Frustrated (Studio lights)

So I borrowed couple of Indian studio lights, these

Lamp only mode is like having two household lights on, Its warm because the light is orange.

It would help if you would post what you are getting so we could see where you are failing.
Working in a small room is tough as light bounces all over and is hard to control, it can work. Youtube has lots of help.

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=PLWa5RwSL4I

We need some examples to work with here. You might as well call your mechanic and tell him you're cars not running right, then ask him how to fix it. Let us see what you're working with, so to speak, so we can offer advice on how to go about improving.

^^ I was hoping YOU'll (Big fan) reply - definitely, I'm on it. Deleted everything but let me take some shots again.

F/5.6
1/160
ISO 100
85mm

Used half power on the strobes (funny thing, It's either half or full, can't adjust anything else) + an umbrella facing towards. Almost every picture is like this or brighter.

Firstly, if F5.6 is too bright, go to f8, 11, 16 etc. Other options are move the light back.

gonzogolf wrote in post #16790834
Firstly, if F5.6 is too bright, go to f8, 11, 16 etc. Other options are move the light back.

Tried that, it feels like it's only under exposing the picture, the effect is the same. Maybe use another light with a snoot to brighten up the face?

Don't mean to insult you but you are in Manual mode right, not Aperture Priority?

Go to youtube and start watching videos. I'm not certain which effect you mean, but my response was to your comment about being too bright. What light modifiers to you have available to you?

Moin wrote in post #16790821
F/5.6
1/160
ISO 100
85mm

Used half power on the strobes (funny thing, It's either half or full, can't adjust anything else) + an umbrella facing towards. Almost every picture is like this or brighter.

I'm going to assume that you're shooting in manual mode? What about the image is too bright? The puppy seems properly exposed to me, but if the scene on a whole is brighter than you want you can try moving the light closer to the dog. This will of course mean you'll have to stop down more, but by bringing the light closer you increase the rate of fall-off (inverse square law) meaning the strobe will have less of an effect on the surroundings relative to the subject.

Don't use the umbrella with diffusion paper. Umbrellas tend to throw light everywhere (especially shoot through umbrellas). If you have diffusion material you can get that as close to the subject as possible while keeping it out of frame, then get the light close enough that you can see where it's entire beam is hitting the diffusion (no spillover). This should give nice soft light while minimizing fill from spill light. Another thing to keep in mind would be not to shoot with a mirror in the background. Mirrors are exceptionally effective reflectors.
Just my two cents.

jptsr1 wrote in post #16790912
Don't mean to insult you but you are in Manual mode right, not Aperture Priority?

Yes, In manual mode.

I did. I even got Karl Taylor's (almost all the DVD's) from someone. Everyone's using a soft/octabox with 99% of their shots with strobes. Looks like I need to experiment, experiment and experiment some more to get this right.

I basically want to test how well I can work with strobes/studio lights before (if) I get my own .

Edit (Just saw Scatter's reply):

Bingo! you understood what I was trying to say

Puppy expose, Yes. Background fade = X

Unfortunately, I don't have a softbox that'll let me bring the light closer but at-least I now know what the problem is. Yep, I took this in a hurry, hence the mirror reflections.

Everyone is using softboxes and octas because they can afford to, but you don't have to have them to get good light (it certainly helps though!). Pick up "Minimalist Lighting" by Kirk Tuck.

Moin wrote in post #16790955
Yes, In manual mode.

I did. I even got Karl Taylor's (almost all the DVD's) from someone. Everyone's using a soft/octabox with 99% of their shots with strobes. Looks like I need to experiment, experiment and experiment some more to get this right.

I basically want to test how well I can work with strobes/studio lights before (if) I get my own .

Edit (Just saw Scatter's reply):

Bingo! you understood what I was trying to say

Puppy expose, Yes. Background fade = X

Unfortunately, I don't have a softbox that'll let me bring the light closer but at-least I now know what the problem is. Yep, I took this in a hurry, hence the mirror reflections.

Softboxes and octos help, but there is no reason with a bit of practice you cant also make your umbrellas perform better for you . Use the properties of light to your advantage. The closer the subject to the light the quicker it falls off in the background.

gonzogolf wrote in post #16790968
Softboxes and octos help, but there is no reason with a bit of practice you cant also make your umbrellas perform better for you . Use the properties of light to your advantage. The closer the subject to the light the quicker it falls off in the background.

Yep, unfortunately, I can't control power on these lights, there's no slider. Only half or full power and it throws an immense burst even on half. The only way I can use these is when I've turned the lights flash off and am using the continuous modeling lamps.

Moin wrote in post #16791006
Yep, unfortunately, I can't control power on these lights, there's no slider. Only half or full power and it throws an immense burst even on half. The only way I can use these is when I've turned the lights flash off and am using the continuous modeling lamps.

Nothing I said relies on your turning the power down. Get closer, and adjust your aperture accordingly, and watch the background get darker.