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Thread started 24 Mar 2014 (Monday) 22:03
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gabebalazs
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Mar 27, 2014 12:20 |  #106

I'm OK with the D-pad too. Maybe my thumb is more flexible than others' but I can change stuff on teh D-pad virtually as quickly as I was on the joystick on my 7D. And since my 70D is similar to the 6D, it's all I am used to now.

On the AF note, last night a fiend of my wife's came over and they were working on some stuff in our living room. I grabbed my 6D and Tamron 24-70 2.8 and started shooting using only the outer points at 2.8. Under ceiling light, my hit rate was about 98%, I used both one-shot and AI servo too. Granted they were not running around, but did move around etc. I was happy with the results.
Then I also used my 50 1.4, between 1.4 and 2.0, results were again surprisingly good. Then used my 85 1.8 with the same good results. I always placed the outer point on the eye (mostly I used the top 3 points) and the AF performed well under these incandescent lit indoor conditions.
I planned to switch over to my 70D just to test if it was better, but since the 6D was doing fine, I pretty much forgot :)
That of course doesn't mean that these non-cross type points are as good as cross type ones, and I'm sure if conditions had been worse, they would have struggled more, but I thought I'd just share my experience how they work in a normal, real-world indoor situation under decent indoor lights.

Light level yielded photos with settings: f/1.8, 1/200s, ISO 2500


SONY A7RIII | SONY A7III | SONY RX10 IV | SONY RX100 | 24-70 2.8 GM | 70-200 2.8 GM | 16-35 F/4 | PZ 18-105 F/4 | FE 85 1.8 | FE 28-70 | SIGMA 35 1.4 ART | SIGMA 150-600 C | ROKINON 14 2.8
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Talley
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Mar 27, 2014 12:25 |  #107

gabebalazs wrote in post #16790528 (external link)
Light level yielded photos with settings: f/1.8, 1/200s, ISO 2500

Thats EV 4. I start seeing problems at about F2.8, 1/125 ISO 4000


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Bakewell
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Mar 27, 2014 12:29 |  #108
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gabebalazs wrote in post #16790528 (external link)
On the AF note, last night a fiend of my wife's came over and they were working on some stuff in our living room. I grabbed my 6D and Tamron 24-70 2.8 and started shooting using only the outer points at 2.8. Under ceiling light, my hit rate was about 98%, I used both one-shot and AI servo too. Granted they were not running around, but did move around etc. I was happy with the results.
Then I also used my 50 1.4, between 1.4 and 2.0, results were again surprisingly good. Then used my 85 1.8 with the same good results. I always placed the outer point on the eye (mostly I used the top 3 points) and the AF performed well under these incandescent lit indoor conditions.
I planned to switch over to my 70D just to test if it was better, but since the 6D was doing fine, I pretty much forgot :)

Sounds like the kind of camera I want! Never mind...already own the sweet one!


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gabebalazs
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Mar 27, 2014 13:18 |  #109

Talley wrote in post #16790539 (external link)
Thats EV 4. I start seeing problems at about F2.8, 1/125 ISO 4000

Hey, thanks; I knew those data would somehow calculate to a specific EV number.


SONY A7RIII | SONY A7III | SONY RX10 IV | SONY RX100 | 24-70 2.8 GM | 70-200 2.8 GM | 16-35 F/4 | PZ 18-105 F/4 | FE 85 1.8 | FE 28-70 | SIGMA 35 1.4 ART | SIGMA 150-600 C | ROKINON 14 2.8
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Mar 27, 2014 15:31 |  #110

Talley wrote in post #16790539 (external link)
Thats EV 4. I start seeing problems at about F2.8, 1/125 ISO 4000

Talley, can you give us a link to a conversion table?

I looked at Wikipedia and they claim that their table is ISO-independent which I don't buy, since the f1.8 1/100, ISO100 is not the same light level as the f1.8, 1/100, ISO 25600, unless I misunderstood something...:o


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Mornnb
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Mar 27, 2014 16:04 |  #111

gabebalazs wrote in post #16790528 (external link)
I'm OK with the D-pad too. Maybe my thumb is more flexible than others' but I can change stuff on teh D-pad virtually as quickly as I was on the joystick on my 7D. And since my 70D is similar to the 6D, it's all I am used to now.

One thing I do know is that I do not want to navigate 61 AF points on D-pad! A joystick is nice but on the 6D it's really not needed.
If you've ever used a 7D or a 5D3, you'll know why a joystick is quite essential for handling many AF points.

On the AF note, last night a fiend of my wife's came over and they were working on some stuff in our living room. I grabbed my 6D and Tamron 24-70 2.8 and started shooting using only the outer points at 2.8. Under ceiling light, my hit rate was about 98%, I used both one-shot and AI servo too. Granted they were not running around, but did move around etc. I was happy with the results.

Yes the 6D's AF is perfectly adequate. Though you were using a f/2.8 zoom. Things can be tricker with a f/1.4 prime.


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Talley
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Mar 27, 2014 16:14 |  #112

Mornnb wrote in post #16791039 (external link)
One thing I do know is that I do not want to navigate 61 AF points on D-pad! A joystick is nice but on the 6D it's really not needed.
If you've ever used a 7D or a 5D3, you'll know why a joystick is quite essential for handling many AF points.

40D has only 9 and it's joystick was a real joy to use... uber fast.


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Talley
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Mar 27, 2014 16:16 |  #113

MakisM1 wrote in post #16790957 (external link)
Talley, can you give us a link to a conversion table?

I looked at Wikipedia and they claim that their table is ISO-independent which I don't buy, since the f1.8 1/100, ISO100 is not the same light level as the f1.8, 1/100, ISO 25600, unless I misunderstood something...:o

http://en.wikipedia.or​g/wiki/Exposure_value (external link)

It's always based on ISO 100 so my number is a rough estimate. Could be plus or minus some.


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Mornnb
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Mar 27, 2014 16:23 |  #114

Talley wrote in post #16791057 (external link)
40D has only 9 and it's joystick was a real joy to use... uber fast.

On the 6D, every Af point is two clicks from the centre point of the shutter dial or aperture wheel. When you can reach all the AF points so easily, a joystick is not a big deal.


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Charlie
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Mar 27, 2014 16:32 |  #115

gabebalazs wrote in post #16790528 (external link)
I'm OK with the D-pad too. Maybe my thumb is more flexible than others' but I can change stuff on teh D-pad virtually as quickly as I was on the joystick on my 7D. And since my 70D is similar to the 6D, it's all I am used to now.

if you're already in the process of shooting and know your current location, then it's fine, but if my kid is doing something wacky and I pull the camera out for a quick snap, literally 1 single click and I'm in the zone I want with the 5D3. With the 6D, i'de have to find which point I'm on.

If I'm actively shooting, then no big deal even though it's kind of clunky. Most of the time, it's an annoyance, some of the time, it's the cause of missed shots. I have relatively decent results with the accuracy of outer points, and not THAT big of a deal to me. Just want that damn joystick back!


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Talley
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Mar 27, 2014 16:41 |  #116

Charlie wrote in post #16791111 (external link)
if you're already in the process of shooting and know your current location, then it's fine, but if my kid is doing something wacky and I pull the camera out for a quick snap, literally 1 single click and I'm in the zone I want with the 5D3. With the 6D, i'de have to find which point I'm on.

If I'm actively shooting, then no big deal even though it's kind of clunky. Most of the time, it's an annoyance, some of the time, it's the cause of missed shots. I have relatively decent results with the accuracy of outer points, and not THAT big of a deal to me. Just want that damn joystick back!

This. Sometimes I don't have time to react.

One nice feature on the 5D3 that came from the 7D is the home point. I can be on any AF point and I assign the * button to be a registered AF point. I press that and instantly I'm on any point that I assign it to. Typically the top AF point or maybe one off to the left or right. This way in a pinch I can go from one point and then say "OH I need to take a portrait waist up and want the face in focus and I don't do anything I just focus with the * and it goes to that point.

Another thing is the DOF button I have assign to a registered AF function. So I'll have my camera in one shot mode mostly but have it registered to not only do SERVO but to have it setup in AF expansion too.

Lots of little things that add up


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MakisM1
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Mar 27, 2014 16:43 |  #117

The D-Pad has the same 8 directions like the joystick and is just as responsive and positive to locate (actually even more so).

The problem the D-Pad has is that of perception. It's not a 'pro' thing...

Coming from the 60D I prefer the D-Pad my a little margin...


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Talley
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Mar 27, 2014 16:49 |  #118

MakisM1 wrote in post #16791131 (external link)
The D-Pad has the same 8 directions like the joystick and is just as responsive and positive to locate (actually even more so).

The problem the D-Pad has is that of perception. It's not a 'pro' thing...

Coming from the 60D I prefer the D-Pad my a little margin...

unless your thumb cannot stretch like mine :p


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Mar 27, 2014 17:13 |  #119

I guess I'm all thumbs! :D


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Charlie
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Mar 27, 2014 19:38 |  #120

MakisM1 wrote in post #16791131 (external link)
The D-Pad has the same 8 directions like the joystick and is just as responsive and positive to locate (actually even more so).

The problem the D-Pad has is that of perception. It's not a 'pro' thing...

Coming from the 60D I prefer the D-Pad my a little margin...

60D != 6D dpad. 60D has a 1:1 mapping, 8 directions and set as center making a total of 9. 6D on the other hand, has no such mapping, so you're basically fiddling around.

give the 6D a 1:1 mapping like the 60D and take away the additional AF points, and I wont be too bothered switching to D-pad. I'm pretty sure the 70D has this issue as well, but cant confirm, only played with it briefly.


Sony A7siii/A7iv/ZV-1 - FE 24/1.4 - SY 24/2.8 - FE 35/2.8 - FE 50/1.8 - FE 85/1.8 - F 600/5.6 - CZ 100-300 - Tamron 17-28/2.8 - 28-75/2.8 - 28-200 RXD
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