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Thread started 17 Apr 2014 (Thursday) 11:18
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How do you shoot wide open?

 
timrocks311
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Apr 17, 2014 11:18 |  #1

I mean, at aperatures of f1.4 to f2.0 or f2.8, your depth of field is razor thin if you're anywhere close. I see gorgeous portraits wide open with beautiful bokeh. How do you take portraits with a 135L at f2.0? At 10 ft away you DOF is 2". Is the trick to stand really far back, relative depending on the lens, and crop in post?


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frugivore
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Apr 17, 2014 11:22 |  #2

For people photography, f/2.8 and below are best used for full body shots. That way, there is much more depth of field. When you get closer to the subject, stop down to f/5.6 or greater.




  
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gonzogolf
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Apr 17, 2014 11:25 |  #3

timrocks311 wrote in post #16840993 (external link)
I mean, at aperatures of f1.4 to f2.0 or f2.8, your depth of field is razor thin if you're anywhere close. I see gorgeous portraits wide open with beautiful bokeh. How do you take portraits with a 135L at f2.0? At 10 ft away you DOF is 2". Is the trick to stand really far back, relative depending on the lens, and crop in post?

Yes, with the 135L the only time I shoot wide open is when I am back far enough that I get sufficient DOF to have the entire face sharp. That lens works great for backing up to full body length distance and giving you a nice slice of sharp focus in between a blurred foreground and background. You get an almost 3D effect. For closer half body or less shots you have to be careful not to get the shot where the eyes are infocus but the nose isnt because of shallow DOF.




  
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Bracetty
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Apr 17, 2014 11:48 |  #4

gonzogolf wrote in post #16841011 (external link)
Yes, with the 135L the only time I shoot wide open is when I am back far enough that I get sufficient DOF to have the entire face sharp. That lens works great for backing up to full body length distance and giving you a nice slice of sharp focus in between a blurred foreground and background. You get an almost 3D effect. For closer half body or less shots you have to be careful not to get the shot where the eyes are infocus but the nose isnt because of shallow DOF.

based on this response, it seems the DOF should be covering the entire face rather than just the eyes?


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gonzogolf
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Apr 17, 2014 11:50 |  #5

Bracetty wrote in post #16841069 (external link)
based on this response, it seems the DOF should be covering the entire face rather than just the eyes?

Some people might prefer sharp eyes and blurry nose as an artistic statement, but to me its pointless. I admire a blurred background but if your DOF is so shallow that you cant keep both eyes and focus and well as most of the facial features then its probably going to be lacking as a commercial portrait.




  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Apr 17, 2014 12:27 |  #6

I do not usually shoot wide open with my 400 f2.8, not just because of the too-shallow DOF, but also because the overall sharpness of the images is not quite as good as when I stop down a bit. I want to resolve as much fine detail as possible, and wide open apertures seem to work against that objective.


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Numenorean
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Apr 17, 2014 12:47 |  #7

Just depends. Remember that the 1.2, 1.4, etc. lenses all focus wide open, thus in darker light the focus is much better.


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DC ­ Fan
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Apr 17, 2014 13:20 |  #8

timrocks311 wrote in post #16840993 (external link)
I mean, at aperatures of f1.4 to f2.0 or f2.8, your depth of field is razor thin if you're anywhere close. I see gorgeous portraits wide open with beautiful bokeh. How do you take portraits with a 135L at f2.0? At 10 ft away you DOF is 2". Is the trick to stand really far back, relative depending on the lens, and crop in post?


Here's the process. With a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens, I set the camera to aperture priority, choose f/2.8, point the lens at the subject and then push the shutter button.

Then, images such as these come out of the camera.

IMAGE: http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r601/kevinlillard/04172014c/20111030a0086_zps8ca26ca8.jpg

IMAGE: http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r601/kevinlillard/04172014c/20110827a0911_zps454f13d1.jpg

IMAGE: http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r601/kevinlillard/04172014c/2013-08-25a-0164_zpsa4b37684.jpg

I've found nothing difficult about it. These sample images came from three 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses from three manufacturers. It seem that the equipment works well enough that there's no great challenge.



  
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Bracetty
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Apr 17, 2014 13:52 |  #9

Im shooting completely manual, no af on lens. Can you elaborate a bit more, I don't have that luxury :)


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bacchanal
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Apr 17, 2014 14:01 |  #10

DC Fan wrote in post #16841365 (external link)
Here's the process. With a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens, I set the camera to aperture priority, choose f/2.8, point the lens at the subject and then push the shutter button.

:lol:


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mike_311
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Apr 17, 2014 14:24 |  #11

don't focus and recompose


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timrocks311
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Apr 17, 2014 15:06 |  #12

gonzogolf wrote in post #16841078 (external link)
Some people might prefer sharp eyes and blurry nose as an artistic statement, but to me its pointless. I admire a blurred background but if your DOF is so shallow that you cant keep both eyes and focus and well as most of the facial features then its probably going to be lacking as a commercial portrait.

Yeah, certainly I would want the entire face sharp. At the closer distances I'm usually at, I have to stop down to f4 or f5.6 to get the face sharp, but them loose the nice blurry background. I'll get in the habit of standing back more.


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archer1960
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Apr 17, 2014 15:11 |  #13

Bracetty wrote in post #16841069 (external link)
based on this response, it seems the DOF should be covering the entire face rather than just the eyes?

Only you (and your subject, if they're paying you) can decide what needs to be in focus. When *I* see a portrait, or have one taken of myself, I want to see the entire face in focus, maybe back to the ears. If that requires either backing up, or closing down the aperture, so be it.


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kf095
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Apr 17, 2014 15:32 as a reply to  @ archer1960's post |  #14

At f1.2 I use single AF point and place it exactly where focus needs to be.
AI Servo AF mode.


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tonylong
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Apr 17, 2014 17:09 |  #15

timrocks311 wrote in post #16840993 (external link)
I mean, at aperatures of f1.4 to f2.0 or f2.8, your depth of field is razor thin if you're anywhere close. I see gorgeous portraits wide open with beautiful bokeh. How do you take portraits with a 135L at f2.0? At 10 ft away you DOF is 2". Is the trick to stand really far back, relative depending on the lens, and crop in post?

The wider the aperture, the more care you want to take, first in analyzing the scene/subject, and determining what output you want with it, then carefully focusing and shooting to get that result.

There is no "magic" to the ultra-wide apertures, but it does take that careful approach.

For subjects at a suitable distance, f/2.8 can give great results, in fact, even a "super" f/1.2 lens can give enough workable depth-of-field, but again that's at a "distance" that you factor in. For a lot of my shooting, though, I'm not trying to maximize "background blur", but I look to get the subject properly focused, whether I'm shooting with f/2.8 or (more commonly) f/4-f/5.6!


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How do you shoot wide open?
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