What am I missing? (Shooting the moon)

I'm using my EF 400mm f/5.6 lens with my 2x Extender to shoot photos of the moon.

The end result is that I'm still ending up with blurry photos. I know it's not out of focus, or that the extender is reducing clarity, because the LiveView display is absolutely crisp and clear!! In fact, I see more detail in the LiveView than any photo I've managed to take.

Is there some sort of method of calculating the proper field-of-view and then judging the shutter speed based on that?

I'm using my manfrotto tripod (I need suggestions for a better one, adjusting this thing to follow the moon and planets is such a chore) and my RC-6 remote, so the only thing that can be shaking the camera would be the mirror (I make sure it's not windy). I've enabled my mirror lock, but it doesn't seem to actually function when I follow the steps of locking the mirror before taking the photo.

This is the clearest I could get last night with an aperture of f/14 and a shutter speed of 1/100. The only post processing I did, was simply turn the raw file into a .png after adding a high pass filter over it with an overlayed duplicate layer (still learning this post processing stuff):

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …83315202@N03/13​236562525/

You could try opening up the ƒ stop, you could be seeing the beginning of refraction. When I've shot it, I'm usually around 1/640 @ ƒ8 ISO 400.

That's with the high pass? What did you have the high pass set to?

I think you could be shooting too slow. I'd take shutter speed up to at least 1/250.

Do you have the tripod set up on solid ground? I find that if I set mine up on my back deck (which is wood), I can't stand on the deck. Even if I'm standing there not moving the camera shakes.

Mr_Bester wrote in post #16770097
You could try opening up the ƒ stop, you could be seeing the beginning of refraction. When I've shot it, I'm usually around 1/640 @ ƒ8 ISO 400.

I'll give that a shot tonight. EDIT: I just thought of something, with the extender on, the widest I can set my aperture is f/11. I'll try it without the extender which will allow me to open up to f/5.6

neacail wrote in post #16770145
That's with the high pass? What did you have the high pass set to?

I think you could be shooting too slow. I'd take shutter speed up to at least 1/250.

Do you have the tripod set up on solid ground? I find that if I set mine up on my back deck (which is wood), I can't stand on the deck. Even if I'm standing there not moving the camera shakes.

I set the high pass to about 4 pixels. It brought out the most detail, without looking too off.

I'll increase the shutter speed as well.

My tripod sits on flagstone ground or my driveway, depending on whether or not I'm in my front of back yard.

The camera strap doesn't swap or anything, so that couldn't be the culprit if it's a motion thing.

VaiFanatic wrote in post #16769483
I've enabled my mirror lock, but it doesn't seem to actually function when I follow the steps of locking the mirror before taking the photo.

It should. I think you need to explore what's going on here. Remember, the first shutter release activation locks up the mirror; the second one actually makes the exposure, unless it's different with an RC-6 of course.

Heya,

Faster shutter. 1/100 is slow for a fast moving moon, in regards to your angle of view (focal length related). The longer that focal length is, the faster you'll want the shutter on a moving object.

Your lens is sharp at F5.6. It's not much sharper at F14. No need to stop down. Try F8 and stay there. Adjust ISO for exposure based on shutter speed once you figure what you want. I would try to get closer to 1/400 or 1/500, and then add ISO within your acceptable noise limits.

Also, the full moon is not the best thing to look at for sharpness. I find full moons look less sharp, no matter who took the photo, than non-full moons. There's just better contrast on the non-full moons. Easier to focus on them. Thus, sharper to me at least.

Everything in the LCD liveview will look sharper than the LCD of your computer monitor. Pixel density.

Very best,

xarqi wrote in post #16771379
It should. I think you need to explore what's going on here. Remember, the first shutter release activation locks up the mirror; the second one actually makes the exposure, unless it's different with an RC-6 of course.

I tried doing the 2-second delay drive and using the shutter button and still no luck. I'll fiddle with it some more tonight, if it's not cloudy.

MalVeauX wrote in post #16771604
Heya,

Faster shutter. 1/100 is slow for a fast moving moon, in regards to your angle of view (focal length related). The longer that focal length is, the faster you'll want the shutter on a moving object.

Your lens is sharp at F5.6. It's not much sharper at F14. No need to stop down. Try F8 and stay there. Adjust ISO for exposure based on shutter speed once you figure what you want. I would try to get closer to 1/400 or 1/500, and then add ISO within your acceptable noise limits.

Also, the full moon is not the best thing to look at for sharpness. I find full moons look less sharp, no matter who took the photo, than non-full moons. There's just better contrast on the non-full moons. Easier to focus on them. Thus, sharper to me at least.

Everything in the LCD liveview will look sharper than the LCD of your computer monitor. Pixel density.

Very best,

You know, I'm inclined to agree about full moons and sharpness (though folks with really nice telescopes can get some amazing photos), it seems a waxing or waning moon always comes out clearer.

I'll play around with f/8 tonight without the extender on at 400mm focal length and see what results I get. I'll definitely up the shutter speed.

That LiveView does a great job of fooling me

At lower resolutions, the photos actually look good, but I'd love to be able to take full-size photos and just have the detail be so amazing, it melts your face off

I guess that's where a telescope will come in, in the future.

VaiFanatic wrote in post #16771739
I tried doing the 2-second delay drive and using the shutter button and still no luck. I'll fiddle with it some more tonight, if it's not cloudy.

Or even if it is. You should be able to sort out the mirror lock up / remote operation at any time, so why not do it without eating into your "sky" time.

xarqi wrote in post #16771975
Or even if it is. You should be able to sort out the mirror lock up / remote operation at any time, so why not do it without eating into your "sky" time.

I was doing work-related things so no chance to try and sort that out.

It was a little too cloudy to shoot last night, so I'll see what the deal is with the mirror lock-up once I return from the hardware store.

I know this may seem obvious but is the IS switched off on your lens??

I'd say that's pretty outstanding for the 400 and the 2x TC. Keep in mind atmospheric conditions and the position of the Moon at the time of imaging. The lower in the sky it is the more atmosphere you're shooting through. Even when the Moon is high atmospheric conditions may not be ideal. On unsettled nights there can be periods of clarity, sometimes it can be just a matter of waiting an hour or two and sometimes luck is a factor so shooting more than needed can hit the more settled periods. During the hot months or times when the days are warm and nights are cool the radiational cooling can last well after dark. I've taken my best Lunar shots between midnight and sunrise, especially when shooting from residential areas where concrete and rooftops compound poor seeing/imaging conditions. My experience has been at very high magnifications which really helps with appreciating how much atmospheric conditions affect image quality. An unstable atmosphere can make images appear slightly out of focus even when you know your focus is dead on.

You have "Image Editing Ok" turned on so I did a bit of selective sharping in the center of the shot and raise contrast a bit as well:

SimonClarkson wrote in post #16776908
I know this may seem obvious but is the IS switched off on your lens??

This lens does not have IS.

Nighthound wrote in post #16777141
I'd say that's pretty outstanding for the 400 and the 2x TC. Keep in mind atmospheric conditions and the position of the Moon at the time of imaging. The lower in the sky it is the more atmosphere you're shooting through. Even when the Moon is high atmospheric conditions may not be ideal. On unsettled nights there can be periods of clarity, sometimes it can be just a matter of waiting an hour or two and sometimes luck is a factor so shooting more than needed can hit the more settled periods. During the hot months or times when the days are warm and nights are cool the radiational cooling can last well after dark. I've taken my best Lunar shots between midnight and sunrise, especially when shooting from residential areas where concrete and rooftops compound poor seeing/imaging conditions. My experience has been at very high magnifications which really helps with appreciating how much atmospheric conditions affect image quality. An unstable atmosphere can make images appear slightly out of focus even when you know your focus is dead on.

You have "Image Editing Ok" turned on so I did a bit of selective sharping in the center of the shot and raise contrast a bit as well:

This is one of mine taken with a telescope, I'd say yours is very close to this in sharpness.
http://i3.photobucket.​com …llery/flmn-1.jpg~original

Yeah, I usually way for it to be much higher in the sky, I haven't been able to do much over the last few days because it was cloudy and rainy. Perhaps tonight I can get a chance.

And wow, you're right, I'll work on my editing skills as well. Thanks!

I think you have a very good photo of the moon. As others have said it may be atmospheric conditions affecting your outcome.

Just to be sure let me make sure you have the correct settings on your 60D for Mirror Lock Up. I also own the 60D

Page 257 of your manual
Custom Function Group IV (next to Registering My Menu (Favorites))
In Group IV find:
Custom Function III:Autofocus/Drive
- - - - change this setting (Mirror Lock up) to Enable


Press your shutter (or RC-6 Remote) once to raise the mirror, then again to take the picture. You always need to press the shutter 2 times to take the picture.

When done taking pictures then remember to change this setting back to Disable which I have been known to forget!

Inspeqtor wrote in post #16778846
I think you have a very good photo of the moon. As others have said it may be atmospheric conditions affecting your outcome.

Just to be sure let me make sure you have the correct settings on your 60D for Mirror Lock Up. I also own the 60D

Page 257 of your manual
Custom Function Group IV (next to Registering My Menu (Favorites))
In Group IV find:
Custom Function III:Autofocus/Drive
- - - - change this setting (Mirror Lock up) to Enable


Press your shutter (or RC-6 Remote) once to raise the mirror, then again to take the picture. You always need to press the shutter 2 times to take the picture.

When done taking pictures then remember to change this setting back to Disable which I have been known to forget!

Charles,

Thanks!! I really appreciate the positive feedback from you guys. I'm also think there were thin, high altitude clouds as well, as recent nights have been super crystal clear compared to the nights I took those photos.

I've neglected to look into my mirror lock-up because I've gotten overwhelmed and distracted by other things, but I'm certain I'll sort it out, and I'm sure that will help!

VaiFanatic wrote in post #16795868
Charles,

Thanks!! I really appreciate the positive feedback from you guys. I'm also think there were thin, high altitude clouds as well, as recent nights have been super crystal clear compared to the nights I took those photos.

I've neglected to look into my mirror lock-up because I've gotten overwhelmed and distracted by other things, but I'm certain I'll sort it out, and I'm sure that will help!

You are most welcome.