24-105 f/4L,Canon EF 200 f/2.8LII, Canon 85 f/1.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 90mmf/2.5 Macro, Tokina 11-16, Canon EX-430 flash, Vivitar DF-383 flash, Astro-Tech AT6RC and Celestron NexStar 102 GT telescopes, various other semi-crappy manual lenses and stuff.

  
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FEChariot
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Mar 14, 2014 18:56 as a reply to  @ post 16757484 |  #40

Thanks for the feedback Snydremark. I wonder if the 7D issues for those claiming them have to do with what firmware version they are running or if it's just poor technique or RTFM issues.


Canon 7D/350D, Σ17-50/2.8 OS, 18-55IS, 24-105/4 L IS, Σ30/1.4 EX, 50/1.8, C50/1.4, 55-250IS, 60/2.8, 70-200/4 L IS, 85/1.8, 100/2.8 IS L, 135/2 L 580EX II, 430EX II * 2, 270EX II.

  
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Snydremark
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Mar 14, 2014 19:52 |  #41

FEChariot wrote in post #16759279 (external link)
Thanks for the feedback Snydremark. I wonder if the 7D issues for those claiming them have to do with what firmware version they are running or if it's just poor technique or RTFM issues.

From personal experience, I'd say it is a fair mix of the above :) I don't think that the actual functional weirdness is dependent on the firmware of the camera, but may be something Tamron can tighten up with a firmware upgrade on the lens at some point, we'll see. But a fair amount of the issues I believe come from poor technique and not being used to using longer lenses. I get pretty nice results out of the lens NOW, but when I got started with the thing, it felt like there was something seriously wrong. Nearly all of which stemmed from my own poor handling techniques and not taking the time to learn the foibles of shooting that long. There are still bits of it I'm struggling with, but it's worth learning.

With regards to that, it's also possible that there are shooting scenarios where the flaky bits of the system impact others more than others; but, I suspect that's a very small minority. For instance, for heavy BiF use, one has to be quick and rock-steady to keep a fast moving bird in the frame and under an active AF point at 600mm. Not a simple trick under ANY circumstances; losing that track of the bird in this situation is more likely to cause a time delay in reacquiring said subject with this lens than with something that has better/faster response to that sort of thing. From what I've seen so far, though, there are very few, truly dedicated BiF shooters even amongst the masses here, as it really is a difficult thing to do well.


- Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife (external link) (7D MkII/5D IV, Canon 10-22 f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105L f/4 IS, Canon 70-200L f/2.8 IS MkII, Canon 100-400L f/4.5-5.6 IS I/II)
"The easiest way to improve your photos is to adjust the loose nut between the shutter release and the ground."

  
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lescrane
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Mar 14, 2014 21:55 as a reply to  @ Snydremark's post |  #42

here are a couple BIF shots I took with the Tammy on a 70d Please note I have almost no BIF experience prior to this. Used a tripod w/Acratech ball head.

Great egret 350mm f8
Black Crowned Night Heron 600 mm f8


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Leigh
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Mar 15, 2014 22:30 as a reply to  @ lescrane's post |  #43

My 7D experience.

Got the Tamron yesterday, and. after some testing I noted that when the lens was seeking AF from a "front-focus" position it would achieve focus quickly; but if it was coming from a "back-focus" position it would not Autofocus at all.

I had C.Fn iii-4 set to (1) Focus Search= Off which kept my 100-400L from "hunting" when "far" out of focus; and both the 100-400L, and a Sigma 120-300-OS--even with a 2X TC attached worked fine with that setting.

I changed it to Focus Search= ON; and the Tamron was now able to achieve AF from a "back-focus" position, but it has to cycle the range in order to achieve it--- even if it's only slightly out of focus.

This behavior is in both One-shot & IA Servo; Focus Limiter in either position, and regardless of target contrast.

Never experienced this with the Canon or Sigma zooms; and I'm wondering if this is inherent in the design, or a malfunction???

Leigh

www.leighwax.com (external link)




  
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Tammy 150-600 or 400mm f5.6
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