Galler wrap folds cracking

I am having a small issue with cracking and ink flecking on my folds when making gallery wraps. I wondered if anyone else has the same issue and any advice.

I am using Breathing Color's Lyve Canvas and their Timeless clear coat.

All the edges and corners of my stretcher bars have a slight radius.

I am stretching on a Tensador machine.

Any help or advice greatly appreciated.

I've never used a machine but have you tried doing it by hand with canvas pliers? I've done hundreds of canvases with your combination and rarely have that problem, and if I do it's just the corners.

Are you applying enough varnish? Too much varnish? Is it all along the edges or just the corners? How long as you letting it dry for? How are you applying the varnish? Have you had luck with any other papers or varnishes? Possibly over tightening?

I'm not sure if it matters but what are your humidity levels and temperature?

I have not tried hand stretching and yes it is just in the corners.

I think it may be the way I am folding the corners. I spend quite a bit of timing yesterday looking around on line and found a few other folding techniques that I want to try over the weekend.

I apply the varnish with a spray gun. 2 Coats at three passes each (so each coat is side to side then up and down then side to side). 1/2 hour dry between coats, overnight dry before stretching.

I have tried a couple of other canvases (thus far I have wrapped less than 12 total) with mixed results. The Leonardo by Hanemuhle seemed to work very well but I am not a huge fan of the gloss.

The prints are kept between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Not sure of the exact humidity level but probably low as I am in northern NH and we have been running the heat for what seems like forever.

If you had a moment I would be interested in knowing how you are folding your corners. Maybe an existing video on the web by someone who is using the same technique as you?

Thanks!

I've had a couple of instances where I would over-stretch the canvas and it would tear, but even then the varnish didn't crack, though admittedly I use damar varnish, which is incredibly viscous and lasts forever.

Spary-on varnish is generally used by artists as a temporary solution while they're still working on an art piece, but the final coat should be a liquid, I simply coat mine with an extra-wide brush. Some people I know use a machine that applies an even coat along the whole surface, but since my prints are almost always embellished, it really isn't a solution since it'll smudge the paint.

Kolor-Pikker wrote in post #16787245
I've had a couple of instances where I would over-stretch the canvas and it would tear, but even then the varnish didn't crack, though admittedly I use damar varnish, which is incredibly viscous and lasts forever.

Spary-on varnish is generally used by artists as a temporary solution while they're still working on an art piece, but the final coat should be a liquid, I simply coat mine with an extra-wide brush. Some people I know use a machine that applies an even coat along the whole surface, but since my prints are almost always embellished, it really isn't a solution since it'll smudge the paint.

What I am using is a liquid that comes in a gallon can, I am applying it with and hvlp spray gun. I would think the only difference would be a slightly thicker build if I brushed it. Correct?

Northwoods Bill wrote in post #16787251
What I am using is a liquid that comes in a gallon can, I am applying it with and hvlp spray gun. I would think the only difference would be a slightly thicker build if I brushed it. Correct?

Some paints and finishes don't react all that great to being sprayed on, and will result in a smoother but weaker finish. (When spayed on they rapidly form this 'skin' on the small droplet, and then the droplets don't stick to each other as well before they cure.)

Maybe get some scrap material and run some tests to try and sort out what is going on?

The spraying is actually recommended by the manufacturer but you do make an interesting point in that I have been wondering if the finish wasn't going on a little dry. In truth my gun should probably have the next sized nozzle up. I think I may borrow a gun from work this weekend and put some on with that as a comparison.

I've always sprayed timeless satin. I've tried rolling it but I've always found that it lifts dark colors up into the roller and slightly smears it across the print. I have a couple of canvases to wrap tonight and I'll try my best to take a video.

bespoke wrote in post #16788504
I've always sprayed timeless satin. I've tried rolling it but I've always found that it lifts dark colors up into the roller and slightly smears it across the print. I have a couple of canvases to wrap tonight and I'll try my best to take a video.

Thanks! A video would be cool if you get a chance.

hey. here are some pictures and a little bit of video taken by my phone

after i do a fold, i slice it in the center because i find it'll give me a flatter corner. let me know if you have any questions about it.

www.pnimaging.com/imag​es/canvas.mp4
www.pnimaging.com/imag​es/canvas.jpg
www.pnimaging.com/imag​es/canvas2.jpg
www.pnimaging.com/imag​es/canvas3.jpg

Thanks bespoke. Your technique looks very similar to the one I found online. I did a test wrap last night and was fairly pleased with it. More today I hope...

bespoke wrote in post #16794307
......after i do a fold, i slice it in the center because i find it'll give me a flatter corner. let me know if you have any questions about it.

Hi Peter

Thanks for the video & pictures.

I am struggling with getting my corners nice & sharp as well. In all honesty, I have only done about half a dozen frames & it just could be my technique.

A couple of questions, firstly, could you point me in the direction of a video that demonstrates your technique and secondly, what weight canvas are you using?

Like the OP, I'm using Breathing Color Lyve Canvas which is reasonably heavy. I presume that something a little lighter would be easier to get looking tidier.

Cheers

Mark

I use both Lyve and Epson Exhibition Canvas Matte (depends on what's available and on sale at the time). I can buy Lyve relatively cheap at bulk. It's the better paper of the two but Epson occasionally runs rebates which make it much cheaper.

Try the epson out. It's a poly blend but it stretches really easily and is good for beginners. It's only 390 GSM as opposed to 450.

Also, I usually pass over the corners a couple of extra times just to make sure they're coated thoroughly. I've changed my corner technique a few times thru trail and error. I'm wrapping some more tomorrow so I'll set up a tripod with my camera and do a video.

description of epson:

This elegantly textured canvas features a matte non-reflective surface with a bright white point, exceptionally high Dmax and wide colour gamut. The canvas is an acid-free, lignin-free heavyweight cotton-poly blend and the base is enhanced with elastic polymers providing high tensile strength and flexibility for gallery wrap stretching without cracking.

And right now in Canada, there's a buy 2 get one free deal so I'll be stocking up since it makes it much cheaper than Lyve.

Did two more wraps and I seem to have it down. I actually found my final answer on episode 19 of the video journals on Luminous Landscape. The video contains an interview with Andrew Collet a gallery owner in Canada. In the video Andrew goes through his gallery wrap technique. It is not meant to be a tutorial but it basically is.