Need advice on possibly getting a 24-70 2.8 zoom

I'm an amateur photographer. The only times I don't shoot for "myself" so to speak is when I volunteer to do events. These have ranged from big company functions in hotel ballrooms to a relative's b-day party.

I've been using my 24-105 with a 430ex with great success most of the time. But I've also encountered situations where the room is just too large with ceilings way too high to effectively bounce flash. So I'm left relying on f/4 and my 6D's high ISO capabilities. I've tried to solve this issue with prime lenses, but I found it just doesn't work out well for me when shooting events. I like the versatility of a zoom.

So I'm thinking at this point to get what I want I need to use a 2.8 zoom. However, this also presents some compromises. I love the long end of my 24-105. It allows me to take shots without being too obtrusive, so I end up getting a lot of shots in the 80-100 range. And thanks to IS I can shoot shutter speed as low as 1/50 as long as my subjects are still.

I'm doing this non-paid, so adding a lot of gear is not an option (so don't suggest another body with a 70-200 2.8 and a body with a 24-70 2.8. I know that's ideal but not realistic for me).

The options I'm considering are:

(1) Getting the Tamron 28-75. It's inexpensive, and I'll keep that with my 24-105. If it's a venue where I know I can effectively use flash, i'll just take the 24-105. If I can't use flash, I'll just take the 28-75 and zoom with my feet.

(2) Save a bit, replace 24-105 with Tamron 24-70.

(3) Save a bit more, replace 24-105 with 24-70ii.

So which of these 3 options sounds the best?

The Dark Knight wrote in post #16906994
I'm an amateur photographer. The only times I don't shoot for "myself" so to speak is when I volunteer to do events. These have ranged from big company functions in hotel ballrooms to a relative's b-day party.

I've been using my 24-105 with a 430ex with great success most of the time. But I've also encountered situations where the room is just too large with ceilings way too high to effectively bounce flash. So I'm left relying on f/4 and my 6D's high ISO capabilities. I've tried to solve this issue with prime lenses, but I found it just doesn't work out well for me when shooting events. I like the versatility of a zoom.

So I'm thinking at this point to get what I want I need to use a 2.8 zoom. However, this also presents some compromises. I love the long end of my 24-105. It allows me to take shots without being too obtrusive, so I end up getting a lot of shots in the 80-100 range. And thanks to IS I can shoot shutter speed as low as 1/50 as long as my subjects are still.

I'm doing this non-paid, so adding a lot of gear is not an option (so don't suggest another body with a 70-200 2.8 and a body with a 24-70 2.8. I know that's ideal but not realistic for me).

The options I'm considering are:

(1) Getting the Tamron 28-75. It's inexpensive, and I'll keep that with my 24-105. If it's a venue where I know I can effectively use flash, i'll just take the 24-105. If I can't use flash, I'll just take the 28-75 and zoom with my feet.

(2) Save a bit, replace 24-105 with Tamron 24-70.

(3) Save a bit more, replace 24-105 with 24-70ii.

So which of these 3 options sounds the best?

Well you can get a canon 24-70 version 1 its petty cheap, I am using version II if you can afford it version 2 is the better lens

I'd go for the option 2 (Tamron 24-70) because it also gives you the versatility of having f/2.8 and stabilization since you mention that's what you like about the 24-105.

golf88 wrote in post #16907007
I'd go for the option 2 (Tamron 24-70) because it also gives you the versatility of having f/2.8 and stabilization since you mention that's what you like about the 24-105.

Yea, found out I just missed a sale on those too. If I can afford to, do you think I should keep the 24-105 along with this, or would that be redundant?

N2bnfunn wrote in post #16906998
Well you can get a canon 24-70 version 1 its petty cheap, I am using version II if you can afford it version 2 is the better lens

I am tempted by that. Judging by all the great IQ shots I see from that lens and what I like to shoot, I think that might be the only lens I ever need for my Canon system.

Just a few ideas to bounce off you...

Tamron/Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 - Typically are cheaper than the Canon version
Canon 135mm f2.0 - You said you typical shoot in that range granted its on the higher end.

My initial thought is Option #1. If you get rid of your 24-105mm, your max reach is 75mm with or without flash so you'll be foot zooming regardless.

The Dark Knight wrote in post #16907010
Yea, found out I just missed a sale on those too. If I can afford to, do you think I should keep the 24-105 along with this, or would that be redundant?

I personally think it would be redundant to keep both even if you could afford to since you'd essentially only be keeping the 24-105 for the 70-105mm gap; anything from 24-70 would likely be better handled by the Tamron. You could sell the 24-105 to fund a Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 or a Canon 70-200 f/4 perhaps?

I actually had the 24-105 but sold it a few years ago and have since moved to the Tamron 24-70 and am quite pleased. Although there are a couple things to caution you on for the Tamron:

1) The zoom ring rotates in the opposite direction as Canon's does (you'll probably get used to it but just a fair warning).

2) I'm not quite happy with the image quality at 70mm wide open so I tend to only use this focal length when I can stop down to f/4 or f/5.6 ideally. This might be an important consideration for you if you think you'll have a tendency to use the 70mm length quite often.

Hope that helps!

I bought the 24-70 f/2.8L II but I'm going to keep my trusty 24-105. To versatile to give up.

What situation and settings exactly are your flash not cutting it? What flash are you using? Are you modifying the flash at all? A 580ex is pretty powerful at ISO 6400 f4 and that should be pretty clean on a 6D.

I wouldn't bother with the 28-75, but the 24-70s would be a help. Have you thought about getting a 35/2 IS and 85/1.8 combo or for more money the Sigma 35/1.4 and 85/1.4 combo?

FEChariot wrote in post #16907410
What situation and settings exactly are your flash not cutting it? What flash are you using? Are you modifying the flash at all? A 580ex is pretty powerful at ISO 6400 f4 and that should be pretty clean on a 6D.

I wouldn't bother with the 28-75, but the 24-70s would be a help. Have you thought about getting a 35/2 IS and 85/1.8 combo or for more money the Sigma 35/1.4 and 85/1.4 combo?

Primes are not working out for this style of shooting for me. 430ex, I was in a massive hotel ballroom the other day and I really couldn't bounce the flash anywhere, and didn't want to do direct flash. I really felt like that extra stop of light could help.

If you can't bounce the flash use it direct with a light modifier on it.. Not ideal but better then nothing

The Dark Knight wrote in post #16907472
Primes are not working out for this style of shooting for me. 430ex, I was in a massive hotel ballroom the other day and I really couldn't bounce the flash anywhere, and didn't want to do direct flash. I really felt like that extra stop of light could help.

A 580ex2 or 600rt will give the extra stop. Also if you try a Rogue Flashbender to fill some flash back to your subject, it might make a big difference for you and not look like direct flash that bad. Even a cheap 3x5" index card attached to the flash with a rubber band as a make shift bounce card might help a ton.

And forgive me if you already know this, but increasing your ISO increases the effective power of your flash. Same with opening the aperture.

Not to put a dampener on your lens GAS, but have you considered an off camera flash cord to handhold your flash away from you in those situations where you can't bounce? A lot cheaper than a 24-70 2.8.

That being said, I have Tamron 24-70 2.8 VC on my 6d and like the combo. I second golf88's comment above about the slight drop in sharpness wide open at 70mm. No problem when you use flash though (assuming you are not shooting wide open), and any noticeable difference disappears by about f4.