How to keep filter from getting stuck on adapter.

I have had on a number of occasions the UV filter when put on finger tight get stuck on the lens adapter that I though I would never get it off. After a lot of times trying I finally got it free. I have had this happen on two different cameras. Sometimes it was the UV filter and other times was the MACRO wide angle lens.
Is there a lubricant that can be used?
This has happened when I put the filter Lens or wide angle lens on finger tight and when I went to remove it it was almost impossible.
I tried to search this but could not find any other topics related.
L

Might be handy to have a few filter wrenches in your bag:

http://www.adorama.com​/FLFWB.html

some tips:

http://www.earthboundl​ight.com …filter-stuck-on-lens.html

Some are worse than others and it may have to do with the materials however I use two rubber bands to get a grip and it works for me.
Hope this helps!

Thanks a lot. I see Amazon has them for all size lens. I did not know they made a tool for this. They are not that much money and for the headaches I have had. It does not take much to get one stuck.
L

I always use a small amount of graphite from a pencil on my filter threads and they screw on and off easily. If you keep a very soft pencil in your bag, its easy to just rub that on to the male thread.

Your version of "finger tight" might be a bit much. I barely snug them down. Tight is just too tight over time.

Therein lies the justification cited by B+W for the use of brass filter rings.


You are experiencing what many deny ever occurs!

Wilt wrote in post #16794316
Therein lies the justification cited by B+W for the use of brass filter rings.


You are experiencing what many deny ever occurs!

I have brass B+W filters and the CPOL can get on there so tight after a few days of turning the polarizer that tools are needed. This has more to do with the nature of how threads work (can easily over tighten) and the lack of an adequate grip-able surface than the materials.

NU27D wrote in post #16791921
Some are worse than others and it may have to do with the materials however I use two rubber bands to get a grip and it works for me.
Hope this helps!

This is my tool of choice also

Wilt wrote in post #16794316
Therein lies the justification cited by B+W for the use of brass filter rings.

You are experiencing what many deny ever occurs!

NU27D wrote in post #16791921
Some are worse than others and it may have to do with the materials however I use two rubber bands to get a grip and it works for me.
Hope this helps!

But this is a totally specious argument on B+W part (but a pretty marketing USP). BARE, untreated metals can become attached to one another at a molecular level if in intimate contact but they must be the same metal on both halves. Once treated (ie plated, anodized, oxidised), the molecular attraction vanishes because the molecules are no longer identical. Note that this is at a molecular level. Can't happen with (eg) a metal rilter rim and a plastic lens barrel, they're not the same material.

Hence, in the days of brass lens mounts (something only a few of us remember nowadays) it was theoretically possible, Now, with dissimilar materials in lens barrel and filter rim it's highly unlikely.

Physical jamming, on the other hand, can occur for a number of reasons. Differential contraction of dissimilar materials (one half contracts faster than the other) is a theoretical possibility but unlikely unless one part has been kept warm and the other frozen before pairing. One perfectly easy physical jamming occurs because we screw a CPL onto the lens, then repeatedly turn part of the rim to get the desired polarisation. Inevitably, this snugs the fixed portion of the 2-part rim down even tighter on the lens barrel.

The most likely reason for filters apparently jamming on lenses lies in the way we grip the filter to remove. When we grip the filter rim manually, we apply pressure unevenly and the thin rims currently in vogue can easily distort. This only needs to be very slight and the filter is "stuck". Basically, we are making the rim oval inside a circular lens barrel. The answer lies in applying the pressure circumferentially rather than radially. Easily accomplished. You can either buy a little filter wrench - which then gets lost in the bottom of the camera bag! Alternatively, wrap the loose end of your belt around the rim. Squeeze the ends of the belt (not the filter) to tighten round the rim. This applies the pressure equally all round the filter rim, gives a good grip and allows easy removal of the "stuck" filter.

BTW, this doesn't work with elastic belts!

One concern with using a lubricant, it will also allow the filter to tighten more. My preference has been to ensure the threads were 100% clean and dry. My B+w filters have presented no issues so far.

I agree, its the uneven pressure caused by gripping the filter with two fingers causing it to distort against the female threads in the lens. I wrap electrical tape around the filter I'm trying to remove. It works for me every time.

To add to Whortleberry's comments, some folks refuse to admit a 'molecular' attachment. But these same folks will admit to a problem known as 'galling'

From Wikipedia

"Galling is a form of wear caused by adhesion between sliding surfaces. When a material galls, some of it is pulled with the contacting surface, especially if there is a large amount of force compressing the surfaces together. Galling is caused by a combination of friction and adhesion between the surfaces, followed by slipping and tearing of crystal structure beneath the surface. This will generally leave some material stuck or even friction welded to the adjacent surface, while the galled material may appear gouged with balled-up or torn lumps of material stuck to its surface.
Galling is most commonly found in metal surfaces that are in sliding contact with each other. It is especially common where there is inadequate lubrication between the surfaces. However, certain metals will generally be more prone to galling, due to the atomic stucture of their crystals. For example, aluminum is a metal which will gall very easily, whereas annealed (softened) steel is slightly more resistant to galling. Steel that is fully hardened is very resistant to galling.
"Galling is a common problem in most applications where metals slide while in contact with other metals. This can happen regardless of whether the metals are the same or of different kinds. Metals such as brass are often chosen for bearings, bushings, and other sliding applications because of their resisitance to galling, as well as other forms of mechanical abrasion."

I, too, side with the contribution of any distorting-out-of-round pressure causing that item to bind in the mating item. The rubber band decreases the slipping of grip to which the user tries to compensate by even more pressure -- causing more distortion out of round.

I've used the rubbery lace-like material that you put under throw rugs so they don't slip on a hardwood floor. Easy to find at any hardware store and usually beige in color I always keep a couple pieces in my bag.

The key is don't over-tighten in the first place but I've used this material to remove filters from lenses and filters from reducing adapters. Probably similar to using rubber bands but they can deteriorate and break at the worst time so a couple 6"x6" pieces of this material will be there for you every time.

Method I use looks like a sandwich if dealing with an adapter & filter. Lay a piece of material, the stuck pieces, and the other piece of material and they use the palms of your hands to unscrew them. If they're stubborn I've used "the sandwich", one hand and the sole of a shoe (flat & solid) so all the force of the sole is placed on the edge of the filter.

About the only problem this method won't address is using a CPL.

And for those of us dealing with age & a weakening grip and/or arthritis it's the best thing to use for loosening jar lids

bogeypro wrote in post #16795029
I've used the rubbery lace-like material that you put under throw rugs so they don't slip on a hardwood floor. Easy to find at any hardware store and usually beige in color I always keep a couple pieces in my bag.

Right! ^^^^

"Dollar Tree", in the kitchen isle, they sell rolls of this stuff in various colors that are used in cabinet draws to keep the silverware from sliding around. Cost $1.00/roll. Cut a few squares and put it in your bags. It's what I use, works great unsticking my CPLs. I put the rubber cloth over the front of the filter and press with a cupped palm on the filter rim while turning to unscrew. So far I haven't had a problem not getting a CPL off a lens.

I just use birthday candle wax and lightly run it on the threads of the filter. Gently wipe the excess off with a cloth. This will greatly reduce friction on metal on metal threads. Try it... thank me later.

I also do this for stubborn lens hoods. Sometimes the plastic grinds against the mount. Apply a little bit of candle wax and it will slide on/off like butter.