60D users, friends and their random OT B.S. (III)

Shooting tri-x at 1600 is one of my favourites, it gives something you can't get from digital. I just shot a set fot a magazine on pushed tri-x, I'm in issue three my set is called night lights http://www.afterpartym​ag.com the brief was Lo-fi and grain

This is shot on 14 year out of date rollei 400 with my rolleicord, there is no photoshop to the model on this, the neg was just photographed with 5d and inverted and the black point set. Not bad for a sixty year old camera.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/pVMn​5Y

Rock on, Pauly

Wow Pauly. You are now the master of film. I wish I learn the film. I have a Ricoh film camera before but i don't understand what's going on. hehe

I did film but always handed it off to the photomat... Remember those? Back in the 70's.

Jon wrote in post #17418822
OK - time for the basic course in DoF.

As far as the image goes, you don't have "depth of field" (DoF), what you have is "circle of confusion" (CoC), how big a blur you can get and still think you're looking at a point. Because you need to enlarge the image from a cropped body more (1.6x linear) than you do the image from a FF camera, the CoC for your 60D is smaller than the CoC of a 5D3 (by, not surprisingly, 1.6x). The size of the pixels on your sensor don't matter on this. The CoC for a 5D, 6D, 5D2, 5D3 or 5Ds are all the same - 0.03 mm for a standard print size at standard viewing distance. For the same print size from a crop body (anything from a D30 through to a 70D or 7D2, the corresponding CoC is 0.019 mm. That's because you need to enlarge the cropped image more.

But if you want the same framing, you need to move the crop body back, or use a shorter lens. That's where you have to start calculating your DoF. The formula for DoF shows that DoF limits vary as the square of the focal length times the distance. So moving back, your DoF gets bigger. Changing focal lengths doesn't help either; the DoF formula will show you that the hyperfocal distance for a short focal length lens is much closer than that of a longer lens; thus the DoF for that shorter lens, at the same distance to the subject, will be much greater. In fact, with a crop body like the 60D the DoF of a 50 at 10' and the DoF of an 80 at 16' will be almost identical, and deeper than the DoF of the 80 on a FF body at 10', for the same subject framing.

And let's not forget that changing the subject distance between your FF body and crop body, while using the same lens, will change the perspective - so what's in the background (or foreground) will change. If you want the same composition, you'll need to change lenses.

Your first paragraph confused me. Then, I thought about it. Then I got confused, again. Now, however, I am starting to understand

I think it would be better to state that the CoC is like how much of the sensor is OOF vs. what is not. So, the smaller number for CoC should equal larger DoF. It took me a while to wrap my head around what your first paragraph actually 'said'.

my nose is bleeding with Jon. I know how to control it, that's it. haha.

But I'm always happy that Jon is always like an angel watching us. Thanks Jon.

When you're using manual flash or strobe, basically the camera don't know there's a flash or strobe right? is this where the light meter comes handy?

without the light meter, do you just compensate by underexposing?

Pretty much yes vinz, Personly I use a light meter all the time as it enables me to set up a shot quickly. A lot of guys will take a shot and then check the back of the camera adjust the light then take another, nothing wrong with this but I prefer to use a meter.
I have a sekonic 358 which is really good and if your working outside it gives you the percentage of flash to ambiant so you can very quickly set the lights for the effect you want.
The last shot I posted would have been tricky without a meter to get spot on first time as it's film and you only get 12 shots on the roll

thank you Paul. had one already before because of you but I was hard headed i sold it back. my bad. thanks again.

Haha I remember if you really learn how to use one its defininatly an asset to have one in your bag.

Hey Pauly,
Nice to "see" you. You posting film shots give me a bit of an urge to shoot film, but I am definitely trying to ignore that urge.

I have an EOS 630 body that shoots film, I even have a film. I thought to shoot with it to get a feel for the Full Frame. I ignored the thought... Bought the 5D3 for $2700...

Moral of the story?

Film may save you money!...

I have a film rebel lying around here. I could just push a roll through that to kill the urge. The 5diii is on my list right after a new 24-70 2.8.

wait 'til the 5D3 drops when the 5DS/R comes. from what i read, it has the same dynamic range as the 5D3 anyway. same AF system too. 5D3 shoots 6fps...

I am waiting. Although I think the 5ds is for a different set of people than the 5diii. Still I know some will make the leap because it's new.