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Thread started 24 Mar 2014 (Monday) 22:03
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6D & 5D3 Raw images @ 12,800

 
MakisM1
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Mar 27, 2014 19:47 |  #121

Charlie wrote in post #16791457 (external link)
60D != 6D dpad. 60D has a 1:1 mapping, 8 directions and set as center making a total of 9. 6D on the other hand, has no such mapping, so you're basically fiddling around.

give the 6D a 1:1 mapping like the 60D and take away the additional AF points, and I wont be too bothered switching to D-pad. I'm pretty sure the 70D has this issue as well, but cant confirm, only played with it briefly.

What?..!!! They didn't even put the outer points on the D-Pad? There is no option to do this a la 60D?

What the ^&#$&^$ were they thinking????


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Charlie
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Mar 27, 2014 20:02 |  #122

MakisM1 wrote in post #16791477 (external link)
What?..!!! They didn't even put the outer points on the D-Pad? There is no option to do this a la 60D?

What the ^&#$&^$ were they thinking????

there's no mapping, so if you're all the way to the right, you click left 4 times to get to the left......

if you're top right, 2 clicks left to top left (slightly less annoying).

tap the upper right of the dpad, and you're essentially going 1 over and 1 up, not necessarily to upper right point...

it's pretty much on par with a digital rebel since ALL the corner points are too confusing to use.

EDIT: I bought the 6D, assuming it would be like the 60D, I could live with that! I've expressed my disappointment with this silly Dpad on many occasions.


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gabebalazs
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Mar 27, 2014 20:31 |  #123

Charlie wrote in post #16791512 (external link)
there's no mapping, so if you're all the way to the right, you click left 4 times to get to the left......

if you're top right, 2 clicks left to top left (slightly less annoying).

tap the upper right of the dpad, and you're essentially going 1 over and 1 up, not necessarily to upper right point...

it's pretty much on par with a digital rebel since ALL the corner points are too confusing to use.

EDIT: I bought the 6D, assuming it would be like the 60D, I could live with that! I've expressed my disappointment with this silly Dpad on many occasions.

That's not how it is on my 6D :confused:
If I'm on the far right AF point I click once to the right --> all AF points, click one more to the right --> far left point. So the AF selection with the D-pad is continuous and does not stop at the edges. The only difference compared to my 70D (or 7D) is that it activates all points at one of the clicks. but I can go round and around just by clicking to the right (or left, same for up and down).
Or am I misunderstanding something?


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Charlie
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Mar 27, 2014 20:39 |  #124

gabebalazs wrote in post #16791570 (external link)
That's not how it is on my 6D :confused:
If I'm on the far right AF point I click once to the right --> all AF points, click one more --> far left point. So the AF selection with the D-pad is continuous and does not stop at the edges.

well, that's counter intuitive to go from far right and click right again twice to get to far left ;)

it really goes with my "fiddling" argument, it's a no win situation, just different flavors of the same turd sandwich :lol:.

5D3 zone AF..... AHHHHHHHH, so sweet. it also has a more traditional 9 point (if you want pinpoint accuracy) with a larger focus spread.... AHHHHHHH, so sweet.


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gabebalazs
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Mar 27, 2014 20:51 |  #125

Charlie wrote in post #16791585 (external link)
well, that's counter intuitive to go from far right and click right again twice to get to far left ;)

it really goes with my "fiddling" argument, it's a no win situation, just different flavors of the same turd sandwich :lol:.

5D3 zone AF..... AHHHHHHHH, so sweet. it also has a more traditional 9 point (if you want pinpoint accuracy) with a larger focus spread.... AHHHHHHH, so sweet.

Well, it's like the 7D and 70D except for the extra all-points mode. On the 7D and 70D it's one click to the right to get to the far left. So on the 6D it's still only 2 clicks to get from far right to far left as opposed to the 4 clicks you mentioned :)


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Talley
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Mar 27, 2014 21:50 |  #126

I'm just so confused.... I have 61 I have to select now and it's just so gosh darn confusing which one to pick because they are all flawless :D


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Mar 29, 2014 14:27 |  #127

Talley wrote in post #16791735 (external link)
I'm just so confused.... I have 61 I have to select now and it's just so gosh darn confusing which one to pick because they are all flawless :D

For me personally, I did not find all 61 AF points flawless. I would definitely prefer to have the 5D III's 61 AF points compared to the pitiful 10 outer AF points on my 6D; but, I have a different take on those two outer blocks of 20 AF points on the 5D III.

It is my own fault, but I thought the two outer blocks of AF points, had 10 cross-type AF points, that were f/5.6 sensitive. I read or misunderstood Bryan Carnanthan's review of the 5D III's outer AF points;

"With lenses that have a maximum aperture of f/5.6, or faster, the central bank of 21 AF points will all function as cross-type AF sensors, and the left and right banks of 20 AF points each will act as cross-type sensors at f/4 and f/5.6."

Well, on that note, my 5D III and my 100-400L went to the outer banks last summer and when I was in those outer banks of AF points, they would not lock on like the center block of AF points would; lots of hunting. When I got home, I went to the Canon USA site, and looked up the info for the 5D III's AF points, and it turns out that if you have a lens that is slower than f/4.0, you have access to only horizontal AF points in those outer blocks; f/4.0 and faster, you have 10 cross type AF points. Again, my fault, not TDP's or the 5D III.

That is why I sold my 5D III, and bought another 6D. In just about every shooting scenario, I would rather have the 5D III, it is just those outer blocks were a bit of a let down for me personally. Did not seem like it was worth the extra money, to me anyways.




  
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Mar 29, 2014 16:45 |  #128

12800 is just so easy to clean up, I am really having fun with the files. :) I started having some issues with some of the AF tracking from time to time last night, I think I messed with one of the settings I had stored under C1 and re-registered over the top of it. I will get it squared away this evening. Here are some varying cropped results.

IMAGE: http://gerberphotos.smugmug.com/Sports-Events/Mad-Ants-20132014-/i-9v6g46K/0/X2/5P1B7963-X2.jpg

IMAGE: http://gerberphotos.smugmug.com/Sports-Events/Mad-Ants-20132014-/i-PSZMkbg/0/X2/5P1B7909-X2.jpg

IMAGE: http://gerberphotos.smugmug.com/Sports-Events/Mad-Ants-20132014-/i-MSrRw9v/0/X2/5P1B7894-X2.jpg

Maybe a PaceMate or 2?

IMAGE: http://gerberphotos.smugmug.com/Sports-Events/Mad-Ants-20132014-/i-K7msTvj/0/X2/5P1B7997-X2.jpg

IMAGE: http://gerberphotos.smugmug.com/Sports-Events/Mad-Ants-20132014-/i-DfddBnw/0/X2/5P1B7978-X2.jpg

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Talley
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Mar 29, 2014 17:57 |  #129

Teamspeed...

How do you handle the pink noise gain? I start seeing it on mine bad at 10000 and see a little at 6400


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TeamSpeed
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Mar 29, 2014 22:45 |  #130

Talley wrote in post #16795587 (external link)
Teamspeed...

How do you handle the pink noise gain? I start seeing it on mine bad at 10000 and see a little at 6400

I don't have any or nothing noticeable on the 5d3. Some units are worse than others, some don't seem to have any.


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Talley
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Mar 29, 2014 22:47 |  #131

TeamSpeed wrote in post #16796112 (external link)
I don't have any or nothing noticeable on the 5d3. Some units are worse than others, some don't seem to have any.

Wouldn't shooting with the cap on the body for a pure black image show this?

I wouldn't mind doing this at 6400/12,800/25600 and comparing to yours. If mine shows it alot then I might just need to try another body to make me happy. This is my only peave thus far.


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TeamSpeed
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Mar 30, 2014 06:34 |  #132

I was going to oblige you, but then I thought why go hunt for a problem if I don't think there is one? I am a bit OCD, so if I do this test, it will bug me if I find out this particular body has the issue. I am going to have to decline for the sake of keeping my sanity. :D

However, here is a 12800 direct from raw image, no cropping, and I have been seeing anything that shows up. This is the perfect shot for that because dark areas show the pink cast, and I figure dark curtains would show it here. I don't see anything along the right edge or upper corner, which is where this would typically show.

IMAGE: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/images/hostedphotos_lq/2014/03/5/LQ_681283.jpg
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Mar 30, 2014 07:28 |  #133

Do you shoot at ISO 25600 team speed?


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Talley
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Mar 30, 2014 08:55 |  #134

TeamSpeed wrote in post #16796500 (external link)
I was going to oblige you, but then I thought why go hunt for a problem if I don't think there is one?

I didn't go hunting because I seen it. At 6400 I could see it.

Here is 6400, 12800, 25600 on mine VS a 6D.

6400

5D3

IMAGE: http://nitrousdepot.net/POTN/5d36400.jpg

6D
IMAGE: http://nitrousdepot.net/POTN/6D6400.jpg


12,800

5D3
IMAGE: http://nitrousdepot.net/POTN/5d312800.jpg

6D
IMAGE: http://nitrousdepot.net/POTN/6d12800.jpg


25,600

5D3
IMAGE: http://nitrousdepot.net/POTN/5d325600.jpg

6D
IMAGE: http://nitrousdepot.net/POTN/6d25600.jpg

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John ­ Sheehy
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Mar 30, 2014 10:03 |  #135

Talley wrote in post #16784639 (external link)
I use my SLR for video about 6 times a year but when I do it's tripod mounted in the back of a school gym/auditorium and I'll have the 70-200 on there so I can get high quality clean video. I have a seperate recorder Tascam DR-40 that I will place closer to the stage to get better audio which I need a good pair of MICs for but thats another story.

One thing moving from 7D to the 6D was disappointment in the moire'. Looked cheap.

Thanks for reminding me... your right the 5D3 does much better. Although I've looked at getting one of these: http://store.mosaiceng​ineering.com …Aliasing-Filter_p_15.html (external link) It's still pricey.

The 7D aliases heavily in the mid-HD resolution. The 7D and 6D use line-skipping for video, a very unfortunate situation for people with sharp lenses. A big part of the buzz around DSLR video was the shallow DOF, but if you need to stop down to provide the diffraction needed to prevent aliasing, then the potential shallow DOF is moot. All that remains is the lens flexibility and noise advantage, and even there, the noise is not as good as it could be when you skip lines. If a camera skips 2 out of 3 lines in one dimension, it throws away 2/3 of the light captured by the sensor, as if the ISO were 3x as high as stated.




  
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