The quadra killer AKA Cheetahstand CL-600

Very nice!! No teasers of the light????

BamPhoto wrote in post #17552226
Very nice!! No teasers of the light????

Is this what you want

Forgot a side

Nice! Almost drove to Texas to get one early.......

same plug on top as the 360?

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #17552971
same plug on top as the 360?

No this plug is twice the size

jwillieafghan wrote in post #17554982
definitely a quadra killer ./ good stuff

Killing them softly....

not doing much since they aren't even for sale yet

I never had to worry about the ones from Cheetahstand. You must be talking about the Godox or other company version since your not one of the 4 beta testers for Edward.

You can put a heavier bolt/screw in or get a spigot with a flat side. If you are working in really windy situations you can use lines like for a tent for the down corners of the softbox and the top of the lightstand.

abbadon31 wrote in post #17556319
I never had to worry about the ones from Cheetahstand. You must be talking about the Godox or other company version since your not one of the 4 beta testers for Edward.

Hail hail to the beta testers.....and now on a serious note. Thanks to beta testers input and also from numerous owners of this kit Godox improved this flash kit.

jwillieafghan wrote in post #17556253
Has the CL-600 head been upgraded on the way it mounts to a lightstand... I found that the little screw would not hold up with a modifier in the wind (it moved all kind of ways). Also on a boom with a beauty dish I would really have to crank the screw down to keep it from turning on me? CURIOUS ./

Most threaded bolts are made with a rolled thread (as opposed to one cut from the round stock). This leaves a rim round the end of the bolt which doesn't get much grip on the curved spigot at all - just 2 very small places instead of the whole end of the bolt as we may expect. Simple solution to this, which may cure your rotating problem, is to dress the end of the bolt flat with a file. (Run 2 nuts onto the thread, back one up to the end then tighten the 2nd to hold 1st in place flush with the end of the bolt. Remember to lightly skim off the very thin end of the thread before you cut yourself on it!) That way, you have the whole end of the bolt bearing on the spigot instead of just 2 diametrically opposed spots on the rim of the thread which are vastly smaller than you'd expect.

While you have the file in your hands, you might as well file a flat on the bearing surface of the spigot as well so that the full flat end of the bolt bears on it. Two minutes work and you don't even need a vice, it's all perfectly feasible handheld. It'd be better if spigots were made octagonal in cross-section rather than round, but therein lies another story altogether.

"Really cranking the screw down", as you describe, is merely overcoming the inbuilt failings of the rolled thread to bear fully on the spigot by biting into the soft spigot material (usually aluminium or brass). Taken to extremes, it's perfectly possible to wind the head off the bolt and then you've a problem unscrewing it at all, especially if someone hasn't put the Mole Grips back where they belong. (Yep, been there....done that...etc)
An ounce of precaution.........etc

I've experienced this rotating problem in the past with heavy monobloc strobes / big softboxes when cantilevered off the side of stands or angled on boom arms and the 'trim-it-with-a-file' method has cured everything thus far (up to a 6ft x 4ft fishfryer - I haven't used anything bigger for decades now)

mmmfotografie wrote in post #17556345
You can put a heavier bolt/screw in or get a spigot with a flat side. If you are working in really windy situations you can use lines like for a tent for the down corners of the softbox and the top of the lightstand.

Nice, bright orange paracord or shockcord works well and saves that tiny bit of base-over-apex-gymnastics when you (inevitably) trip over the guyline. Mind you, this is one way of differentiating between mere amateurs and consummate professionals - the professional will always save the camera-in-hand at the expense of themselves (Yep, done that as well - had the bruises to prove it )

mmmfotografie wrote in post #17556361
Hail hail to the beta testers.....and now on a serious note. Thanks to beta testers input and also from numerous owners of this kit Godox improved this flash kit.

Godox send them out with their stock parts. Cheetahstand changes out the handles and knobs with metal version, thus the reason for my answer. The godox head comes with a plastic handle (non ratchet) and plastic star screw spigot lock screw. Edward has them changed out in the warehouse to all metal with a ratchet handle.

abbadon31 wrote in post #17556697
Godox send them out with their stock parts. Cheetahstand changes out the handles and knobs with metal version, thus the reason for my answer. The godox head comes with a plastic handle (non ratchet) and plastic star screw spigot lock screw. Edward has them changed out in the warehouse to all metal with a ratchet handle.

Godox is saving at the wrong end and I would the shop I am buying with to replace those for really usable knobs and handles at no expense for me. Star nobs are only usable to hold umbrellas.