For the birds....

I'm just curious how most of you, especially those shooting birds, have focusing triggered on your 10D. Do you use the default focus activation using the shutter button or did you reassign the focus activation to the "*" button.

I've had mine reassigned to the "*" button for a while now and now I'm finding that my right thumb gets soar a lot, especially after several hours of picture taking.

I think my thumb gets the most abuse when I keep the "*" button pressed while trying to track a moving bird to keep it in constant focus.

I like the fact that I can lock the focus independently of the exposure but if this "pain" thing with the thumb keeps up, I'm going to have to go back to setting CFn 4 to 0 and use the shutter button for focusing.

From personal experiences, I find most of the time, fixed foused point and focus lock on shutter button works most of the time with birds in flight. Have you tried the "AI Servo" mode? It is not perfect on my D30 but I believe if it works for helicopters, it may work for birds.


Griffin.

Griffin wrote:
From personal experiences, I find most of the time, fixed foused point and focus lock on shutter button works most of the time with birds in flight. Have you tried the "AI Servo" mode? It is not perfect on my D30 but I believe if it works for helicopters, it may work for birds.

Griffin.

Thanks, Griffin, for your input. Before I started shooting birds, I found it advantageous to be able to focus and set exposure independently of each other but I guess with birds this "independence" isn't really necessary. I'll go back to using my shutter button for focusing and give my soar thumb a break. I use computers all the time (at home and at work) and it's gotten to the point where even hitting the space bar on the keyboard is causing some discomfort in my right thumb.

I have my 10D set to "AI Focus" mode, figuring it's the best of both worlds (One Shot and AI Servo). I guess I just like the blinking red focus confirmation I get with it. I've never really tried "AI Servo" but I'm going to give it a try, even if it is only to find out what the real practical difference is between the two.

FWIW: I've found the AI focus modes to be sort of shabby with my Sigma 28-300mm lens.

I tested this in my girlfriend's backyard chasing her Westie around with the camera. Some shots are almost in focus, but none of them are perfectly crisp (even when subject is perfectly still, in full auto mode, focus seems to wander a bit).

Think it's the lens or what?

-dave-

When shooting birds in flight,. the limitations of your lens will surely be more noticable!

As far as focus control,.. I spent a lot of time figuring out the best solution. I had had the center focus point "registered" for a while,. but then "registered" the 7 point fully auto system instead. Here's why:

98% of the time I use center focus only. I found out through experimenting that for birds in flight,. the fully automatic all 7 points system works wonders with AI servo.

So I leave the camera on the center point,. but with a push of a button it switches back to all 7 points... as this is only something I need when I am in a rush,. it made more sense to have that be the "push button regeistered" custom function.

When I need a single pnt again,. I have plenty of time to select it with the figer wheel.

Now there are two questions: the use of focus points and lens.

Okay first off, I am no expert in bird photography, I know a lot others and I am still in a learning process. Here is my 2 cents.

If you are using "one shot" mode for in flight birds, or just any other moving objects like people, vechicles or flying saucer, I would still use :the central focal point. My way is put the part you want to be in-focus most, say the eye of the birds, superimpose it with the focus point, pan with it, when you feel right, click (but not hold) on the shutter and that is. Of course, if the arrival subject is known, you may wish to shift the focus point left or right so as to compose the picture better.

For lens, one with Mode 2 IS would help, especially in low light situation and handheld. If the light is sufficient, you may wish to use Tv mode and turn it to a high shutter speed. If you can handhold the lens steadily, it would be fine but it is always the best to have it on a steady tripod with a panable head. Also, the AF speed of the lens should also be descent.

Here is one (very poor) sample using one focal point:
http://www.pbase.com/i​mage/15810488


Griffin.

I'd set the '*' as your focus, and the use the traditional focus button as your metering/trigger. That way when you are panning a shot you can continually focus in servo mode, and get the correct exposure when you take the picture.

The only reason I disagree with the Center focus point only method is for attempting to grab multiple shots of a moving subject and keeping it in focus.

Canon has done wonders with the AIservo and autofocus,. and on the 10D in particular it REALLY works!

Is is extremely difficult to keep a subject moving quickly in in the veiwfinder with a long telephoto,. never mind keep the center focus point on it.

With all 7 points "armed" and AI sevo going the 10D is AMAZING at maintaining focus while tracking a moving subject,. it just works great! BUT! It WILL NOT work with a single focus point,. it can't track the motion with only one point. So by using only one one focus point on a moving subject you defeat the advances that Canon has made over the last two decades.

It took me a long time to allow myself to try this as my last camera was useless unless it was set to center focus. But give the 10D's full auto focus a try. You may be pleasantly surprised!

I have used this method to track Dragonflys flying over highly reflective water at 40 feet away using a 500mm lens... IT WORKS! I would NEVER be able to get a dragon fly under the center focus point long enough to focus and shoot.

CyberDime,

Do you recomend "all 7 points armed" setting for tracking a subject when other obstacles abound or just when there is a solid or continous backround?

-Clos

Clos,

That could be a problem as you point out. Personally, I don't like all points focusing even in static mode, since I have not control over which point would be in focus!

BTW, "AI Servo" mode actually works even with single focal point and well, from my limited experiences, actually the focus is a tad faster this way!


Griffin.