60D users, friends and their random OT B.S. (III)

It's actually much wider than a 16-35. It's equivalent to 12.8-25.6mm. So it's closer to the new Canon EF 11-24mm F4L USM in terms of FOV.

It's VERY VERY wide. Honestly a bit too wide for my liking, I didn't think I would feel that way but for my purposes I didn't ever really like the pictures that wide.

Keep in mind the Canon EF 11-24mm F4L USM is $2500, so the fact that you can almost match that range of FOV on a crop for the price of the 8-16mm, is pretty spectacular.

MrWho wrote in post #17502281
Hmmm. Looks like the crop version of a 16-35. Would that be an accurate comparison? Any reason to get the 8-16 over something like the STM 10-18, or the Sigma 10-20? I'm seriously considering the 10-18 myself, just not sure how often the UWA will see use.

See below. I am putting in my list the EF 16-35 f4 for the 5D3 but I am not sure when (or if) I will pull the trigger

vertigo235 wrote in post #17502287
It's actually much wider than a 16-35. It's equivalent to 12.8-25.6mm. So it's closer to the new Canon EF 11-24mm F4L USM in terms of FOV.

It's VERY VERY wide. Honestly a bit too wide for my liking, I didn't think I would feel that way but for my purposes I didn't ever really like the pictures that wide.

I like the challenge. There is distinct difference between 8 and 10 mm on the crop

vertigo235 wrote in post #17502289
Keep in mind the Canon EF 11-24mm F4L USM is $2500, so the fact that you can almost match that range of FOV on a crop for the price of the 8-16mm, is pretty spectacular.

Yes it is.

Answering your last question Mr. Who, I think the EFS 10-18 is the one to get because I understand it takes filters and the price is unbeatable. You might want to use a polarizing or ND filter, although in UWA they have their own challenges.

(searching with my phone browser is a headache and after a few tries I'm coming to the 60D thread to ask, or at least get directed to a good discussion on my question)

Very low existing light and long exposures:

Back in my film days I played around with long exposures at night. One was in Washington at about 3am looking over a tarn/pond across a valley and looking at Mt. Rainier, complete with star trails. After I processed it at home (b&w) I found that I could see the whole ground around the water in the picture even though my eyes never did adjust enough to see, pretty much just starlight.

As to digital, I read somewhere about the sensors heating up with long exposures, and also read something about noise issues with super long exposures vs capturing low light scenes with film. So, how long of am exposure can I do with my 60D before I have to be concerned with overheating the sensor (if that is even a concern)? I think the film exposure mentioned before was somewhere between 30 minutes to an hour.

Is this something where I need to get software and start stacking multiple images somehow, or can i go film-mode and just run one long exposure? Maybe I just need to read the manual and find the 60D book I bought when I first got this camera and see if my answers are in there. But it is easier to just ask here. I'm just rambling so I'll shut up now, thanks for any tips or answers or links or search term suggestions.

vertigo235 wrote in post #17502289
Keep in mind the Canon EF 11-24mm F4L USM is $2500, so the fact that you can almost match that range of FOV on a crop for the price of the 8-16mm, is pretty spectacular.

Wow. I believe there are Tokina options (I've heard they're pretty good too) for near that range for cheaper. The Sigma really does look like a good deal for what it does.

MakisM1 wrote in post #17502295
Answering your last question Mr. Who, I think the EFS 10-18 is the one to get because I understand it takes filters and the price is unbeatable. You might want to use a polarizing or ND filter, although in UWA they have their own challenges.

Didn't know about the filters. I was considering it best on price, but I've heard a number of UWA lenses don't like filters. Thanks for the info!

do you think i made it too red?

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rVt3​7W

I think spring has finally arrived.

So here's "goodbye" to the last dying gasp of winter...

Some new toys:

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rVzs​fx

MrWho wrote in post #17502662
Wow. I believe there are Tokina options (I've heard they're pretty good too) for near that range for cheaper. The Sigma really does look like a good deal for what it does.

I'm on my second copy of the Tokina 11-16. For the price, it's a great lens.

treebound wrote in post #17502547
(searching with my phone browser is a headache and after a few tries I'm coming to the 60D thread to ask, or at least get directed to a good discussion on my question)

Very low existing light and long exposures:

Back in my film days I played around with long exposures at night. One was in Washington at about 3am looking over a tarn/pond across a valley and looking at Mt. Rainier, complete with star trails. After I processed it at home (b&w) I found that I could see the whole ground around the water in the picture even though my eyes never did adjust enough to see, pretty much just starlight.

As to digital, I read somewhere about the sensors heating up with long exposures, and also read something about noise issues with super long exposures vs capturing low light scenes with film. So, how long of am exposure can I do with my 60D before I have to be concerned with overheating the sensor (if that is even a concern)? I think the film exposure mentioned before was somewhere between 30 minutes to an hour.

Is this something where I need to get software and start stacking multiple images somehow, or can i go film-mode and just run one long exposure? Maybe I just need to read the manual and find the 60D book I bought when I first got this camera and see if my answers are in there. But it is easier to just ask here. I'm just rambling so I'll shut up now, thanks for any tips or answers or links or search term suggestions.

All this is hearsay, although I threatened, I have never done astro.

a) The sensor captures a lot more information than what our eye can see. You can 'push' a nearly black picture to see it quite clearly (albeit with color distortions and oodles of noise).

b) Astro. I've read that the longer the exposure (for star trails) the more heat generated noise. The camera has a Long Exposure Noise Reduction mode, which in essence takes another 'shot' (a readout on the sensor) which is as long as your shot, but without opening the shutter. In theory, the heat generated noise is very similar if not identical in the black photo, so the camera subtracts this readout from the actual photo, reducing the noise. The downside is that if you shot a 30 min exposure, you have to wait for 30 more minutes before you can take the next shot...

That's why (at least one reason) people stack shots.

A very experienced astro guy who likes to help is the forum member Malveaux. You can send him a PM and you will get more definitive answers.

vinmunoz wrote in post #17502669
do you think i made it too red?

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rVt3​7W Cathy-Thor26 by timobong, on Flickr

No, I like the dark mood. The girl's expression is priceless. You do it in B&W and put a caption 'Berlin, April 1945' and you can sell it!

hahaha thanks Gerry.

Thank you MakisM1, you've given me more to look into and read up on. I haven't focused too much in the astro section since I'm more interested in landscapes and urban type stuff with the star trails more of a background feature. I'll also check out some of Malveaux's postings as well as read a bit more in the astro discussion section. Thank you.

Happy easter everyone....

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rX2H​Jv

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rWYJ​u5

vinmunoz wrote in post #17504302
Happy easter everyone....

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rX2H​Jv upperpark4315-1 by timobong, on Flickr

Happy Easter Vinz. Your Easter Bunny is a bit grey...