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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos RAW, Post Processing & Printing 
Thread started 10 Feb 2006 (Friday) 16:23
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My Pano Process

 
MattL
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Feb 10, 2006 16:23 |  #1

Hi Guys. I thought I would share with you the process i've gone through creating my Taupo Bay pano, which I have sold three 1.8m long prints of.

My original post is here : here. Photoshop crashed and lost that version, which was crap anyway, so I did it all again. I havn't posted my final version of this photo yet, because, well its not finished!

Its worth mentioning that for some reason i had shot this in Av, not M. it was also on auto white balance so every image is waay off in exposure. I had shot raw tho, so I could do my best to balance things out in RAW, before converting. I converted each of the 14 shots to a 16bit TIFF for making the pano.

You will need to view this image (external link)for this to make sense - 56kers beware - its 500k!

So here goes.

1. Lay images in correct order. I setup a guide and use that to get the horision level and in line across all the images. Starting at one end, go along each layer with free transform and skew/ warp /stretch the images to fit.

The Red background is a solid colour fill layer, and it helps me to see where there are holes in the image.

2. Here I created brightness / contrast and hue / saturation layers for each of the layers, and masked it off for the sand. To do this properly, you need to Put each image into a group, and set the blending mode of the group to Normal, not Pass-thru. So here I have all the sand looking the right colour.

3. Using the clone stamp I've used it with a soft edged brush, and gone and removed all the edges of each individual frame. I spent alot of time here make the lines in the bushes and the grass in the foreground impossible to see. The Sky and water we can clean up later.

4. Here is the cool part. Instead of cropping down to the smallest image, im going to expand out to the largest. This gives me more scope when choosing my crop at the end. Here I've setup guides to the bottom of the top image, and the top of the bottom image, as well as straight guides down each side. This will allow me to see where the original image would have been without expanding, which again is useful when choosing the crop.
I used the clonestamp, carefully, to pull out to the edges. The Sky is easy, its all blue. The grass etc its a bit harder, and it takes time to get it looking natural. You will notice also here I've added another photo into the mix, in the top right - i missed the contor of the hill so I got a friend to take a snap of the hilltop. The sky on his day was noway near as impressive as mine, and it shows!

#5. Err, I cant see any difference in this image. LOL looks like I made a mistake. Ignore step 5!

#6. This is a long and painful process of matching the waves, to try and get them looking remotely natural. This also takes along time of careful clonestamping.

#7. Here is brigtness/contrast, hue/saturation, levels, and colour balance layers being applied.

#8. Replaced the sky with the gradient tool, and carefully masked out the hills and the clouds, the islands, the boats. This took ages! For the gradient I used the colour from the top left of the original image, i sampled a 5x5 grid with the eyedropper tool.

in the end, you get a 1.5gb PSB, around 60 layers in 20 Groups - and something that looks *very* cool hanging 1.8meters across your wall!


Matt

  
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Moppie
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Feb 10, 2006 16:34 |  #2

Nice write up, but mans thats a lot of clone stamping!

Some interesting ideas there in altering the image size, adding extra to get a better crop really does enhance how the image looks.



So long and thanks for all the flash

  
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dgcorner
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Feb 10, 2006 16:41 |  #3

Hi Matt!

Wow, that's a lot of work... then again, writing down the steps vs. doing them are two different things. If you don't mind, I will copy and paste these so I can save the instructions onto Word for future reference.

Cheers!


John;)

Believe... Work hard... and it will happen!

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MattL
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Feb 10, 2006 16:46 as a reply to  @ dgcorner's post |  #4

dgcorner wrote:
Hi Matt!

Wow, that's a lot of work... then again, writing down the steps vs. doing them are two different things. If you don't mind, I will copy and paste these so I can save the instructions onto Word for future reference.

Cheers!

Go for it. Im not sure how much help they will really be - it will vary on each and every image.


Matt

  
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MattL
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Feb 10, 2006 16:47 as a reply to  @ Moppie's post |  #5

Moppie wrote:
Nice write up, but mans thats a lot of clone stamping!

Some interesting ideas there in altering the image size, adding extra to get a better crop really does enhance how the image looks.

Thanks Moppie. When i choose the crop, i will try to use as little 'added extra' as possible - thats why i've setup those guides, you can see where the orginal is. It just give you a lot more freedom in choosing crops etc.


Matt

  
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UncleDoug
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Feb 10, 2006 16:51 as a reply to  @ dgcorner's post |  #6

Great pano and I bet a great learning experience. ;)


-Uncle Doug
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weka2000
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Feb 10, 2006 16:53 as a reply to  @ MattL's post |  #7

So how much time do you estamate its taken.

Matt hows your "portraits"/"Glamor" comming along?


https://tonysearle.co.​nz (external link)

  
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MattL
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Feb 10, 2006 16:59 |  #8

Somewhere between 20-30 hours. Understand my computer is about as slow as they come, and this image is huge. even moving one of the sections pops up a progress dialoug and take 2-3 minutes to process.

My computer has 1gb of ram, but once you open windows, CS, and a 1.5gb image in CS, that doesnt go far at all. One of these days ill invest in 4 gb or so.


Matt

  
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UncleDoug
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Feb 10, 2006 18:10 as a reply to  @ MattL's post |  #9

Matt,

How are you going to display the print?
Canvas may be a good option. Light weight and cheap vs. framing.

We printed a 48''x116'' pano on matte canvas and sprayed it with BullDog gloss spray a week ago for a clinet.
Today I'm doing a pano print on gloss canvas that is 48''x236''!!! Still trying to figure out how I'm going to stretch the beast though.


-Uncle Doug
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MattL
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Feb 10, 2006 19:06 |  #10

its being printed professionally, 305dpi rated for 200 years blah blah blah, 180cm wide 30cm high, and mounted on 15mm foamcore with black edges, ready for hanging.


Matt

  
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smittymike19
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Feb 10, 2006 22:30 |  #11

very well done. the only question is how did you take all of the shots? did you set the camera on a tripod and rotate it? or did you actually move the camera it seems in my head that turning the camera would warp the horizon..? maybe not. thanks.


  
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weka2000
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Feb 16, 2006 00:43 |  #12

Do you have a web site for that printing place.


https://tonysearle.co.​nz (external link)

  
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tim
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Feb 16, 2006 03:34 |  #13

Dude, give yourself a few months and you'll learn the tricks that'll let you do it in about 1/10th the time :) Photoshop books are great as references if nothing else. I have a few, all have different good ideas.


Professional wedding photographer, solution architect and general technical guy with multiple Amazon Web Services certifications.
Read all my FAQs (wedding, printing, lighting, books, etc)

  
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gardenstate
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Feb 16, 2006 06:43 as a reply to  @ tim's post |  #14

see this thread for the creation of some BEAUTIFUL panos using the G5 camera..

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=137417




  
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archosman
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Feb 16, 2006 14:33 as a reply to  @ gardenstate's post |  #15

Here's one I did a few weeks ago. Turned out great. It's comprised of 11 images and stitched through PS2 Photomerge.

http://home.comcast.ne​t/~mp5k/pics/sub.jpg (external link)




  
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